Electric Pusher fan with good experience - Daytona cooling issue.

[hemi68charger]

Does the Daytona use the same seal between the bottom of the core support and the k frame and the foam seal between the top radiator tank and top of core support? 90 % of the birds i have seen have those seal's missing.Makes a big difference.

I have both the upper and lower foam seals in place.........

[superbirdtom]

Well, I have taken out the thermostat and all looks clean. Don't trust it since I didn't put it in and the car probably doesn't have a whole lot of miles since Jules did the motor. The radiator does look clean inside and it is a 4-core. Hopefully the seals from Mike at Dayclona will be in soon and I can tinker with it over the long weekend.

Troy

My one bird is missing all the seals and never had a problem with overheating until i changed to the wrong march pullys one time.Does dayclona have all the pop rivits to install the seals??

[hemi68charger]

Well, I have taken out the thermostat and all looks clean. Don't trust it since I didn't put it in and the car probably doesn't have a whole lot of miles since Jules did the motor. The radiator does look clean inside and it is a 4-core. Hopefully the seals from Mike at Dayclona will be in soon and I can tinker with it over the long weekend.

Troy

My one bird is missing all the seals and never had a problem with overheating until i changed to the wrong march pullys one time.Does dayclona have all the pop rivits to install the seals??

Yeap, he's sending me rivets as well. All the pulleys on the car are correct for a 440 non-a/c car. There are only two that I can see missing. Like Geno eluded to earlier, I can't see the effect the lower valance-to-kmember seal does on routing the air flow into the radiator. That area in question is behind the radiator. Guess I'll take the old thermostat and put it in slow boiling water with my cooking thermometer and see if it was working.... I'm still going to put in a new 160 though........ I'm still contemplating the push electric fan..

Troy

[hemi68charger]

Here's the fan I have.. Not sure if it's original. I'm thinking not... I haven't owned a car with a regular fan in like, forever. Everything I've own has been a clutch fan. I changed out the thermostat and waiting on the missing seals for the cone. Hopefully this weekend I'll have more insight on the exact problem...

[hemi68charger]

I'm now contemplating installing an electric pusher fan on my Daytona to compensate for the street traffic down here in the South, added insurance without a big visual impact. Looking for proven good experience in any brand of fan. I see the Be-Cool fans at Summit and Jegs, but was wondering if the $100+ price was reflective of the value. Are there cheaper, but just as good, fans out there? I think I have the car's temperature wooes figured out. I still have a lot of heat in the engine compartment, but that may be something inheritantly common amongst beaked Mopars.

As much as I would hate to do it, I'm thinking of removing the rear eccentric cover/seals in hopes it would create an opening for heat escape from the back of the engine bay. I'm also going to poly/ceramic coat the exterior of the exhaust manifolds for further heat reduction.

Troy

[moparstuart]

I'm now contemplating installing an electric pusher fan on my Daytona to compensate for the street traffic down here in the South, added insurance without a big visual impact. Looking for proven good experience in any brand of fan. I see the Be-Cool fans at Summit and Jegs, but was wondering if the $100+ price was reflective of the value. Are there cheaper, but just as good, fans out there? I think I have the car's temperature wooes figured out. I still have a lot of heat in the engine compartment, but that may be something inheritantly common amongst beaked Mopars.

As much as I would hate to do it, I'm thinking of removing the rear eccentric cover/seals in hopes it would create an opening for heat escape from the back of the engine bay. I'm also going to poly/ceramic coat the exterior of the exhaust manifolds for further heat reduction.

Troy

I own a salvage yard so they are a dime a dozen for me I used a 96 corolla ac/ condenser pusher fan , wired it to a lighted toggle switch in the console . Works great if i get in traffic I just flip it on.

[hotrod98]

Before I switched to alcohol in my last dragster, I used a fan setup out of some foreign car. Not only did it work great, but it was fairly quiet and was extremely reliable. May have been a Honda setup. The quiet part wasn't much use while making a pass but it sure was nice when the car was sitting in the pits and the fan was running while cooling the motor down.

Oh, and it was dirt cheap. When it comes time to install one on my clone I'll definitely get a used OEM style setup of some kind.

[moparstuart]

Before I switched to alcohol in my last dragster, I used a fan setup out of some foreign car. Not only did it work great, but it was fairly quiet and was extremely reliable. May have been a Honda setup. The quiet part wasn't much use while making a pass but it sure was nice when the car was sitting in the pits and the fan was running while cooling the motor down.

Oh, and it was dirt cheap. When it comes time to install one on my clone I'll definitely get a used OEM style setup of some kind.

mine has a small metal schroud enclosing around it should be pretty durable

[BigBlockSam]

you need to figure out the cfm's of the fan and buy the largest one you can get in there . a small fan won't do much good and will block some natural  air flow . 

[FJ5WING]

hey Troy,

I understand the value of the second hand parts but do yourself a favor and buy a complete kit that has provisions for direct control. I bought a kit around 1987 and felt I needed to not use the enclosed thermostat.

I wanted to control the fan according to traffic and ambient temps. I wanted to throw the fan on before she started cooking. I put a small toggle in the ashtray.

