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Headlight Doors Not Opening

Started by CornDogsCharger, August 13, 2009, 09:52:28 PM

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CornDogsCharger

I installed all new hoses, the accuators were rebuilt by Wilson, and the headlight switch where the hoses plug in was serviced by Performance Car Graphics.  The car has a mild cam but still pulls enough vacuum.  The first thing I thought was... leaky canister.  I bypassed the canister and still nothing.  I listened for a leak at the switch but it checked out fine too.  When you turn the headlights on, nothing happens.... but if you help them up a little then they will slowly open.  Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be?  Could I possibly have the hoses routed wrong?  Does anyone have a diagram for the hoses?  Thanks

Justin
"CornDog"
1966 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (DMCL Project)
1969 Dodge Charger (WB General Lee "GL#004")
1969 Dodge Super Bee

nascarxx29

1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

70Sbird

Justin,
Maybe oversimplifying here but disconnect the vacuum hose connectors at the core support and hook up a vacuum gauge (if you have two, put one on each) with the car running and the headlights off, you should have manifold vacuum at one of the hoses, and none on the other. Turn on the headlights and you should now have vacuum at the other line and no vacuum where you had it before.
If this happens you are fine from the core support back. I had Wilson's rebuild my actuators and trust his craftsmanship, so I'm going to assume that the actuators are good. Take two lengths of loose vacuum hose and connect them to the Drivers side actuator (yes the front connection is a bitch). connect these two hoses to the vacuum lines at the core support and bypass the harness that connects to the other headlight. start the car and turn the headlights on, the headlight door should either open or close depending on how you have them connected (possibly reversed).
Repeat this procedure for the other actuator. It should go up and down now as well.
If the vacuum is present at the connections by the core support, and the actuators work independently with the harness bypassed, there is a connection issue or a big vacuum leak!
Hopefully this helps you out.
I went through this drill for over a year chasing a bad repro actuator that I trusted, but did not test. :brickwall:

Scott Faulkner

3--Daytona

   You might check the adjustment of the flat coil spring on the side of the box..,,,,,,,3-daytona

pettybird

Quote from: 3--Daytona on August 14, 2009, 07:27:09 AM
   You might check the adjustment of the flat coil spring on the side of the box..,,,,,,,3-daytona


like, if you disconnect the vacuum completely, do the headlights come up?  do you have the springs on the sides at all?  take a vacuum pump to each actuator and see if one's leaking really badly.

start at the actuators and work backwards.

62 Max

If they don 't open with the vacuum disconnected,the problems is with the springs.

CornDogsCharger

After doing a process of elemanation it keeps pointing to the vacuum switch on the back of the headlight switch.   When I bypass the switch, they open fine.  I currently do not have the springs properly installed (with tension).  I have heard of many people doing away with the springs all together.  Performance Car Graphics serviced two switches for us and neither one opperates properly.  Year One has a new switch on order for us so hopefully that will fix the problem.  Thanks for the help

Justin
"CornDog"
1966 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (DMCL Project)
1969 Dodge Charger (WB General Lee "GL#004")
1969 Dodge Super Bee

nascarxx29

A old newsletter tech tip for the vacuum switch ,Was silicone grease
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

moparstuart

Quote from: CornDogsCharger on August 14, 2009, 10:10:19 PM
After doing a process of elemanation it keeps pointing to the vacuum switch on the back of the headlight switch.   When I bypass the switch, they open fine.  I currently do not have the springs properly installed (with tension).  I have heard of many people doing away with the springs all together.  Performance Car Graphics serviced two switches for us and neither one opperates properly.  Year One has a new switch on order for us so hopefully that will fix the problem.  Thanks for the help

Justin
"CornDog"
dave rebuilt my switch and it works great


GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

danmc77

GUys, what spring are you referring too?  I have a 68, and no springs anywhere associated with the headlight door system.  Can you guys elaborate?

Edit:  just realized this thread is in the "Aero Cars" section - nevermind.

CornDogsCharger

Update:  Well guys, everything is working great now.  I have heard of many guys removing the spring and everything still works like it should.  Well, not in this case.  I installed the springs and wound them so they are functional.  That fixed everything.  Here's the only thing I can think of as to why they would not work without the springs.  Everyone that I have talked to that removed thier springs still had a factory cam.  This particular car has a mild cam.  My only guess would be.... a factory makes enough vacuum to open the headlights even without the assistance of the springs.  With a mild cam, you would think it makes plenty of vacuum to opperate everythihng as it should, but not quite enough to open the headlight doors.  I even made a cool little jig to pre-load the springs to make installation a breeze.  No more chewed up fingers or scratched paint.  I'll have to post some pictures of the jig when I get a minute.

Justin
"CornDog"
1966 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (DMCL Project)
1969 Dodge Charger (WB General Lee "GL#004")
1969 Dodge Super Bee

Aero426

So if there is not enough vacuum to open the doors, how are they managing to close against the tension of the springs?

maxwellwedge

1) Opening is easy with the spring - are they closing?
2) I would love to see the jig you made - I have used everything from coat hangers to small Aztec worship dolls dangling from the hood catch  :icon_smile_big:

CornDogsCharger

They close fine too.  I'm not really sure that the vacuum makes that much difference.  That's why I was so stumped.  It clearly pulls enough vacuum to close the doors but it was having the hardest time when it came to opening them (with no springs).  I installed all new rubber lines, Wilson rebuilt the accuators, Dave Patik serviced the H/L switch, and I even pressure tested the vacuum canister and then bypassed it to make sure that it wasn't that.  As soon as I installed the springs, I thought to myself "there is no way this thing will pull enough to put EVEN MORE pressure on the already loaded springs, and close the doors", but sure enough..... they closed. 

I'll have to load up the pictures of my homemade jig and post them here.

Justin
"CornDog"
1966 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (DMCL Project)
1969 Dodge Charger (WB General Lee "GL#004")
1969 Dodge Super Bee

62 Max

The springs help with opening but their main purpose is to keep the headlight boors from bouncing when they're in the open position.It's in the fleet engineering manual if you have a copy.

A383Wing

Quote from: 62 Max on September 17, 2009, 09:58:37 PM
The springs help with opening but their main purpose is to keep the headlight boors from bouncing when they're in the open position.It's in the fleet engineering manual if you have a copy.

I thought the springs were for keeping the headlights up when vacuum was lost so the headlights would light the road?

Dave Kanofsky

How well do the power brakes work?
"God sent his Son into the world not to judge the world, but to save the world through him." John 3:17, NLT

Racers For Christ Chaplain (www.teamrfc.org)

CornDogsCharger

Power brakes work like a charm.... once the original booster was rebuilt with a new diaphram.

Justin
"CornDog"
1966 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (DMCL Project)
1969 Dodge Charger (WB General Lee "GL#004")
1969 Dodge Super Bee