Electric Pusher fan with good experience - Daytona cooling issue.

hemi68charger · June 28, 2009, 08:11:40 AM

Hey gang..
Well, took 'Tona out for her maiden voyage to the local street meet and she was ok. BUT, she REALLY got hot. So hot under the hood that it melted the white harness/hose loops that support the washer bottle squirter hoses on the passenger side. Initially, I thought it was a lean condition for it was in the area of the exhaust manifolds. I took the plugs out this morning before Church and well, they look normal. So, it has to be coolant temperatures. She really belged up the coolant when we got there. As far as the components go, the radiator "Looks" fine, but who knows what's going on inside. The car probably doesn't have a lot of miles on her since the engine compartment was detailed with a new 440 back in '07. From my limited and recently expanding Daytona cranial database, I'm missing two seals. One is the obvious lower valance to k-member seal and the other is the passenger side vertical seal between the z-bar and radiator cowl.

Not knowing the condition of the radiator, I'm going to pull it and have it checked. Any of you wing fellas experience this before? I'm sure that's a stupid question. Also, the original clutch-style fan has been replaced with a direct fan from a previous owner.

Again, it got so hot under there, it melted the white tube loops and I believe caused the brake fluid to get rather hot....

OK, gotta get ready for Church........ I'd appreciate ya'll's experiences....

Troy

1: Passenger side with missing seal.
2: Driver's side with appropriate seals
3: Fan set-up currently in car.

Troy

nascarxx29 · June 28, 2009, 08:26:01 AM

Heres just a few of the top of my head suggestions as I had hot running mopars hot Maybe a clutch fan and lower thermostat and how many blades in the water pump and what speed if the pulleys are right is water pump spinning at and can you see water movement in radiator with cap off looking in and throttleing up .And what strength is your antifreeze.And make sure you got good air flow to the rad and seals in place where as required .Hold a dollar bill in front of grille opening hood closed.I used a flexalite 1318 on my friends daytona that ran hot .Fan is noisy but at idle pulls in tremondous amounts of air.I remember when I lived in TX driving with the defroster on in the summer .The heater core was a second radiator

y3chargerrt · June 28, 2009, 09:08:08 AM

I just had the radiator recored recently. It was done with a stock 2 core back in 99 because that was all the guy could fit in my 055 radiator.My charger didnt overheat but I didnt trust it on hot days with the air on. My new radiator guy put whats called an XL core in it. It looks great and the radiator must weigh 20 pounds more then it did before. My radiator guy says these cores will cool anything.

A383Wing · June 28, 2009, 10:27:26 AM

I have a 3 core 26" rad in the purple car...using a 19" 7 blade fan coupled to a fan clutch without the spring in front, which means it's engaged more it low speed than at higher RPM (once the car is cruising along, there is enough air flow through the radiator to keep it cool) I have all the seals in place except the one that runs under the valance to the "K" member...I left that one out. I have no overheat issues unless it's a hot day and after a long run it tends to get warm after tooling around town. I mounted an electric pusher fan in the nosecone to help with the hotter days. Really have not used it all that much.

I'm thinking a partially plugged radiator might be your issue, maybe the T-stat is wrong temp....mine likes the 180* version...one more thing, are you running a non-ac water pump & pulleys? If they are not matched, that will cause over heat also....

Probably no help here...but I tried

Bryan

BigBlockSam · June 28, 2009, 11:50:59 AM

check the timing . a little to advance will make ya run hot

hemi68charger · June 28, 2009, 03:23:13 PM

Thanks guys..
I'm going to replace the thermostat first of all. Install missing seals and get the radiator checked out. The car has probably been sitting for a long time since it's engine rebuild detail back in '07. The plugs looked fine, so it's not a lean heating situation....
The pulley configuration is proper, but not sure about the water pump since I'm not the one who put it in.

