Lower Control Arm Color.

[hemi-hampton]

I usually just go with black for lower control arm but the new fad seems to be to try to Duplicate the optional Cosmoline Coating with out actually Cosmoline coating. The Cosmoline coatings I've seen seemed to be sorta orangish maroonish looking. I thought this color I got looked right on. BUT, Do some think it may appear to dark? LEON.

[hemi-hampton]

Looks lighter from this angle. LEON.

[Charger-Bodie]

way too dark.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

This looks about right to me....

[bull]

I've always seen them in gold like what Chris posted. Yours looks like burnt orange.

[hemi-hampton]

Out of like 10 different Articles I got on the subject from past 20 years some show yellowish & some show & say Reddish Brown. I went with Roger Gibsons Advise. His Article shows them Reddish Brown & he calls the color Redish Brown, not yellow or light yellow. Here's a Pic on the Article. These Pictures were scanned, They appear alot darker in the Magazine then the scanned appearance here. LEON.

[Charger-Bodie]

If you are just going to argue that your right , why did you ask about it?.....Ive never seen a FK5 lower control arm,and thats what the stuff you show the pics of ,looks like.

[hemi-hampton]

Not Arguing, Just saying thats what some others looked like. LEON.

[The70RT]

We all know LEON likes FK5 more than most anyway 

[Dodge Don]

If you are just going to argue that your right , why did you ask about it?.....Ive never seen a FK5 lower control arm,and thats what the stuff you show the pics of ,looks like.

Bull said FK5, not Leon. A little less quick draw mcgraw on the 'tude and re-read the post.

I've read the same articles and I personaly went with the more gold look however I wouldn't be surprised if Roger Gibson's version of a reddish brown was in fact closer to correct.

[Charger-Bodie]

If you are just going to argue that your right , why did you ask about it?.....Ive never seen a FK5 lower control arm,and thats what the stuff you show the pics of ,looks like.

Bull said FK5, not Leon. A little less quick draw mcgraw on the 'tude and re-read the post.

I've read the same articles and I personaly went with the more gold look however I wouldn't be surprised if Roger Gibson's version of a reddish brown was in fact closer to correct.

Speaking of quick Draw! I wasnt saying that Leon called it fk5.....I was calling it fk5.

Whether its right or wrong , you missed my point. Leon came on here asking about the color and as soon as people said it was too dark he started defending it. If he is sure its right why is he asking us peon Quick draws?

[maxwellwedge]

I still have a lot of the original Cosmoline showing on some cars and they are on the lighter (goldish) side. When you do them they get darker with every coat of Cosmoline (or a current substitute that I use that looks more like the original stuff than the current Comoline that is for sale). I have seen pics of the darker, reddish color Roger describes on some original cars - I guess it depends on how heavy they were dipped and how clean/shiny the bare metal was to start with.

[hemi-hampton]

I agree, I think the color is to dark myself. I want to redoe it lighter. BUT, If I redo I'll still go for a reddish look instead of yellow or gold just a lighter shade. Also, like a candy the more you apply the darker it gets. Roger say's 12 coats, I'm sure 6 coats will be alot lighter looking then 12 & maybe mine looks more like 16 or 18? I think I'm just going to buy 5 gallons & dip it like factory did. LEON.

[maxwellwedge]

The original stuff was like wax that needed to be heated up - the new stuff is different -  but hey, give it a try and tell us how it turned out.

[hemi-hampton]

Your suppose to warm it up in warm bath water, I think I'll give it a try if I dont go the Aerosol cosmoline route. LEON.

[maxwellwedge]

Here is a little secret for the spray on stuff. Don't buy the stuff Eastwood sells as Cosmoline....buy their Rust Preventative stuff - it looks way more correct. That's what I have been using for 5+ years (and so does RG). But let us know on the dip method. 

[TUFCAT]

I'll chime in with my opinions....

I think it depends on the vendor who supplied the stuff, and the assembly plant where it was built.

