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Factory head exhaust bolts/studs?

Started by Hot_Rodder, July 19, 2009, 11:24:58 AM

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Hot_Rodder

July 19, 2009, 11:24:58 AM
Though it's been some time since I gave this question any thought, it got me wondering since I'm going to be running a set of headers on my 440. Are any of the bolt/stud hole on the exhaust side for mounting the manifold/header tapped into a water port? I'm thinking there is, but which one(s)? I have thought about filling the motor up with water to check, but figured what's the point when I can just ask....

c00nhunterjoe

#1
July 19, 2009, 11:27:07 AM
some of mine go into the water jackets and some dont. your best bet is drain the coolant down and then install the headers. you will still lose some collant when you remove the bolts but it wont be near as bad as if you dont drain it

Hot_Rodder

#2
July 19, 2009, 12:10:15 PM
Right now the motor isn't even the car yet, lol. What I've got in mind is that I was to pretty much run all bolts, guess I can put some anti seize on the threads, then fill the motor up with the coolant and... hope... for the best.... Here's what I have in mind:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STG-8956/ these are stainless and double hex head....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STG-8936/ these are nickle plated, but 12 point head....
And just to spice things up a bit, I guess.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STG-8950/ can't forget about these...
Running these, I figure I want have to worry about them loosening up, and possibly leaking. What do you all think? Right now I want to say there's only one stud on the exhaust mounting area, the rest, good question, this is how it was when I got the motor...

b5blue

#3
July 19, 2009, 03:21:59 PM
I'd put sealant on them not anti seize!

chargerbr549

#4
July 19, 2009, 04:18:41 PM
On stock production big block heads, the exhaust studs all go into water, my recommendation is to keep the studs in there, you usually don't have problems with them leaking coolant but it usually makes it alot harder to install the headers, I have done it either way on my big block in my 69 Charger.

Kevin

Hot_Rodder

#5
July 19, 2009, 04:31:56 PM
I figured that the bolt holes went into the water jacket... As for a sealer, I guess RTV will work, question is, which one? I'm not wanting to run the black RTV, maybe another one.... Hmmm.... Either way, seems like the Stage 8 hardware is a go, I'm just thinking the 12 bolt might be a little better than the hex head, hopefully the head diameter on the 12 point is a little smaller than the hex head... Also, I would say the 12 point would be easier to install the locking device on wince it would have twice the mounting positions to choose from.... Dun know though.

b5blue

#6
July 19, 2009, 07:35:33 PM
I used the copper high temp on my studs, worked good for me.  :2thumbs:

Hot_Rodder

#7
July 19, 2009, 09:22:00 PM
Quote from: b5blue on July 19, 2009, 07:35:33 PM
I used the copper high temp on my studs, worked good for me.  :2thumbs:
I might have some of that sitting around the place, question is, is it still any good.....

c00nhunterjoe

#8
July 19, 2009, 09:42:50 PM
the last time i did my headers was when i installed the engine back in high school, that was using no sealer, i have not had a leak, i just swapped headers and this time i used antiseize due to the pain it was to remove the bolts after all these years. we are going on a month now with no issues loosening or leaking


ps, it gets run alot too, not been sitting, i put over 300 miles on the car this weekend!
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