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70 Charger Turning switch

Started by ChargerSG, July 19, 2009, 07:19:09 AM

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ChargerSG

Is it hard to change the Turingswitch in the stearing colume on a 70 Charger? What to think of?
And is the switch the same on the 70 Charger and 71 Charger?
Looking for 383 Magnum #0B196875 and 0B115166

b5blue


ChargerSG

Thanks, then im gonna order that 71 switch :cheers:
Looking for 383 Magnum #0B196875 and 0B115166

b5blue

The procedure is well covered here, the main thing for our 70's is the flasher switch is part of it. All part of the change to column key type.  :2thumbs:

nascarxx29

Its not that hard .You have to remove the steering wheel.Remove turn signal lever a couple phillips head screws .Then drop down column remove lower support bracket.Then remove the metal guide to expose wires .Then un snap the connection.And pull it up through the column
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

b5blue

YUP! Just tie a string when ya pull the old one out to pull the new one's wires down.  ;)

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: b5blue on July 19, 2009, 09:50:09 AM
A: not B: yes!

Quote from: ChargerSG on July 19, 2009, 11:06:14 AM
Thanks, then im gonna order that 71 switch :cheers:

yes but NOT... on half 71 year was slightly changed... knob on second 71 years half is bigger and turns on PULLING OUT, for a while your and first 71 half is thin knob and turns on pusshing in.

functions howevere are the same.

Swicthes you'll find around ( repro and new mopars ) are second 71 half to 74 kind

if you find your right 70 and first 71 half year piece let me know  ::). a buddy of mine needs one down here.
Knob affects the courtesy light kind
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

ChargerSG

That one was great reading, thanks Nacho :cheers:
Looking for 383 Magnum #0B196875 and 0B115166

ChargerSG

Looking for 383 Magnum #0B196875 and 0B115166

nascarxx29

1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701


ChargerSG

Yes i did, i just asked on that one since i found it cheap. I can guess that this one is the one for me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=370215932018
Looking for 383 Magnum #0B196875 and 0B115166

nascarxx29

1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Nacho-RT74

no one of them is really the right one. Trust me when I tell you I never have seen the right one being sell around.

Can you make it work ? mostly sure yes, trimming the knob, but won't be the RIGHT one
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Projekts

Nacho is right. I just bought one of those switches for my 1970 and it doesn't fit in two places. First the hazzard knob won't move in and out of the housing, it's too wide. To fix this I drilled the 3 pop rivets out of the old and new one and simply repainted and reused the old knob. Secondly the cradle for the turn signal lever is too narrow on the new one and needs to be filed a little for your turn signal lever to fit.

nascarxx29

I also had to make those mods
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: Projekts on July 22, 2009, 01:57:22 PM
Nacho is right. I just bought one of those switches for my 1970 and it doesn't fit in two places. First the hazzard knob won't move in and out of the housing, it's too wide. To fix this I drilled the 3 pop rivets out of the old and new one and simply repainted and reused the old knob. Secondly the cradle for the turn signal lever is too narrow on the new one and needs to be filed a little for your turn signal lever to fit.

and I guess you got now a PULL OUT to ON function, instead PUSH IN to ON function from the original.

E bodies units work in that way thought  :shruggy:
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

ChargerSG

Thanks to all you for the great info :cheers:
To buy something for $80+Tax and custumfee and then have to remake it to make it semi work dont feel like best thing. A try to restore the old one feel like a good winter project ;) Or do a find on a orginal right one on like Ebay :scratchchin:
Looking for 383 Magnum #0B196875 and 0B115166

Projekts

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on July 22, 2009, 08:00:14 PM
Quote from: Projekts on July 22, 2009, 01:57:22 PM
Nacho is right. I just bought one of those switches for my 1970 and it doesn't fit in two places. First the hazzard knob won't move in and out of the housing, it's too wide. To fix this I drilled the 3 pop rivets out of the old and new one and simply repainted and reused the old knob. Secondly the cradle for the turn signal lever is too narrow on the new one and needs to be filed a little for your turn signal lever to fit.

and I guess you got now a PULL OUT to ON function, instead PUSH IN to ON function from the original.

E bodies units work in that way thought  :shruggy:

The Flasher on the reproduction pushes in to the on position. Otherwise the flashers would always be on because you can't get the switch into the housing without the knob being extended. The reason I don't recommend filing the switch that comes on the reproduction switch is that the plastic thin enough that by the time you got it working there would probably be a hole in the flasher. I guess you could fill the void with resin to avoid going through. Here are a few pictures.

1. The test fit
2. Switch comparison
3. Cradle comparison
4. New cradle after a little bit of filing.

I hope this helps.


Nacho-RT74

Oh interesting!!!! repro pieces are push in ON position...new Mopar pieces I'm aware are PULL OUT ON POSITION!!!

I got a NOS piece exactly with the disposition my car came out... PULL OUT to on.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

b5blue

I found this one...#4293102 tss....eBay item #180384109159  :shruggy: check it out.