In my opinion, I'd probably go with the goldish brown like many restorers have chosen lately.  

Finally, unless you worked at the plant when they were built, its impossible to know for sure. I don't think Roger Gibson even worked at any Chrysler factory, nor has he seen all the "unrestored" cars on the planet.  In most cases, when people started documenting these factoy correct finishes on cars, time on Earth and exposure to elements would've already greatly varied the shade over time. Basically......goldish-brown with a lot of dirt can become reddish.  

I was told that the "real" color was closer to the wax ring under a toilet.    My control arms are the color of "crud" around the toilet. 

[hemi-hampton]

Supossably A.O. Smith a Illinois based Locamotive supply was the Vendor, I don't think Chrysler actually coated them. LEON.

[maxwellwedge]

Supossably A.O. Smith a Illinois based Locamotive supply was the Vendor, I don't think Chrysler actually coated them. LEON.

Yup - they were a vendor.

[b5blue]

I bought an upper "steering column housing puller" (the tool for that job in FSM) and it came NOS wrapped in brown wax paper and covered in that stuff, his dark color is very close. The patina your trying to reproduce, is it new or 40 year aged?

[The70RT]

I don't think mine had that stuff on them? Mine had black paint on all the areas.

[b5blue]

Me too.

[bull]

If you are just going to argue that your right , why did you ask about it?.....Ive never seen a FK5 lower control arm,and thats what the stuff you show the pics of ,looks like.

Bull said FK5, not Leon.

I said FK5? I don't even know what the FK FK5 is.

[TUFCAT]

I'd say FK it, and just paint them black...   

I've been under my car since posting on this thread, and the control arms on my Coronet are definitely painted black - - under the 43 year old crud.

[bull]

I'd say FK it, and just paint them black...   

I've been under my car since posting on this thread, and the control arms on my Coronet are definitely painted black - - under the 43 year old crud.

Maybe they started out black with a coat of cosmoline that wore off.

[dangina]

any confirmation on it being gold or reddish brown?

[maxwellwedge]

You can still see some original Cosmoline towards the right side. 13,000 mile 69 B-body.

[lexxman]

Ok this is just the thread I was looking for.I just started cleaning up my lower arm today and was wondering about color.Now is the whole arm coated or not? I have seen some pictures of arms that are 3/4 or so coated.I may be sending them out to get coated throught my work.

[The70RT]

Ok this is just the thread I was looking for.I just started cleaning up my lower arm today and was wondering about color.Now is the whole arm coated or not? I have seen some pictures of arms that are 3/4 or so coated.I may be sending them out to get coated throught my work.

Depends if are going the cosmoline look or painting them black. Either way you need to cover the whole arm. Some came black so you would paint the whole arm black. If your going with the cosmoline look you need to paint it with something that simulates bare metal then do the 3/4 dip look with a color no one is really set on (see previous page). It all depends on what you are looking for or how your arm was finished if going back to the original look.

[maxwellwedge]

Here is the "cosmoline" treatment showing the "dip" line.

[472 R/T SE]

Under crud on mine was cosmoline.  As mentioned the cosmoline will have dip lines.  I don't know about any other colors & how they were covered whether there's a dip line.
I guess mine's on the dark side from the second pic. 




We used some Chebby color on mine.  I've heard the Kryon battery protector is pretty close.  As a matter of fact Troy H. tried it with favorable results.



My buddy Kori Alexander also mentions using furniture varnish with varying results.

[TUFCAT]

I dug up my "stashed" 1967 Coronet Control arms.  

These control arms came from a 1967 Coronet R/T.

I bought the entire front suspension (from the K-frame to the 11-inch drums) basically for these mint original control arms with factory sway bar and brackets.

I had them hot tanked and degreased, but you can still see some remnants of the original black paint that wasn't totally removed in the process.

My 1967 Coronet also has black painted control arms.

I'm just sayin'.

