383 intake manifold

[68MoparCharger]

what's better for street driving and racing on a 383, a 6 pack setup or the mopar m1? I figure that the 6 pack might be better for low-end torque and m1 better for high end horsepower. I could be wrong though, i've never worked with 6 packs before.

[firefighter3931]

The 6-pack intake is a dualplane and will make lots more torque at lower engine speeds. Unless you've got deep gears and a loose converter, go with the dual plane.

Ron

[68MoparCharger]

I was thinking about going with 3.73 rear end gears, and the Keisler 5-speed, 550 horsepower version, which has 3.27 1st gear ratio, is that low enough to make a difference in your opinion?

[firefighter3931]

I was thinking about going with 3.73 rear end gears, and the Keisler 5-speed, 550 horsepower version, which has 3.27 1st gear ratio, is that low enough to make a difference in your opinion?

Yep, that's a lot of torque multiplication...it should work great. The thing to consider is how hard this engine will be spun : The 6-pack will make excellent power to 6k and it will make much better torque down low where the engine spends most of it's time. 383's have a shorter stroke and don't build the same kind of bottom end grunt that a 440 would. For that type of application you want a manifold that helps bottom end power and doesn't take it away. A single plane is more of a race piece and moves the powerband up significantly. With a heavy car you need to build as much torque as possible as soon as possible, off idle. This gets the car moving and makes throttle response snappier.

The one exception to the single plane "rule of thumb" is the Holley Street Dominator. It works very well at all rpm and won't rob you of too much bottom end power while still pulling real hard up top.

Ron

[68MoparCharger]

it seems that the 6 pack would make more sense for my application, which 6 pack would you use? I've seen that edelbrock and mopar have 6 pack intakes. And which carburetor setup would you use(i.e. demon, holley)?

[firefighter3931]

The edelbrock and mopar 6-pack manifolds are pretty much the same....both are dual planes. I sugest that you purchase the whole kit from one supplier. That way you get all the carbs, linkage, fuel lines, air cleaner assembly etc....

As for carbs....holley is the way to go.

Ron

[cudaken]

 I love the looks and sound of a 6-Pack. When in tuned makes good power. If you are looking for the show 68MoparCharger then do the 6-Pack. But dollar for dollar it is a waste of money with the $1800.00 for the intake and carbs. 

68MoparCharger, does your Charger have a 2 speed or 3 speed wiper motor? 6-pack air cleaner will not clear the 2 speed wiper motor with out hacking up the air cleaner. 3 speed wiper motor will requier the motor it self, linkage that is under the dash and new swtich. I was told I think by Chris that the mounting point is driffrent and 3 speed will not bolt up to the linkage.

If you are just looking for power, I think you could spend the $1800.00 in a better places. If you are looking for show and power, 6-pack.

                                    Cuda Ken 

[68MoparCharger]

I'm mostly looking for power, this car is going to go to only one show, and is going to be used for street and a little strip, i'm looking for power that i can use to pretty much beat up on the little mustang, camaro, and import punks in my town. I want to be running somewhere next to 12 or 13's and i'm also looking for about 500-550 horsepower, because the keisler 5 speed with the high 1st gear ratio is only supposed to hold up to 550 hp. And hopefully somewhere around 600 ft lbs of torque. I would also like something that can burnout easily, but is easy to control while racing.  I'm also going to put the 6 pack hood scoop on the car.  I'm not sure whether it is a 2 or 3 speed, the button on my car has 3 positions, yet will stall on the 3rd (fastest) position. I would say that money is not a real big deal, i would like to get a good deal for the money, but if 6 pack is great for my application then i would spend the money. I was also thinking about getting the magnum roller kit k23-741-9 it says that its good from 3000-6200 rpm, and is supposed to be driveable and produce great torque, have you heard about this cam, or used it? I'm going to rebuild the whole engine so I figure I might be able to have some fun with it. I really don't need it for highway driving, so cruising should be under 60mph. What do you think I should spend the $1800 on instead?

[cudaken]

 When I said show, I did not mean at a car show. But the looks of peoples faces when you poop the hood. If you really think you need 500 HP (very few do) spend the money on the heads and a 440.

Bottom line all the power comes from the heads, there is a reason the Hemi is king and it is not due to 426 CI's.

I have to ask, but what kind of back ground do you have with HP cars? Do your own work, farm it out, have ran at the track, lowest ET you have ran? Reason I ask is it well help us guide you on your quest. Also what is your budget as well? We are real good at spending other's peoples money.

                                      Cuda Ken

[firefighter3931]

I think you're asking alot to get 500hp out of a 383. That's really pushing it for a "streetable" 440. It's not so much the hp that you want as it is the torque. Build a 440 with a set of aluminum heads for pump gas and you'll be much happier in the end. 

Ron

[Chryco Psycho]

Check with 6 Pack Performance in New Mexico for a complete 6 pack set up

[68MoparCharger]

Hey, thanks for the info, this is my first hp car i'm building myself so i'm kinda experimenting and the information/opinions, it really helps, that's why I like this site.

[cudaken]

 With this being your first I would set your goal's way lower. Say a ture 375 HP, with the set up that will get you around 13.2's on the track.

