Killing my confidence: dipstick tube broke flush with the block

[WH23G3G]

I'm losing confidence in finishing this motor. Another problem keeping from completing this 400. I was going to mount the LH motor mount and noticed the dipstick tube wasn't in far enough for the hole on the dipstick tube bracket to line up with the hole in the motor mount so I lightly tapped in it with my hand and the dipstick tube broke as flush as it could get with the block. It was pretty hard to get the dipstick tube in initially. It came with the chrome oil pan I couldn't use because it was for up to 72's but the tube was the same. How easy are the dipstick tubes suppose to go into the block? I had to tap this one in with a block of wood and a rubber mallet. That's probably why it broke so easy today. Will I be able to even punch it out if I re-remove the oil pan? I've already had to remove the oil pan once to readjust the torque on everything now here's another problem. So I'm going on my 3rd set of oil pan gaskets. Most important what is the best dipstick tube correct for the 400 in 73? This chrome one was cheap, the chrome plating was flakin off already when I put it in.

[Blue Pentastar]

run a screw into the tube big enough to grip the tube inside and then pull out with vice grips. has worked for me before. This is not all that uncommon with the tubes so close to the motor mount.

Hope this helps, by the way they should go in fairly easy if it is the right tube and there isn't one broke off in there.


Mike Schrader

[WH23G3G]

I tried that last night and got fed up with it. I just went ahead and removed the oil pan and windage tray again. Stuck a small flat blade screwdriver and drove it out. It popped right out. It was pretty deep. I'm going to look for a dipstick tube today. I guess there is a difference in quality. The Trans Dapt tube is like $12, the Mopar Performance is like $25, and the original Mopar one is like $60 from Year One. I want to see them all before I buy them. That one that came with that cheap chrome oil pan was so thin I can see why it broke. I imagine the Trans Dapt one is about the same and the Mopar Performance one isn't much better. Any suggesstions? Mine has to have the tabe on the tube to bolt to the motor mount. It doesn't even look like the Mopar Performance one has a tab. I see several on EBAY ranging from $10-$60.

[b5blue]

I got mine from Mancini and it was made in Taiwan! (Not chrome one) The POS was tight going in and I didn't force it all the way down to the "flair". Make sure you get a made in USA one. 

[terrible one]

I've been wondering about the dipstick tubes myself! I got a cheap chrome one (probably TD) and upon initial installation it is definitely going to be a TIGHT fit! I can see why yours broke tweaking it. After this thread I think I'll try to knock mine down a bit with some sandpaper so that it will go into the block easier . . . right now there is no way!

[Back N Black]

I took a little of mine with a mini grinder.

[Dodgecharger74]

try freezing the dip stick tube in freezer then take immediatly to engine and tap in while frozefreezing will reduce the diameter slightly     This is an old machinist trick  works on other press fit bearing  Etc.

[WH23G3G]

I ordered one from Mr. Gasket but I think it's probably made in China too. I looked at some other Chevy and Ford dipstick tubes that were in the store from Mr. Gasket and they were made in China. The Milodon billet steel was too insane of a price at $70 more than the Mopar one from Year One. Hopefully the Mr. Gasket will be slightly better than the TD or Generic one I already had. I'll try those tricks too freezing and/or sanding down to get it to fit. This time I won't bolt on the oil pan until I'm satisfied the dipstick tube is in good.

[TylerCharger69]

try freezing the dip stick tube in freezer then take immediatly to engine and tap in while frozefreezing will reduce the diameter slightly     This is an old machinist trick  works on other press fit bearing  Etc.

   Works well with re-sleeving cylinders as well!!!

[SeattleCharger]

would putting a little motor oil on it help I wonder?

[Steve P.]

I cannot tell you which to buy, but I can tell you that it needs to have a slightly tight fit to keep oil from blowing out around it. Freezing the tube will help, but DO NOT tap or hammer it down from the top of the tube. This will mess up even the best of tubes. There is a ring about an inch above the bottom of the tube that does two things. It gives you a place to safely tap it in and it is the stop so you don't drive it in too far.

1) Clean the tube and the hole it's going into.
2) Freeze the tube.
3) oil the hole.
4) slide the tube in as far as it will go by hand paying attention to where it needs to be to line up with the motor mount bolt.
5) Use a 7/16 open end wrench at the ring to tap it home. (I think it's a 7/16). Try it before freezing the tube. You will be tapping on the side of the open end wrench.
6) Put your oil pan back on with a light slather of grease to help save the gaskets just in case you have to pull it off again for any reason. 

Hope this helps...

[tecmopar]

Similar to Steves way of using an open end wrench, I use a Flare wrench or box wrench of appropiate size and have never had any trouble getting it right, good luck. I did have a tool that I made just for this but the old story, I lent it to someone and now its theirs I guess.