[The70RT]

I dug up my "stashed" 1967 Coronet Control arms. These came from another 1967 Coronet (not mine).

This control arm came from a 1967 Coronet R/T. I bought the entire front suspension (from the K-frame to the 11-inch drums) basically for these mint original control arms with factory sway bar and brackets.

I had them hot tanked and degreased, but you can still see some remnants of the original black paint that wasn't totally removed in the process.

My 1967 Coronet also has black painted control arms.

I'm just sayin'.

Well at least that will (maybe) convince the sceptics 

[TUFCAT]

Black painted control arms are not only "urban legend" - they really did exist.

My guess is that Chrysler initially used paint for a better rust preventative versus cosmoline.

Then possibly the vendors changed, or cost structure changed.... and it became more cost effective to use cosmoline vs. painting.

Of course, this is only a guess.

For whatever reason, everyone still wants to see cosmoline these days...

I'd vote to duplicate the way they the factory did it for the year/model/plant.

[lexxman]

 Depends if are going the cosmoline look or painting them black. Either way you need to cover the whole arm. Some came black so you would paint the whole arm black. If your going with the cosmoline look you need to paint it with something that simulates bare metal then do the 3/4 dip look with a color no one is really set on (see previous page). It all depends on what you are looking for or how your arm was finished if going back to the original look.
[/quote]

Ya I like the cosmoline look.It is a nice contrash with the black of the k member and other parts. And I am going original,my car will be a driver,but a very nice driver. The previous owner painted the whole underside black so I don't know what they were.

[The70RT]

Too bad I didn't take any close up pics before I did mine. If I would have known it was such a rare incedent I would have.

[bull]

Regarding the gold/reddish brown debate, has anyone stopped to think maybe cosmoline starts out gold and turns to reddish brown after like 20+ years of use?

[lexxman]

That could be,any I have seen ,have all been black(or rust).

[lexxman]

Hey ,sometimes I'm I little slow.I recently found out the cosmoline is waxy(I didn't know that),so wouldn't that catch allot of road dirt?

[CDN72SE]

Yes, that's why most of the people who drive their cars use different coatings to simulate the look and don't have to deal with the dirt build up on the cosmoline.

[elacruze]

well here's my $.02-

The Cosmoline was applied over bare metal. that bare metal had the opportunity to rust a little (or a lot) before the application, so the color would be 'clean grease over rust' and there is no precise shade.

FWIW I agree that Leon's photo looks too dark to me for a correct shade, but hey there's no point in arguing about correct shade unless you actually put cosmoline over the arm. Any shade of paint at all is incorrect, no? Any shade of paint between clean metal and medium rust would be accurate.

[lexxman]

Hey there.I think I will Zinc plate them.My Boss is going to get them plated for me(we get stuff plated all the time.).

[The70RT]

Hey there.I think I will Zinc plate them.My Boss is going to get them plated for me(we get stuff plated all the time.).

That or paint them black like some of them came anyway....then it would be more correct then the fake cosmoline look. 

[lexxman]

Ya,I did think about that too.It would make things simpler.

[femtnmax]

Here are a couple pics of a NOS lower control arm.  The color is probably darker due to shelf life dust.  On the close up pic the reflection lighter color is not the darkness of the actual part, but the run shows how cosmoline thickness definitely darkens the part.

[pipeliner]

Just finished my version of the cosmoline LCA,s.I had new LCA bushings installed and somehow just noticed I have play in one my LCA,s.Wonder what happened.Did the guy not get it pressed in far enough?Im so pissed right now I could bite nails.

[resq302]

When I redid the bushings in my LCA's I still had play in there as well and though the same thing.  When I got them installed, the play was gone, probably cause they are under tension from the twisting effect of the torsion bar.

[pipeliner]

I would think that the slop in there wouldnt be right.My other LCA is tight as a jug.I just talked to some guys over at Moparts and you are right.

