Temporary fix...

[myk]

Hey everyone.  Well after owning my Charger for over 14 years on the west coast in the outdoors, rust is finally becoming a harsh reality for me.  I had mentioned a year ago that my deck filler panel is starting to bubble, but now I noticed my lower rear quarters are starting to rust as well.  

So the other day I decided to lightly hammer one of these "tiny" bubbles on my driver's side lower left quarter and I ended up with this:



I don't know anything about body work but my first instinct is to have that whole section cut out and fresh metal put in.  Well I can't do that right now for financial reasons, so I was hoping that some of you guys in the know could tell me what I could do to help slow the rusting.  I know I can't stop it, but I can at least try to do something until I can have it professionally taken care of.  I was figuring on trying to grind, sand, or whatever, as much of the rust out of that hole as I can, then apply some of these rust-converting products everyone seems to talk about and sell, then fill it and then prime it.  

Please keep in mind that I don't know anything about body work, so any advice on what tools and or techniques to use would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance for helping to keep my car alive...

[Silver R/T]

put a lot of rust mort on it or por15 then prime over it. It should last a bit before you're ready to replace section

[Mike DC]

   
Yeah, it depends on how you define temporary and long term.  And how the car is stored/conditions. 


Leaving things a few months probably won't make a real difference in a southwestern environment.  But you need to get more serious if you know it's gonna sit un-fixed for a couple years though.



 

[myk]

Ok guys thanks for the response.  Honestly, I can't say any of the rust is going to be fixed soon.  It's going to be much later, rather than sooner, therefor I want to take whatever steps I can to slow down the rust, as I know I can't stop it.  Unfortunately the car is outdoors, and although it's typically dry out here it does rain and get moist every once in a while.  Geez I can't believe that rust hole went as deep as it did.  So, should I try and scrape out as much of the rust in that hole then put on that anti-rust material?  What tool would I use for that?  Someone told me a wire brush attached to a drill, but I just don't know body stuff.  Help!

[dads_69]

Temp fix would be a good coat of Fiberglass so it won't at least get anymore road grime in it an cause more of a rust issue.
Mud, bondo over it, then finish it off with 120 grit or 180, prime then wet sand with 320 or 400 grit, seal it, spot paint it in using a blending agent so it won't look so hacked up. Quick cut an buff, good as new.
Easy enough to do for what your asking and needing done now and look good for a few years.

Mark

[myk]

Thanks Mark.  I've also been looking at POR 15's products.  It seems that I'm just supposed to "clean" the rusted areas and just apply the POR 15 directly on the rust; from what I understand POR 15 actually needs rust to bond to?  That sounds crazy to me, and certainly opposite of what I've always been led to believe which is taking out as much rust as possible down to bare metal.  If I just applied the POR 15 onto the rust, wouldn't the rust still be alive and well underneath the POR 15? 

So, rust converter or POR 15? 

[jaak]

I wouldnt waste my $$$$ on por-15, get zero rust its cheaper and better.
its available in quarts, gallons and spray bombs....
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=2ZRQ&Category_Code=RCAC

Jason

[myk]

Wow, never heard of it.  I'll definitely check it out.  What I like about the Zero Rust so far is that it comes in a spray can, is cheaper and can be stored indefinitely.  'Prep work seems easier too..

[Silver R/T]

Thanks Mark.  I've also been looking at POR 15's products.  It seems that I'm just supposed to "clean" the rusted areas and just apply the POR 15 directly on the rust; from what I understand POR 15 actually needs rust to bond to?  That sounds crazy to me, and certainly opposite of what I've always been led to believe which is taking out as much rust as possible down to bare metal.  If I just applied the POR 15 onto the rust, wouldn't the rust still be alive and well underneath the POR 15? 

So, rust converter or POR 15? 

umm...por15 IS rust converter. And that would be easiest way out of it imo

[myk]

Hmm...corrrect me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that POR 15 and Zero Rust bond to rust and then isolates it, keeping it from getting the moisture or air it needs to spread.  What stands out to me is storage: I've read that once POR 15 is opened it hardens after a couple of weeks or something.  The Zero Rust in the spray can doesn't have that problem and I'd imagine is much easier to apply...

[Silver R/T]

Hmm...corrrect me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that POR 15 and Zero Rust bond to rust and then isolates it, keeping it from getting the moisture or air it needs to spread.  What stands out to me is storage: I've read that once POR 15 is opened it hardens after a couple of weeks or something.  The Zero Rust in the spray can doesn't have that problem and I'd imagine is much easier to apply...

I have a quart of por15 laying in my garage right now. It's liquid. I'd like to note that I've had it for over 4 years now. I did use half of it on my trunk floor years ago. You do need to put some saran wrap between lid and container and then close it very tightly. I really hate when people don't follow rules and then blame it on the product, which it was in this case. I can see "Billy" letting open container sit overnight and then in morning he shuts it and month later it's hardened.
That's why you only use whatever quantity you need and close lid (with wrap under lid) you won't ever have a problem

[Silver R/T]

You can also try Rust Mort. all it is just conversion coating. You can spray it from spray bottle. You do need to topcoat it though if I'm not mistaken or it will get chalky.

