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Heater box rebuild questions- paint and hardware coating

Started by redfourjohnd, July 01, 2009, 03:10:34 AM

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redfourjohnd

Hi,

I'm redoing my heater box, non ac in a 68 Charger. I beadblasted all the metal parts and panels. I painted the panels gloss black, they came out pretty nice.

What should I coat the screws with? They look like they were plated or galvanized. There are a few that look blued or black oxide coated.

Also, I left the fiberglass alone, didn't paint it. It didn't look bad on the areas that you can see. I did have to epoxy several cracks, but they don't show. Should I paint it too, or leave it the way it came from the factory? Maybe armor all it or something?

Thanks!

John D
First car: 1969 Charger R/T 440 4 barrel 3.91 rear- sold it like a dummy.

Current Mopars:

1968 Charger Slant Six A833 OD
1976 Ramcharger 400 4WD
1962 Valiant 170 2 door post
1962 Valiant 225 Signet
1962 Valiant 225 Signet junker car-but it has a brand new rebuilt 225 in it :-))
1962 Lancer parts car

redfourjohnd

Hi again,

Found the Detroit Muscle Tech website and ordered the stainless steel hardware set, and a box seal gasket. Also ordered a foam kit as it looks nicer than the one I have already.

I'd still like to hear opinions on the paint though.

Thanks again!

John D
First car: 1969 Charger R/T 440 4 barrel 3.91 rear- sold it like a dummy.

Current Mopars:

1968 Charger Slant Six A833 OD
1976 Ramcharger 400 4WD
1962 Valiant 170 2 door post
1962 Valiant 225 Signet
1962 Valiant 225 Signet junker car-but it has a brand new rebuilt 225 in it :-))
1962 Lancer parts car

hemi68charger

I just got done with one myself, I wouldn't paint the body. If the cracks aren't visible once installed, then it'll look better natural. Of course, you'll paint the front face/cover. Now, the two back halves, that's up to you. Once again, you won't see them once installed. I would tape off the three studs that go through the firewall. I would look obvious you painted them from the engine bay side. Leave them natural with the OEM nuts/captive washers. Here's what I did for my '68 Hemi Charger before I traded it for my current Daytona.



Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

green69rt

Quote from: redfourjohnd on July 01, 2009, 05:40:40 AM
Hi again,

Found the Detroit Muscle Tech website and ordered the stainless steel hardware set, and a box seal gasket. Also ordered a foam kit as it looks nicer than the one I have already.

I'd still like to hear opinions on the paint though.

Thanks again!

John D

Would you post the web site for Detroit muscle please.

redfourjohnd

The website is http://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/. Looks like good stuff, I'll find out in a few days.

Hemi68 that box looks great. I'll do the same. The only thing I did wrong was I painted All the metal black. I'll have to shoot a coat of silver or metal color over the back pieces and the front mounts for the cables. I did mask off the mounting bolts though. What should I coat those with? Paint or oil? Something else?

Thanks for the advice!

John D
First car: 1969 Charger R/T 440 4 barrel 3.91 rear- sold it like a dummy.

Current Mopars:

1968 Charger Slant Six A833 OD
1976 Ramcharger 400 4WD
1962 Valiant 170 2 door post
1962 Valiant 225 Signet
1962 Valiant 225 Signet junker car-but it has a brand new rebuilt 225 in it :-))
1962 Lancer parts car

redfourjohnd

Got the detroit muscle kits. The hardware looks nice, not as shiny as I'd expected, but neither were the originals. I was picturing polished stainless. Maybe I'll buff them up.

The foam is the thin original charcoal colored kind, easy to mash it flat. It's different than the other kit I got which is a thicker, firmer black foam. It seems the Detroit muscle kit will fit better as it's closer to the original size. The longevity might be better with the black stuff, but who knows.

It came with detailed instructions with diagrams and pictures which is way better than the other kit where there were none at all.

Got the firewall gasket kit which is nice also.  The fresh air vent gasket is duplicated in this kit (it comes in the heater box kit too). Also duplicated are the heater core donuts and the foam for the heater box studs.

Not sure which kit I'll use yet. I bet the fit on the Detroit kit will be excellent, it appears really well thought out.

John D
First car: 1969 Charger R/T 440 4 barrel 3.91 rear- sold it like a dummy.

Current Mopars:

1968 Charger Slant Six A833 OD
1976 Ramcharger 400 4WD
1962 Valiant 170 2 door post
1962 Valiant 225 Signet
1962 Valiant 225 Signet junker car-but it has a brand new rebuilt 225 in it :-))
1962 Lancer parts car

hemi68charger

Quote from: redfourjohnd on July 02, 2009, 04:55:11 AM
The website is http://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/. Looks like good stuff, I'll find out in a few days.

Hemi68 that box looks great. I'll do the same. The only thing I did wrong was I painted All the metal black. I'll have to shoot a coat of silver or metal color over the back pieces and the front mounts for the cables. I did mask off the mounting bolts though. What should I coat those with? Paint or oil? Something else?

Thanks for the advice!

John D


John.
I would just wire brush or wheel the three studs and then spray them with a corrosion control solution, maybe Permentex's Extend. It's in most of your auto parts stores in the paint-n-body section. Usually dries to a clear finish. If you paint, it'll looks good, but it may flake or just plain not look right.

Troy
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

redfourjohnd

Thanks Troy! I'll get some tomorrow, I'll be sure to need it for other stuff too.

I forgot to mention the heater box to cowl seal. It's really nice, fits perfect and the rubber seems tough. It should seal way better than my original which is pretty flat and tore at the spot where it was originally glued together. I almost reused it, but the Detroit one was inexpensive.

John D
First car: 1969 Charger R/T 440 4 barrel 3.91 rear- sold it like a dummy.

Current Mopars:

1968 Charger Slant Six A833 OD
1976 Ramcharger 400 4WD
1962 Valiant 170 2 door post
1962 Valiant 225 Signet
1962 Valiant 225 Signet junker car-but it has a brand new rebuilt 225 in it :-))
1962 Lancer parts car

4spdwing

Troy, I am redoing my heater box now on my Superbird . Where did you get the number stamp? Mine is about wore off. Thanks Tom
440 4bbl 4spd Superbird  383 Auto Dart GTSport

twodko

Hi John,

I rebuilt/restored my 69's heater box several months ago and used SEM satin black for the case and SEM Titanium for the sheet metal. I media blasted all the metal parts at a buddies house and it looks awesome with fresh paint. DMT resto kits are the best out there IMO. Good luck and post up when you can. Cheers

Tom
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

66FBCharger

'69 Charger R/T 440 4 speed T5, '70 Road Runner 440+6 4 speed, '73 'Cuda 340 4 speed, '66 Charger 383 Auto
SOLD!:'69 Charger R/T S.E. 440 4 speed 3.54 Dana rolling body

twodko

Hot water, dish soap, brush and sponge type scouring pad.

Tom
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

Paul 500

68 Charger R/T
69 Charger 500

4spdwing

440 4bbl 4spd Superbird  383 Auto Dart GTSport

bull

Anyone want to lend me their stamp? I'll pay shipping both ways.

By the way, I had all my heater box cover plates powder coated semi gloss black: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,59526.0.html

You have to check out Shakey's thread: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,13150.0.html