I know, that sure does not sound fast. But drive a ture 13.2 car things happen real fast. Hit a wet spot or gravel under power? There is a reason there is not that many left! 13's you will be kicking ass 95% of the time. But there is all wise someone faster so get over that now.

                                Cuda Ken, death wish is over. I just want to drive and smile

[68MoparCharger]

I've driven plenty of cars with 400 or 500+ horsepower, this is my first time owning and building one though. I can hear what you are saying, but i've had enough problems with sliding and running into stuff, things of that nature, to be smart enough to not drive like that. So, around 400 will get about 13's? That sounds good to me, if I started with the 440 there would be enough engine to get more power also. So i'll look into getting myself a 440 that would be here in the coming spring. Thanks for the tips.

[cudaken]

 Now you are thinking. When you are ready to bulid, spend the mony in Cubic Inches and Head's and 400 HP will come easy.

By the way, most people lie or have no clue to what HP there engines really make. My stock 440 makes 750 HP

                        Cuda Ken

[68MoparCharger]

lol, yeah, I bought my charger about 6 months ago with the engine like it is now, i believe it has fried piston rings because the compression is 1/3 of what it is supposed to be...can't remember the exact number i took it a while ago. so i believe it is pushing something around 100 horsepower.  just trying to get it to work well in terms of weatherstripping, steering, suspension, and brakes. Then i will make it high performance. I believe that the necessities should be taken care of first, instead of having alot of horsepower and not being able to stop or control it.

[Headrope]

Do not underestimate the power of the dork side.   Read a few books, spend some time on the computer and a few bucks online. You just might find that the 383 aint all that shabby.

If you want to go gonzo do the 440 and head thing. But before spending $1800 just on a sixpack setup you might consider what that money and reducing chamber volume in your stock heads could have done to the motor you already had.

For your consideration: http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/155_0209_resto/

Tech Articles  
383 Resto to Rad
Bolt-ons add 117 horsepower to a stock 383

[cudaken]

Last month we bolted together a 383, built as true to original 383 Magnum/Commando specs as practical. Inside, our 383 benefited from Jim Grubbs' blueprint-quality machining, moly rings for increased bore life and seal, and modern KB hypereutectic pistons. The block was milled for "zero deck," which will eventually give us an ideal quench clearance if aftermarket closed-chamber heads are employed.

The stock #906 heads were milled .020-inches to compensate for the thicker replacement head gasket, thereby reducing chamber volume from the stock 87 cc to 83 cc. The deep valve notches in the KB pistons (6 cc) required to run long-duration high-lift cams, coupled with the 84cc open-chamber heads and the 383's short stroke, gave us a compression ratio of 9.2:1. This compares to 9.7:1, which would have been achieved with stock-style flat-top pistons with no valve reliefs.
________________________________________________________________________________


Head rope, fun reading but I think it is a ringer. Only part that bothers me is they call it stock, that is a race prep 383 if you ask me. Numbers where impressive and makes it good reading, and that sells more magazines and makes them more money.

Call me a sceptic, I am.

What would be real good reading would be if they bulit twin 383's, base line both engines on the dyno so we know both HP's and hope there are ony a few HP away frome each other. Drop one in a car and take it to the track. Do the mods, 1 on the stand and other at the track then see what happens. Driffrent dynos will give driffrent readings and can be fudged.

Quarter mile tells no lies. All so big number's on the stand is one thing, what it drives like is something total driffrent.

Long time ago I read a article (think it's the same Mag) bulit a stock 440, cast pistions and blue printed and could only make 350 HP. That sound turer to me.

                             Cuda Ken

[Headrope]

As I typed: "for your consderation." Everything anyone types should be taken only at face value.
I believe in the article, though. Selling magazines is one thing. Risking credibility - therefore reputation and future sales - is another.
The article seems to be along the lines of the intent of person who started the thread. The original question was what intake manifold should be used.

[cudaken]

 Personely, I hope they are right. With me selling the blower and going back closer to stock I might try the parts they listed.

It was still good reading, just wonder how bad the intake would hurt in the mid range.

                                         Cuda Ken               

[Headrope]

I'm think I'm going to try it too. Heck, maybe we all should. And if doesn't do what they claim we can out them as frauds and force them to provide each of us with our choice of intake.

[71Charger500]

I've seen that article a few times.  Only thing is, 850 cfm?  Isn't that a little big?

[Chryco Psycho]

Mopar used a 950 cfm 6 pack system on the 340 form the factory sucessfully

[71Charger500]

Mopar used a 950 cfm 6 pack system on the 340 form the factory sucessfully

But running 3 2 barrels at 950 is a lot different than running a single 4 barrel isn't it?  Im not sure, 850 cfm just seemed a little on the high side for a 383.

[cudaken]

71Charger500, they as well said it was big for where the 383 is right now. But latter on they are going to use the engine as a Mule for worked heads.

CFM by it self also does not tell the whole tail by it self. If the Demon has better metring than say a stock 3310 Holley it may very well work well and not bog down the 383. I don't remember if they said if it was stock out of the box or tuned to what the 383 liked.

                                 Cuda Ken