Troy

moparchris · June 28, 2009, 06:49:49 PM

Troy,
Living in Phoenix (aka, face of the sun) I had similiar problems with my Daytona all the time except on the coolest of days. Of course I went through all of the typical stuff that you are thinking of doing but what helped the most was changing the water pump. I went to a ""Flow Master" water pump and it dropped the running temp by 15 degrees. These pumps have a cavitation plate on the fins which helps increase coolant flow through the system but they retain an outward stock appearance. These pumps are available I believe through Summit, among other places but you will not be able to just walk into your local auto parts store and pick one up. Hope this helps.

hemi68charger · June 28, 2009, 10:17:02 PM

Quote from: moparchris on June 28, 2009, 06:49:49 PM
Troy,
Living in Phoenix (aka, face of the sun) I had similiar problems with my Daytona all the time except on the coolest of days. Of course I went through all of the typical stuff that you are thinking of doing but what helped the most was changing the water pump. I went to a ""Flow Master" water pump and it dropped the running temp by 15 degrees. These pumps have a cavitation plate on the fins which helps increase coolant flow through the system but they retain an outward stock appearance. These pumps are available I believe through Summit, among other places but you will not be able to just walk into your local auto parts store and pick one up. Hope this helps.

Hey there Chris..
Any help will be greatly appreciated and experimented with. In this case, why not get the best available product.

Cheers,
Troy

FJ5WING · June 29, 2009, 07:40:44 AM

hey Troy,

If youre still having trouble you could solve your heat issue the way I did.

I stuck an electric pusher in the car. I used it without the included thermostat, I just used an on/off toggle placed in the ash tray.I plan on doing it again when I reassemble the car. Its really concealed in a wingcar. Nobody knew about it unless I told them.

Dave Kanofsky · June 29, 2009, 08:21:45 AM

Troy -
I think every wing car has had heat issues. This is the ugly side of wing cars.

Be sure to see the post on Moparstyle by Kismgby (JoAnne) - here's a link -
http://www.moparstyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5218

JoAnne has the A4 silver Daytona that has done at least 4or 5 Hot Rod Power Tour long hauls - she has won the battle of overheating after many hot days in a wing car. Drop her a PM or Email - she is a good friend of mine and is more than willing to share her experiences. Before the Daytona she had a SuperBird that stayed cool too, and she does a lot of her own work on them.

Wing it!
Dave

Aero426 · June 29, 2009, 08:38:16 AM

Quote from: FJ5WING on June 29, 2009, 07:40:44 AM
hey Troy,

If youre still having trouble you could solve your heat issue the way I did.

I stuck an electric pusher in the car. I used it without the included thermostat, I just used an on/off toggle placed in the ash tray.I plan on doing it again when I reassemble the car. Its really concealed in a wingcar. Nobody knew about it unless I told them.

I agree. A good radiator and the pusher fan controlled from the cockpit is the way to go. Notabird has one on their Daytona and it works pretty good.

hemi68charger · June 29, 2009, 08:46:30 AM

Quote from: FJ5WING on June 29, 2009, 07:40:44 AM
hey Troy,

If youre still having trouble you could solve your heat issue the way I did.

I stuck an electric pusher in the car. I used it without the included thermostat, I just used an on/off toggle placed in the ash tray.I plan on doing it again when I reassemble the car. Its really concealed in a wingcar. Nobody knew about it unless I told them.

Sounds like a good back-up if my other plans don't help. What I'm planning on doing is:

1. replace missing seals (Thanks to Mike over at Dayclona for helping me out there)
2. new water pump, would like high volume version similar to Chris' suggestion of Flow Master (Can't find it any more on Summit, any other suggestions of proven/used OEM-style mechanical pump
3. change out thermostat with 160 ( I'm assuming that's what is in it, but since I didn't put it in, my assumption is it's not working or wrong).
&
4. keep the direct drive / non-clutch type fan that's in it. (would prefer the clutch type since that's what it came with - 216 fan and 070 clutch)

Boy, I'm getting my teeth cut as a Winged car owner, that's for sure. I'm sure most of you wingers have "Been there, done that". Now, it's my turn.