[nascarxx29]

You can have it come on at a preset temp.Or even goes as far to have it running when parked.To eliminate high underhood temperatures which heat soaks carb and fuel from lack of flowing air.By either a temp sensor or a timer.And still have a toggle over ride switch

[hotrod98]

Some of the new trucks have fairly large electric fans. I'm going to check into that.

[Daytona R/T SE]

I read in one of the Mopar magazines recently (forgot which one  )  That the Dodge Viper electric fans work well in the old muscle cars, so much so that MP is offering it in a kit....


This sounded good for my clone...


I wish I could remember where I read that...

DAMN!  

I'm not even 50 yet  

[nascarxx29]

The only thing I seen that refered to a viper fan was this
I think if your were to get the right combo .You wont even need a belt driven fan.Belt would just be there for the water pump

Re: electric fans


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
i have honestly heard of people in miami that have gotten over 200 flywheel horses from people who have installed electric fans i mean that thing is pulling enough to put a load on the motorand has anyone though of putting fans in the back or radiator and other combos, i know one popular diesel mechanic in miami that programs diablosport tuners that adds dodge viper electric fans no over heating and great cooling

[nascarxx29]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5007266?part=dcc-5007266


http://www.streetperformance.com/part/mopar-performance/fan-electric/686996-5007266.html

[70Sbird]

Troy,
Just a few thoughts here.
It looks like there is a lot of advice on cooling the engine and electric fans. That is all good if your coolant temp is running hot
I has similar problems on my Superbird. The engine coolant temp never got overly hot (in my opinion), but I also melted the wiring straps and my master cylinder (brake fluid) is very hot after extended running at highway speed. I bought new repro straps (from another supplier) and they lasted fine. The plastic you have might have been a lesser quality and thus melted.
I don't have the heat stove on my drivers side manifold that may act as a heat shield as well. I'm probably going to move up to DOT 5 fluid and fab up a heat shield for the M/C. As Dave K said earlier. welcome to the world of heat issues and Wing Cars!
Scott

[70Sbird]

By the way,
I have the 7 blade MP clutch fan and all of the nose seals in place. My coolant temp almost never goes north of 200 degrees and  have a 180 degreee t-Sat

[hemi68charger]

Hey Scott.
The poor quality strap is a possibility. Thanks for bringing that up. I too will get the straps again. Do you remember the vendor you used? Also, guess it would be a good idea to replace the brake fluid. Guess that'll be another thread on "purging" out old brake fluid.

Troy

[BigBlockSam]

guess it would be a good idea to replace the brake fluid. Guess that'll be another thread on "purging" out old brake fluid.

easy , figure out which one  you want to do first , front or rear . open both bleeders at wheel . sit and have a beer . keep an eye on fluid level. when low add some more . until fluid is all replaced . it'll take a while  and gravity will do the rest . then take two aspirins and call me in the morning 

[hemi68charger]

guess it would be a good idea to replace the brake fluid. Guess that'll be another thread on "purging" out old brake fluid.

easy , figure out which one  you want to do first , front or rear . open both bleeders at wheel . sit and have a beer . keep an eye on fluid level. when low add some more . until fluid is all replaced . it'll take a while  and gravity will do the rest . then take two aspirins and call me in the morning 

Easy enough.. But, if the old fluid is clean, and the new fluid is clean, then when do you stop? Or, is it obvious? I hate asking questions that may seem obvious, but I haven't done it "all" yet... 

[BigBlockSam]

i waited till there was almost no fliud in the master cylinder just the fluid in the lines . then i filled it again .if any air gets in there , gravity will get it out too . my fluid was very dark so it was easy to see when it was all out .takes a while .

or you can buy a bleeder kit and do it real fast 

[hemi68charger]

DOing some reading, it seems I should either go with DOT 5 or DOT 5.1> According to the readings, the problem with 5 is compressibility since it's silicone and has a higher boiling point. It is also affected by moisture more so than 3/4 and 5.1. It is good for show cars since it doesn't affect paint and plastic like the glycol equivalent.

Does the DOT 5 really give the system that much of a spongy feel?

[hotrod98]

Troy, check this out.   http://www.brakebleeder.com/

[hemi68charger]

After some more research and suggestions,,,,,, it looks like I'll use either the ATF Blue Dot 4 or something like Wilwood 600. Both are compatible with Dot 3/4 but have a much higher boiling point.

[moparchris]

Troy,
Just my  on the brake fluid issue, but we've always updated the cars to Dot 5 silicone fluid.  It does not create a "spongy pedal", it does not hurt any hose or promote leaks and it will not hurt paint.  It is virtually a "no-brainer" to do this update.  Per the mil-spec requirement Dot 5 fluid must be missible, (mixable) with other fluids in the case of an emergency.  In short the military specs Dot 5 for combat vehicles because of its superior performance.  It is usually purple in color which aids in your ability to distinguise it from non-silicone based fluids.
Do not confuse dot 5 fluid with "synthetic" fluid which is on the shelf at many local auto parts stores.  They are not the same animal and the synthetic fluid, "from my experience" is the one to stay away from. 
Dot 5 silicone is available from NAPA auto parts on the local level.