More electrical demons....

[69bronzeT5]

So the car ran great all day yesterday, fired up first shot and everything. Now, I haven't been able to drive at night because I had no working taillights and turn signals. Had brakes, headlights, marker lights and park lights. So, me and my dad got everything working last night...all the lights worked. Turned out there was a loose/unhooked ground wire by the taillight panel. Now for some reason, the car won't start at all with the ignition. Now the headlights and other lights don't work except one brake light works. In order to get it back to my grandparent's house (we had it at my dad's girlfriend's after the show), we had to run a wire from the coil to the battery and then it would start (by crossing the starter relay). As soon as you removed the wire from the battery, it would shut off. Now it seems like the battery is dead too. What the hell is going on?

[TylerCharger69]

Well....if it ran BEFORE you repaired the ground to the taillights,  try unhooking it again just for s**ts and giggles and see if the car starts.  Sounds like somethings crossed.  If I may add something that happened to me, sort of the same thing, I had similar trouble with my rear lights as well.  As it turned out, due to nobody's fault but my own, the trim piece that goes from the back of the skid plate (terminology?) and holds the rear side panel in place has a screw near the rear seat.  Well....long story short, when I screwed it back in place, the screw went right through the wiring harness going to the rear and caused a similar problem.  I know.....I already slapped myself for that one.  But maybe this post will help prevent someone else from making the same mistake as I did, and not knowing what exactly is the trouble with yours, it's something to consider.

[69bronzeT5]

Basically...it went like this in a timeline...

1-Ran and started with ignition
2-Turned off and fixed lights
3-Ran and started with ignition and tested lights- everything worked
4-Turned off
5-Wouldn't start and lights wouldn't work

[A383Wing]

sounds like a battery terminal connection or a cable ground issue to me...

but what do I know

[TylerCharger69]

yeah....it seems like a ground to me.  Forgive me not reading the thread right. I didn't realize the car ran AFTER you tightened that ground.  You may have other issues that just coincedentally popped up.

[Neal_J]

With the battery recharged and with everything electrical on the car off, pull the negative battery cable and connect a multimeter between the cable and and the negative terminal of the battery.  If a current draw is detected, you have a short somewhere.  Then begins the hunt...

[A383Wing]

With the battery recharged and with everything electrical on the car off, pull the negative battery cable and connect a multimeter between the cable and and the negative terminal of the battery.  If a current draw is detected, you have a short somewhere.  Then begins the hunt...

This is providing you do not have an after market stereo in there that draws constant power to keep the memory alive...if you do, you must disconnect it before the above test is made...otherwise it will show a 12v usage and you will not find your problem. Check your battery cable & ground connections first...that's the easiest at this point 

[nascarxx29]

With the battery recharged and with everything electrical on the car off, pull the negative battery cable and connect a multimeter between the cable and and the negative terminal of the battery.  If a current draw is detected, you have a short somewhere.  Then begins the hunt...

As mentioned the hunt begins.With a meter or a testlight .You want to pull one fuse at a time to isolate the problem area when hunting down a short.Make sure all connections all clean and tight and you have good grounds.And I make sure every switch is off and doors closed .So not to get a false reading

[Neal_J]

Rereading the OP , it seems likely the short is in/near the taillights.   I'd pull that fuse 1st!~


Some unsolicited advise.  My counsel to any Young Gun is to have and enjoy an old car, but NOT as your primary means of daily transportation (don't know if this is the case for Cody).  Back in college, I had a '66 Mustang (sorry) as my daily driver and it was constantly having mechanical & electrical issues.  As soon as I solved one problem, two more took its place. One of the better decisions I made was to fix it up, sell it and use the proceeds to buy a new truck for reliable transporation.  A mere 10 years later, with degree mounted on the wall of my office, I bought the Charger.  A mere 15 years later, the damn car still has issues...  However, with a more reliable car, I can still get to work to earn more cash to buy the parts to fix the car.  Soapbox done.

[TUFCAT]

I agree with the others....and I'd start searching for a ground problem. It could be tough.  

Rob (1969Chargerrtse) is an excellent resource.  I'd put him on the list for advise before getting too deep.

[nascarxx29]

This is how I always checked my grounds.I hook up a 12 volt testlight with the clip on the + pos on the battery.Or whatever source of+ power you have available to access in your working area.And when you touch the pointed end.To what your checking to see if its well grounded it lights the light.If not theres a problem.Its the opposite hook up of testing for voltage.And having alot of mopar for 30 + years with the usuall wiring issues.And done about 35 and counting mopar related wiring jobs on others cars .Number 1 mopar Issue grounds noumber 2.Amp gauge and its connections it housed in metal dash frame insulated by paper thin cardboard. fuse box connections and bulkhead terminal connections and condition and continiuty of the wires .Ignition switch terminal connections Ive seen alot of burnt terminals on the 70s cars especially in this area. Also at the starter relay where the fuseable link is often bypassed .Are all areas prone to issues.And this electrical system from day 1 wasnt state of the art.And now the cars being much older these electrical sysyems and known trouble prone areas.These issues surface

Electricity is lazy and will choose another easier path and cross circuit.And make wierd things happen.