A383Wing · June 29, 2009, 09:04:16 AM

Quote from: FJ5WING on June 29, 2009, 07:40:44 AM

I stuck an electric pusher in the car. I used it without the included thermostat, I just used an on/off toggle placed in the ash tray.I plan on doing it again when I reassemble the car. Its really concealed in a wingcar. Nobody knew about it unless I told them.

I did the same thing on our Daytona...it's there to help, not to cure the initial problem

moparstuart · June 29, 2009, 10:02:15 AM

I agree use a pusher fan , I did also

mopar_nut_440_6 · June 29, 2009, 12:32:11 PM

Does anybody know what Mike came up with to cure his issue with Angrier? I know the stroker was running very hot for him.

notabird · June 29, 2009, 05:24:52 PM

Troy, looks like some tubes are patched on your radiator in the picture.A good rad shop can put a high effciency 4 core rad in the original tanks,that will help a lot and I put 2 small electric fans in front of the rad,that helps in traffic if you turn them on before it gets hot.Brent

hemi68charger · June 29, 2009, 06:05:27 PM

Quote from: notabird on June 29, 2009, 05:24:52 PM
Troy, looks like some tubes are patched on your radiator in the picture.A good rad shop can put a high effciency 4 core rad in the original tanks,that will help a lot and I put 2 small electric fans in front of the rad,that helps in traffic if you turn them on before it gets hot.Brent

I think some of the imperfections on the radiator are debris from driving it. I'm going to do the simple things first then if it's a case where I need to recore the radiator, I'll do that and the external push-fans as a last resort.

Thanks for the input Brent..

Troy

NYCMille · June 29, 2009, 10:26:35 PM

Troy -

I just dealt with this, but it'll be a long email so call me... you have a pm

Rolling_Thunder · June 29, 2009, 10:53:23 PM

You should look for a water pump with 8 blades instead of the typical 6... sometimes If i remember correctly I would order a water pump for a 1970 Coronet Wagon with a 440... (if i remember correctly) and it was a heavier duty pump... might just be easier to go aftermarket like an Edelbrock or something like that.

moparchris · June 29, 2009, 10:56:23 PM

Troy,
I dug through my receipt package and I believe the Summit part number of the water pump I told you about is : BRA-1679. Double check this but I think if you go on the Summit web site and type in this number you should find the pump. I am using one of these pumps on my 528 stroker hemi 68 Charger and it is helping. Hope this helps.
Chris

superbirdtom · June 29, 2009, 11:05:14 PM

Quote from: hemi68charger on June 29, 2009, 08:46:30 AM
Quote from: FJ5WING on June 29, 2009, 07:40:44 AM
hey Troy,

If youre still having trouble you could solve your heat issue the way I did.

I stuck an electric pusher in the car. I used it without the included thermostat, I just used an on/off toggle placed in the ash tray.I plan on doing it again when I reassemble the car. Its really concealed in a wingcar. Nobody knew about it unless I told them.

Sounds like a good back-up if my other plans don't help. What I'm planning on doing is:

1. replace missing seals (Thanks to Mike over at Dayclona for helping me out there)
2. new water pump, would like high volume version similar to Chris' suggestion of Flow Master (Can't find it any more on Summit, any other suggestions of proven/used OEM-style mechanical pump
3. change out thermostat with 160 ( I'm assuming that's what is in it, but since I didn't put it in, my assumption is it's not working or wrong).
&
4. keep the direct drive / non-clutch type fan that's in it. (would prefer the clutch type since that's what it came with - 216 fan and 070 clutch)

Boy, I'm getting my teeth cut as a Winged car owner, that's for sure. I'm sure most of you wingers have "Been there, done that". Now, it's my turn.

