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Electrical "issues"

Started by Troy, September 07, 2009, 11:14:58 AM

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Troy

When I got my Charger R/T not much worked very well. Someone in the past attempted to "fix" the problems by switching all the fuses to 30 amp. :eek2: The bulkhead connector appears to have melted a little at some point but still appears intact. I managed to get the exterior lights all working (except the hood signals which are missing the harness) but I'm having problems with the interior lights and gauge cluster. The headlights, high beams, glove box light, and turn signals work so there's definitely power at the switches and inside the car. Neither map light works nor does the radio. Oddly enough, yesterday I noticed that I have a trunk light but I'm not sure if it always worked. Nothing in the gauge cluster itself seems to have power. I swapped out the voltage limiter to a known good one but that had no effect.  Not all of the screws are holding the gauge cluster in so could it be a grounding issue? Maybe the circuit board is fried? I have another cluster but I'd like to know what to test so I don't damage it as well. I also have a spare dash harness (one original and one new) if necessary. I probably have another bulkhead connector too but I will wait for winter before doing any major work.

In addition to what doesn't work, the headlights are bright but seem to flicker at a high rate and only when I'm moving. The car has a rebuilt alternator. It just seems odd to be driving with the constant strobe effect - not in the middle of the beam but more on the edges. I thought at first that something was loose and the lights were bouncing but that doesn't appear to be the case.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

nascarxx29

Ive done alot of electrical work and wiring for years. :Twocents: I would change out the harness versus time spent chasing down the electrical gremlins.And you never know what somebody else did cut old wires run new ones etc .And unforseen issues wires melted together etc you cant see in the wrapped harness.But starting with no power to cluster .The key switch position sends power to the dash circuit board The interior lights as to door opening and dome light map light and radio.Source back to the fusebox for power and distribution.Any pictures of back of fuse box to see what wires are on what circuit.The trunk light gets its feed from the domelight connector.Grounds in the trunk and uses a door jamb type switch to open and close the circuit.The gauge cluster. I check the pins on the circuit board for loose or broken and circuit board tracks for burn spots.Clean up all circuit board grounds and copper bulb sockets contact points.And test gauges with 2  1.5 volt batterys with jumper wires in the correct polarity.And check the amp gauge mounting studs for looseness and dash frame for burnt spots..I did do some worse case scenarios.In the long run change out out the harness



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