Headliner and Rear Glass Question:

[Captain D]

Hi guys,

I tried to do a search on this subject, but my puter' has been taking way too long to download anything here lately, so, I'll just go ahead and post...

I've just removed the old rear glass in my 69' Charger and sanded down the metal real good that was all underneath both the glass and sealant. I was curious to ask:

1.) Did you use anything specific to seal off rust in this area, such as the epoxy or just plain ol' Rustoleum oil-based paint (after a good rust converter and primer), etc. What do you prefer and why if I may ask...

2.) I have a new rear glass, but even though I'm in no great rush to re-install it, would it be best (and easier) to have the headliner installed first before it goes in?

Thank you for your time and any responses. I apologize if this has been covered already, which I'm sure it has, lol, but please forgive my un-cooperating puter.'...
Aaron

[tan top]

its easier with the glass out     as for rust in the rear window channel ,  all that rust preventive products ... not sure if they will adhere to each other !! well enough to stick the glass on ! my be ok for a few months but if one product shrinks back more with time than the other one will crack & lift off , , may be ok but just saying what i have seen over the years , if it was mine , would shot blast  then use a acid rust remover , wire brushes etc ,  to remove the rust , then repair if necessary , then etch & 2 pac prime !! or epoxy

[69*F5*SE]

Captain, what brand rust converter are you thinking of using?  Picklex 20 is the best I've used.  www.Picklex20.com  It will remove rust as well as convert any residual rust with the help of a scuffy pad.  Once the rust is dead you can apply epoxy primer over it.  If you can remove the rust altogether to bare metal then do it and apply epoxy.  You can still use the Picklex to prevent rust from forming on the bare metal till you can get to priming it. But, you want to use epoxy over it. PPG DP50lf epoxy is what I used.  No Rustoleum, save that for the lawn furniture.

[Captain D]

Thank you gents for the responses  ! The rust converter that a friend of mine suggested using is the Rust-Fix by DupliColor. A can of it round' here runs about $7 a can. Its real acidic and will burn on your fingers if kept on there long enough. Any positive/negative experiences with this stuff? Yeah, I'll keep the back window out for the headliner  . It'll probably save either me or a professional from saying a few extra curse words if that baby is out.

But, if this area gets epoxy primer, followed by the paint job, and finally the new rear glass gets installed, is the rust converter and epoxy primer good enough to prevent rust under the new paint? That's why I am a lil' tempted to shoot some Rustoleum under there just for the sake of having something there for the added protection. Not saying that I'm going to go this route, but I just like knowing that I did the best job under there to prevent rust and from having to tear it all back out later on down the road...

Thanks again!
Aaron

[69*F5*SE]

I don't have any experience with the DupliColor stuff.  Do you have any tools to remove the rust such as an air grinder etc..  Removal of the rust is not a bad idea.  I just don't know anything about this Rust Fix stuff.   

[Captain D]

Hey again, yeah, we were able to get it sanded down as close to the metal as we possibly could and get it really clean.

The Rust-Fix goes on clear, but turns rust to a black primer and supposedly prevents from forming again in the future. My friend encouraged me to spray it, let it set for a good 24 hrs. while keeping everything dry, and then apply etching primer right at the end of the 24 hr. period followed by an oil-based paint. It's found in a lot of Advanced Auto Parts stores for approx. $7/$8 and up at various locations. It seems like it sells pretty good round' my local auto parts stores. But this is where my questions in this thread, just to hear other opinions, come in at.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/rustfix.html

Thank you again for any tips and experiences,
Aaron

[Projekts]

Hey again, yeah, we were able to get it sanded down as close to the metal as we possibly could and get it really clean.

The Rust-Fix goes on clear, but turns rust to a black primer and supposedly prevents from forming again in the future. My friend encouraged me to spray it, let it set for a good 24 hrs. while keeping everything dry, and then apply etching primer right at the end of the 24 hr. period followed by an oil-based paint. It's found in a lot of Advanced Auto Parts stores for approx. $7/$8 and up at various locations. It seems like it sells pretty good round' my local auto parts stores. But this is where my questions in this thread, just to hear other opinions, come in at.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/rustfix.html

Thank you again for any tips and experiences,
Aaron

I've used that stuff and the rust has reappeared. I'm not saying it's bad but it's not perfect, I have not found a magic solution short of really removing all of the rust.

[Captain D]

Thank you fellas for the responses,

Just out of curiosity, to those who've used the Rust-Fix, did you use it and just let it sit out or did you apply a primer (or a paint) immediately after it dried (the can said that a primer or paint can be applied at 24 hrs.)?

Thanks again for any replies,
Aaron