>>>>Got the same thing on mine for those extra hot days idling through town. <<<<

nascarxx29 · June 30, 2009, 04:50:08 AM

I been down the mopar overheating road many times.Ive got good results using this fan flexalite 1318 pictured bellow .With hood down and idling.3-4 feet away you can feel the air being pulled into the small nose inlet.Before I even tried the pusher fan.The water pump that had more Impellers .Was one for the AC cars .But now summit or some one has the flow cooler type improved design water pumps.With that and high flow robertshaw thermostat.And antifreeze strength reduced .As it absorbs heat.And there that stuff think its called water wetter .That drag racers use.And you could have the original 055 3 core rad changed over to a 4 core wouldnt hurt either

Flexalite Fan Blade - 1970-1974 Dodge D300 Pickup FLEXALITE 18-1/4 1300 SERIES FLEX FAN, BLUE -- Made With Stainless Steel Blades, Belt-Driven, Designed To Deliver Maximum Airflow At Low RPM, And The Least Amount Of Engine Loading At High RPM, Provides Less Resistance At Highway Speeds To Deliver More Horsepower And Better Gas Mileage, With 10,000 RPM Rating, Must Be Used With A Fan Shroud, With Manufacturer's Limited 1-Year Warranty

http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=0&Nr=AND(make:Dodge,model:D300+Pickup,year:1974,part:Fan+Blade,brand:Flexalite)&roicid=B1172613097W45e4a7e90676a&roikwd=Dodge+D300%20Pickup+Fan%20Blade+Flexalite&csid=cs10930876944a3a998d8c2c5

hemi68charger · June 30, 2009, 07:34:54 PM

Well, I have taken out the thermostat and all looks clean. Don't trust it since I didn't put it in and the car probably doesn't have a whole lot of miles since Jules did the motor. The radiator does look clean inside and it is a 4-core. Hopefully the seals from Mike at Dayclona will be in soon and I can tinker with it over the long weekend.

Troy

62 Max · June 30, 2009, 08:02:13 PM

Does the Daytona use the same seal between the bottom of the core support and the k frame and the foam seal between the top radiator tank and top of core support? 90 % of the birds i have seen have those seal's missing.Makes a big difference.

hemigeno · June 30, 2009, 08:10:18 PM

Yes, the Daytonas use pretty much the same seal arrangement. There is a closed-cell foam strip between the top tank and radiator yoke, as well as a strip between the bottom tank and the radiator yoke. Those would help keep the air from by-passing the radiator core.

In my mind, the K-frame seal wouldn't add much effectiveness to the cooling system if those two foam seals were in place, but perhaps I'm not thinking about it correctly. I thought the K-frame seal was more of an aerodynamic add-on rather than a cooling aid...

hemi68charger · July 01, 2009, 09:09:54 AM

Quote from: 62 Max on June 30, 2009, 08:02:13 PM
Does the Daytona use the same seal between the bottom of the core support and the k frame and the foam seal between the top radiator tank and top of core support? 90 % of the birds i have seen have those seal's missing.Makes a big difference.

I have both the upper and lower foam seals in place.........

superbirdtom · July 01, 2009, 10:20:24 AM

Quote from: hemi68charger on June 30, 2009, 07:34:54 PM
Well, I have taken out the thermostat and all looks clean. Don't trust it since I didn't put it in and the car probably doesn't have a whole lot of miles since Jules did the motor. The radiator does look clean inside and it is a 4-core. Hopefully the seals from Mike at Dayclona will be in soon and I can tinker with it over the long weekend.

Troy

My one bird is missing all the seals and never had a problem with overheating until i changed to the wrong march pullys one time.Does dayclona have all the pop rivits to install the seals??

hemi68charger · July 01, 2009, 10:53:49 AM

Quote from: superbirdtom on July 01, 2009, 10:20:24 AM
Quote from: hemi68charger on June 30, 2009, 07:34:54 PM
Well, I have taken out the thermostat and all looks clean. Don't trust it since I didn't put it in and the car probably doesn't have a whole lot of miles since Jules did the motor. The radiator does look clean inside and it is a 4-core. Hopefully the seals from Mike at Dayclona will be in soon and I can tinker with it over the long weekend.