[myk]

Hey that saran wrap trick is genius.  Yeah, I guess all 3 of these converters are UV sensitive too so they have to be either top-coated or otherwise protected.  Of course, I'm going to have to apply bondo/filler so I guess I don't have to worry about the top-coat product I'm supposed to buy...

[dads_69]

Personally I would use short strand green hair fiberglass after applying which ever type of metal treatment, scuff it before applying any type or mud also. 80/100 grit gently at least but don't remove all what you applied to bare metal again.
Fiberglass will be stronger holding and last longer if prepped correctly also, then skim coat with bondo *finish glaze* afterwards, prime with 3 coats minimun also before finishing, sand and prep. I think you know what steps from there, if not, just post to link here again and either Silver or I will hook you up.
Good luck man, nice collection of rides also you have! 


Mark

[myk]

Wow thanks guys, this is exactly what the Dodge and I need.  I'm also thinking that while I'm doing this for the lower quarter, I should probably pop out my rear window and do the same thing to that deck filler panel and the rear window channel also.  What do you guys think? 

[Silver R/T]

they sell weld-in patch panels for that area. Personally I would do it right first time.

[myk]

I totally agree, I just don't have the coin to get it done. I'm salivating over the patch panel that has the window channel, but the average estimate I got around here in San Diego was $2500 to replace the panel, and that's without paint.  $2500 to replace one panel.  I'm in the wrong line of work lemme tell ya...

[Silver R/T]

get the tools and do it yourself

[myk]

Believe you me I plan on one day being able to own a welder and work metal myself.  Just like I taught myself how to work on car systems with the help of this forum.  But bodywork, an art form in itself, will take me a lot longer to figure out than working on cars, and I know that rust isn't going to wait until I'm ready.  With your guy's help I can get through this.  Thanks to all again.  I'm going to order some Zero-rust and their 'prep liquid tomorrow.  Hopefully, I'll be rust-busting by Wednesday and I can slow this rust down!

[MoParJW]

use a rust converter and after it dries soak it with grease, vaseline or bearing grease works great 

[Silver R/T]

grease wont look good on there. He's trying to get it to point where he can drive it as far as I understand. He plans to restore it later on.

[myk]

Son of a b**tch.  The Zero Rust company just told me that they had to cancel my order because they're not allowed to sell to California; freaking C.A.R.B.  Geez, I guess I'll have to go with POR-15 or the stuff the local parts stores sell.

Meanwhile I drive the car once a week, so the plan will have to be treating the rust, filling over it, then priming and rattle-can on top of it all...

[Silver R/T]

Son of a b**tch.  The Zero Rust company just told me that they had to cancel my order because they're not allowed to sell to California; freaking C.A.R.B.  Geez, I guess I'll have to go with POR-15 or the stuff the local parts stores sell.

Meanwhile I drive the car once a week, so the plan will have to be treating the rust, filling over it, then priming and rattle-can on top of it all...

hey, just get it on ebay. They wouldnt care where you're buying it from as long as you pay for shipping

[green69rt]

Hey everyone.  Well after owning my Charger for over 14 years on the west coast in the outdoors, rust is finally becoming a harsh reality for me.  I had mentioned a year ago that my deck filler panel is starting to bubble, but now I noticed my lower rear quarters are starting to rust as well.  

So the other day I decided to lightly hammer one of these "tiny" bubbles on my driver's side lower left quarter and I ended up with this:



I don't know anything about body work but my first instinct is to have that whole section cut out and fresh metal put in.  Well I can't do that right now for financial reasons, so I was hoping that some of you guys in the know could tell me what I could do to help slow the rusting.  I know I can't stop it, but I can at least try to do something until I can have it professionally taken care of.  I was figuring on trying to grind, sand, or whatever, as much of the rust out of that hole as I can, then apply some of these rust-converting products everyone seems to talk about and sell, then fill it and then prime it.  

Please keep in mind that I don't know anything about body work, so any advice on what tools and or techniques to use would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance for helping to keep my car alive...

I looked at your pictures and I can see a lot of rust on the panels behind the quarter.  Not unusual.   Have you looked under the car, in the trunk on that side, inside the quarter window well?  I suspect you go a lot more going on than is obvious.  What about the other side?

[myk]

Funny that you ask.  The rust areas that I'm aware of are what I've posted, the deck filler panel, a little bit of surface rusting in the trunk, the tail panel and, oddly enough, the back half of the right rear quarter panel on the very lower half.  Weird how both rear quarter panels decided to reveal rusting on opposite ends.  I plan to attack all areas of rust that I can find and apply the Zero-Rust, then filling, priming and painting over.  Once again I know it's not a permanent fix but I've ignored this problem for too long and it's time to at least try to slow it down.  Every "body man" I've talked to says to do something while all of the panels on the car are still "good and straight," whatever that means.

By the way, the folks at MFG in Georgia were kind enough to refer me to a place in SAN DIEGO of all places, to buy their Zero-Rust product, lol.  Unfortunately, I had already ordered the stuff from somewhere else, but it's good to know that I can get more really easily.

Keep in mind San Diego owners, that this stuff is available locally!