[mopar73]

you could try Lokar.com and see what they have   http://www.lokar.com/interior_pages/engdipstick.htm

[WH23G3G]

I don't know if it was the new Mr. Gasket dipstick tube, oiling the dipstick hole and tube, or the freezing but the new dipstick tube went in without any forcing. It just went in with slight hand pressure and I didn't even have to pound on it with my hand. I also am worried now. Since when I removed the engine originally the dipstick was crushed over the motor mount. But I later found out the small block K-frame was still in the car. Now it has a big block K-frame, they are slightly different but hard to tell just by looking at one and then the other. I took several pictures of the newly installed dipstick and the engine mount on the block. The tube runs right over the back of the spool insert. I'm afraid it might crush again when I drop the engine in. I don't know how much it should move, these are new mounts that were welded into the brackets. Is the dipstick tube suppose to be that close to the mount when installed? It's a 76 400 passenger car block, I don't think they would've changed the dipstick hole. The picture I have is nice and clear but I can't ever get the picture small enough to post here even at the lowest resolution it's still 400kb. So if anyone has had the same problem and could take a look at the pic, let me know. I verified the number on the LH hand motor mount it said 3642815 ASY which is the same number that appears in the 73 Parts catalog under engine front mount insulator for the LH under a 400 W model car. It doesn't even look like I'll be able to get the holes for the long bolt to line up on this mount now that the dipstick is in.

[SeattleCharger]

resize and optimize your photos, you can make them any file size nice and clear,

      I have used this free serif photo working program for years, does lots of stuff, no catch, they send an email once in a great moon for some promotion, that's it.   the SE one is free, not the 9.0

http://www.freeserifsoftware.com/software/PhotoPlus/default.asp

[Nacho-RT74]

Most important what is the best dipstick tube correct for the 400 in 73?

at keast MP unit is not the right one. Is shaped to fit with earlier kind engine mounts, not with spool kind

[greenpigs]

I put mine in the freezer and it went from going about 1/2 in, to droping right to the flared part.

[WH23G3G]

Where can I get a dipstick tube that will fit the engines with spool type mounts? This one definitely has to be for the earlier engines. I'm sure it's going to get crushed once I mount the engine on the K-frame.

[greenpigs]

Year One?

[WH23G3G]

Here it is. This is the one from Mr. Gasket correctly installed. It says OEM 383-440 no years specified. It bolts up to the motor mount bracket like it should. But it is awful close on the back of the spool. I'm not sure that last bolt-to-block will go in easy, I know it can be screwed in but it doesn't tap in real easy because the holes don't line up because of the tube. I don't even know what the correct 73 dipstick tube should look like compared to this. I already checked online and no one has one NOS. Year One is local to me but if it's for a Mopar then they usually don't have it on hand so I don't know if theirs is correct either.

[Steve P.]

That doesn't look like it will be any trouble at all to me. It's rare that a "new to the motor" dipstick drops right in without a bit of tweeking. It's all part of OLD CARS. Bending the bolt tab a bit is nothing. Once the motor mount is tight the dipstick tube is also tight. No motion to worry about.

No worries...........     

[alcusswhen]

I've been wondering about the dipstick tubes myself! I got a cheap chrome one (probably TD) and upon initial installation it is definitely going to be a TIGHT fit! I can see why yours broke tweaking it. After this thread I think I'll try to knock mine down a bit with some sandpaper so that it will go into the block easier . . . right now there is no way!

I like to put mine on the wire brush on my bench grinder and get the chrome off. Then I adjust a crescent wrench to sit on the shoulder of the tube at the block end and tap the tube in by tapping on the wrench with a hammer.

[WH23G3G]

I'm not concerned about the tube going all the way. It is all the way flush with the block to the flange on the dipstick tube. I'm worried about is it too close to the spool on the motor mount. Is it going to crush once I drop in the motor? Year One says they actually have there restoration dipstick tube for the 70+ big blocks in stock so I'll ride up there and take a look at it on Monday to see how different it is. According to the 73 parts catalog the b-bodies 400 and 440 dipstick showed a different part number and the 400 had the tab on it. It's like $60 versus $17 for this Mr. Gasket dipstick and tube.

[Nacho-RT74]

According to the 73 parts catalog the b-bodies 400 and 440 dipstick showed a different part number and the 400 had the tab on it. It's like $60 versus $17 for this Mr. Gasket dipstick and tube.

Interesting, never noticed that in the past!!!, is true, both diff PNs

HOWEVER dipstick shows same for both

[WH23G3G]

This is the one from Year One that says it fits later 70+ B/RB. It looks like it's bent pretty much in the center of the dipstick tube rather than just at the top on the chrome dipstick tube I got from Mr. Gasket but I don't know if the tab on this original Chrysler one will meet up with any of the bolts on my motor mount. It looks like the tab may be further down. It sure is a whole lot more at $56 versus $17 for the Mr. Gasket one. What do you'll think? Should I be ok with that chrome one from Mr. Gasket eventhough it's basically touching the spool on the motor mount or go for this Chrysler one? I want to reinstall the oil pan for the good and final time.