And anything that carries + positive battery voltage.And is coroded or loose .Then you get high resistance .Wires getting warm connections hot and that familar plastic burning smell

And if your adding optional equpment.I go by the old school if you want to flow more water you need larger pipe .Heavier wire for load devices


And Ive these issues and other related wiring troubles come to the surface on various posts
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,59020.0.html

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,59087.0.html

[nascarxx29]

Link to various wiring diagrams you may need .
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27

[69bronzeT5]

Okay...I got a question. The two bottom wires on the starter relay (which is a month old)....I have a question about them. They are not the ones that bolt on...they just 'clip' on.....anyways, if you turn the key on, and stick a tester in there, should one of the wires get power? My grandpa said there should be but there is nothing....the only time it lights up is when you stick it on the top main bolt on connection which it should be. Sounds confusing I know...I tried to explain it as well as I could.

[nascarxx29]

The 2 wires with the push on terminals on the lower edge of relay .One is yellow from the Ignition .The other terminal is the neutral safety switch.which goes back to the transmission.If you choose to bypass the neutral safety switch as you got nothing happening when you turn the key.Just ground that terminal with a piece of wire .Be aware with a automatic it will now start in every gear.And on a 4 speed you wont need to push in the clutch.While bypassed
Note you want the yellow wire on the slanted terminal.And neutral safety switch on the other terminal

[69bronzeT5]

So there should be power coming from the ignition one right?

[nascarxx29]

The yellow coming from ignition switch to the relay which is start has power from the key switch

[nascarxx29]

This is my reply to a 74 charger with no start condition.But same principals apply other then key switch location.Hope this helps



     Re: Ignition problem (starter/electrical)
« Reply #1 on: Today at 03:55:54 AM » Quote Modify 

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Was this starter bench tested from the parts store that supplied it. It could be defective.How old is the battery.Check positive cable and positive connection and neg- grounds.And connections at the starter relay. Also harness connections clean tight.What happens instead of using ignition column switch.You take a screwdriver to the starter relay and cross the pos stud where the pos connection bolts onto relay .To the brown wire that bolts on with a 1/4 or 5/16 head on the relay.And quickly bridge these to terminals to see if it cranks over then .Without going through the steering column.You can also go directly to the starter with a screwdriver and cross those 2 connection big and small .Or do it at the relay as early mentioned.Last thought with a socket on the engine can it be turned freely.To eliminate and possibility of mechanical interference

[maxwellwedge]

The yellow coming from ignition switch to the relay which is start has power from the key switch

Yes - just to add - when you crank the key all the way over to start the yellow should have volts.

[69bronzeT5]

What happens instead of using ignition column switch.You take a screwdriver to the starter relay and cross the pos stud where the pos connection bolts onto relay .To the brown wire that bolts on with a 1/4 or 5/16 head on the relay.And quickly bridge these to terminals to see if it cranks over then .

We have done that and it turns over every time.

[nascarxx29]

So your saying it will now crank over by crossing the relay from under the hood.But not from inside the car by the key .Go to the next page and lets see if this fixs it

[nascarxx29]

Have you tried putting a jumper wire on the opposite terminal next to the yellow wire.On that other terminal unplug whats there.And if you have a jumper wire clip to that terminal and back to ground to bypass the neutral safety switch .Because the automatic transmission has a switch threaded into the case that gives you a neutral start and reverse lights .If you have a 4 speed you have the interlock where clutch has to be pushed down to start .All of which will be by passed by jumper wire to ground.If you resume function back to the key starting the car.Then its a safety switch /wire to switch or linkage adjustment.If problem persists then check ignition switch and its connector at back of key switch

[TUFCAT]

Cody, I just caught your thread.  When I started out in the hobby this is what I'd do....

If I couldn't figure it out I'd call my Dad. If my Dad lost me on the details, I'd call my brother Mike.

If that didn't work, I get one [or both of them] to come over to fix the problem.

Over the years I've learned I can usually diagnose most basic electrical problems after some time and patience .....but I'm still a novice compared to most.

Good luck, and remember this is a learning experience for you.

[nascarxx29]

Hopefully you will get it resolved.You do have it cranking over again.Though at the starter relay .Worst case scenerio if you have key on power and no cranking position on the switch.Run 2 wires inside to a push bottom starter switch inside the car.Ive done worse jobs after and before so dont give up