engine/camshaft questions

[mauve66]

reading some of these engine build threads i was wondering
for a street engine that would be run hard on the street and the track but still need to be driven 4-500 miles per day on a trip
1.  wouldn't a hydraulic roller be the ideal choice??
2.  don't solid rollers still need the valves adjusted regularly like the old solid flat tappet cams??
3.  other than the cam and roller hardware and change to dist shaft gear, nothing else is needed right??
4.  i read where one of the changes someone thought was needed was an electric fuel pump??  other than for EFI, why is this??
5.  even considering the expense, wouldn't a hydraulic roller be the best choice in the long run considering the oil additives that are supposedly needed for flat tappets now days?
6.  alot of the build threads i see are only getting 450-540 HP (i'm not saying that in a negative way either).  i was thinking i would need more along the lines of 600 HP/650 TQ to get a 4300 lb full interior car into the low 11's high 10's.  Is 600 HP realistic for a street ALL motor (without turbos/superchargers/nitrous)??  i only want to do this once.
7.  i've also read where people send their motors back to the builder every year or two to get "freshened up".  Is that only race engines ??
8.  when considering the HP number i THINK i need, would a 440 or 400 be the best basis for the stroker (i know, no substitute for cubic inches but)?? I've heard that an issue of outer cylinder wall thrust wear becomes a consideration when doing a stroker with too much stroke to it.

sorry if some of these are stupid questions

[Runner]

i have a friend that just had a link bar fail on his brand new engine. they were good lifters that failed, it ate up the lifter and hurt his merlin block its a low 7 second dragster.  his chevy motor is now running a .904 lifter ( mopar/amc size).  my point is stuff fails sometimes. just cause its a roller cam doesnt mean it wont fail.  as far as adjusting the valve it really doesnt have to be done all that often. i adjust the valves every spring in my roadrunner with a solid (flat tappet) cam and at the most i have a few that i need to"tweek".     

    that being said id think hydrolic roller would work well for you, but dont be afraid to go solid roller just to get out of adjusting the valves cause it aint a big deal and only takes about 15-20 minutes once a year and could probably be done every other year.

   

[Rolling_Thunder]

For Street engines - I am a fan of hydraulic tappets for the street...    As far as hydraulic rollers go - yes they would be IDEAL for hi po street engines as they allow a higher lift per duration - this allows for a more "streetable" cam (aka less duration) but gives the benefit of added lift...    ideal for a mild mannered street engine...     the only downside is the need for a bronze dizzy gear...   that piece DOES wear out...       

600hp is a lot of power for a street car...    hell 500hp is more than 99% of people need in a street car...      if you're looking for 600hp it is possible - just be prepared to pay...   

[firefighter3931]

A hyd roller is a good choice for a limited rpm street/strip engine. The only downside is cost and valvetrain stability above 6000 rpm. That being said ; it's quite possible to achieve your power goals and still have a reliable engine as long as it's planned out well. The key is the cylinder heads...that is where the power is made. To make 600hp you will have to fully port a set of Eddy Rpm heads or go with a set of Indy EZ-1's with the MW intake port.



Ron

[charger_fan_4ever]

With 440 plus cubic inches 600Hp isn't unrealistic. As Ron said though cylinder heads are the key.You need a head with a large cross section width and flow. Think of the intake runner cross section of the head as the "choke" point. Makes me chuckle with these 500 plus cubic inch engines running stock steel heads. 440 cubes with a lighter weight rotating assembly with forged slugs, forged rods and a forged crank with a set of indy heads and a custom cam look out stroker engines. Problem with the big cube engines is they need huge heads $$ to see the full potential. No need in stroking a 440 to make 500-600Hp.

I've raced a 351w fox body mustang for the past 5 years. Simple build with a  balanced stock crank, h beam rods and light weight hypereutectic pistons, edelbrock vic jr cylinder heads and matching single plane intake with a 750 hp carb. Rolled mid 11's at 115 plus mph regularly and cost under $4000 to build and tops out at 6500 rpm with a hyd flat tappet cam. Mind you only weighed 3200lbs race weight. I drive it on the street regularly.

Buddy has a 331ci that turns 7500rpm and some good heads. Made 525hp on the dyno and runs 10's.

Don't skimp on cylinder heads and get the right cam in there and 600hp is very attainable. If your not set on a big block you could easily get the 600 hp out of a 400ish cube stroked small block for less than the big block.