[472 R/T SE]

Just finished my version of the cosmoline LCA,s.I had new LCA bushings installed and somehow just noticed I have play in one my LCA,s.Wonder what happened.Did the guy not get it pressed in far enough?Im so pissed right now I could bite nails.

Looks good, may I ask what you used?

[pipeliner]

Thanks Mike,I used just what you posted,Krylon Battery Protector.I bought some whenever some of you guys were discussing it over at the 70 Registry.

[lexxman]

Hey,I`ve noticed the on some arm the sway bat mount is near the end and other is in the middle.I quess there are two different types?

[resq302]

Yes, the ones all the way on the ends towards the lower ball joint is up to 1969.  The ones with the mount for the sway bar located in more towards the center are 1970 and up.

[lexxman]

Yes, the ones all the way on the ends towards the lower ball joint is up to 1969.  The ones with the mount for the sway bar located in more towards the center are 1970 and up.

Well you learn something new every day now don't ya.

[lexxman]

Bye the way.The part in the middle of the arm with the adjusting screw.Should that move freely?

[pipeliner]

Yes it will if you have the LCA out of the car but it shouldnt if you have any pressure on the torsion bars.

[lexxman]

Hey,there done! I just finished off the re-do on the lower arms.I had them zinc plated,its not 100% correct,but it looks good.

[bull]

Nice. I probably wouldn't go that route myself but it'll look good for a while. What's with the yellow ends on those tabs?

[lexxman]

I'm not sure why.But I saw some pictures with the tabs dipped in yellow paint. I liked the way it looked . I got them plated for free,so its all go. My wife is wondering why I'm going through all this trouble for parts you wont see unless your under the car. like they say the devil is in the details.

[resq302]

The yellow paint that you saw was probably an inspection mark.  I have seen others orange and some a light blue.  They really were not dipped but had that color paint dabbed on and usually ended up with some small runs or brush marks.

[maxwellwedge]

Never seen yellow - Maybe on some cars without sway bars or light duty suspension? Dunno

Orange and/or blue are on all my cars.

Sometimes they do look dipped.

Here is one car with an orange and a blue one.....about 1/2 way down the page.

http://www.moparaction.com/Article/GTX-CELLENT/GTX-CELLENT.html

[resq302]

Looking at the underside of the engine pic where they talk about the bell housing and clutch fork boot, looks like the starter has orange paint on it indicating that the starter would have been on when the engine was painted???  I thought they were installed after along with the engine accessories like fan and alternator.

[maxwellwedge]

Looking at the underside of the engine pic where they talk about the bell housing and clutch fork boot, looks like the starter has orange paint on it indicating that the starter would have been on when the engine was painted???  I thought they were installed after along with the engine accessories like fan and alternator.

That is correct - The Hemi Direct Drive Starters (66-69  4-speed only) were installed before the engine.....Hemi Engines only.

[lexxman]

I see , well I guess the amount of paint would have depended on how wet the brush was.
I see in the picture one side is blue the other yellowy(orange-ish). This is defiantly a learn as you go hobby.

[ht4spd307]

i know this is an old post but does that battery protector dry hard or is it like a wax

[HeavyFuel]

The yellow paint that you saw was probably an inspection mark.  I have seen others orange and some a light blue.  They really were not dipped but had that color paint dabbed on and usually ended up with some small runs or brush marks.

Mine.....orange and red one side.....just orange on the other

[HeavyFuel]

The real Cosmoline works great...but is expensive.   I used it with nice results.  (various pics of mine attached)

From the website:

Cosmoline Rust-Veto 342 comes in the form of a medium-thick liquid (like corn syrup) which can be applied by brushing, dipping or spraying.  Once Cosmoline Rust-Veto 342 is applied (wet), the solvent in the solution will flash off (evaporate) and will yield a dry-to-the-touch, amber in color, translucent wax-like coating that will give you the long-term rust/corrosion protection you're looking for....even in the harshest, most corrosive of environments (marine environments, extreme humidity & weather, etc.)