Troy
My one bird is missing all the seals and never had a problem with overheating until i changed to the wrong march pullys one time.Does dayclona have all the pop rivits to install the seals??

Yeap, he's sending me rivets as well. All the pulleys on the car are correct for a 440 non-a/c car. There are only two that I can see missing. Like Geno eluded to earlier, I can't see the effect the lower valance-to-kmember seal does on routing the air flow into the radiator. That area in question is behind the radiator. Guess I'll take the old thermostat and put it in slow boiling water with my cooking thermometer and see if it was working.... I'm still going to put in a new 160 though........ I'm still contemplating the push electric fan..

Troy

hemi68charger · July 01, 2009, 07:05:26 PM

Here's the fan I have.. Not sure if it's original. I'm thinking not... I haven't owned a car with a regular fan in like, forever. Everything I've own has been a clutch fan. I changed out the thermostat and waiting on the missing seals for the cone. Hopefully this weekend I'll have more insight on the exact problem...

hemi68charger · July 08, 2009, 01:35:09 PM

I'm now contemplating installing an electric pusher fan on my Daytona to compensate for the street traffic down here in the South, added insurance without a big visual impact. Looking for proven good experience in any brand of fan. I see the Be-Cool fans at Summit and Jegs, but was wondering if the $100+ price was reflective of the value. Are there cheaper, but just as good, fans out there? I think I have the car's temperature wooes figured out. I still have a lot of heat in the engine compartment, but that may be something inheritantly common amongst beaked Mopars.

As much as I would hate to do it, I'm thinking of removing the rear eccentric cover/seals in hopes it would create an opening for heat escape from the back of the engine bay. I'm also going to poly/ceramic coat the exterior of the exhaust manifolds for further heat reduction.

Troy

moparstuart · July 08, 2009, 01:43:58 PM

Quote from: hemi68charger on July 08, 2009, 01:35:09 PM
I'm now contemplating installing an electric pusher fan on my Daytona to compensate for the street traffic down here in the South, added insurance without a big visual impact. Looking for proven good experience in any brand of fan. I see the Be-Cool fans at Summit and Jegs, but was wondering if the $100+ price was reflective of the value. Are there cheaper, but just as good, fans out there? I think I have the car's temperature wooes figured out. I still have a lot of heat in the engine compartment, but that may be something inheritantly common amongst beaked Mopars.

As much as I would hate to do it, I'm thinking of removing the rear eccentric cover/seals in hopes it would create an opening for heat escape from the back of the engine bay. I'm also going to poly/ceramic coat the exterior of the exhaust manifolds for further heat reduction.

Troy

I own a salvage yard so they are a dime a dozen for me I used a 96 corolla ac/ condenser pusher fan , wired it to a lighted toggle switch in the console . Works great if i get in traffic I just flip it on.

hotrod98 · July 08, 2009, 03:18:55 PM

Before I switched to alcohol in my last dragster, I used a fan setup out of some foreign car. Not only did it work great, but it was fairly quiet and was extremely reliable. May have been a Honda setup. The quiet part wasn't much use while making a pass but it sure was nice when the car was sitting in the pits and the fan was running while cooling the motor down.

Oh, and it was dirt cheap. When it comes time to install one on my clone I'll definitely get a used OEM style setup of some kind.

moparstuart · July 08, 2009, 04:02:10 PM

Quote from: hotrod98 on July 08, 2009, 03:18:55 PM
Before I switched to alcohol in my last dragster, I used a fan setup out of some foreign car. Not only did it work great, but it was fairly quiet and was extremely reliable. May have been a Honda setup. The quiet part wasn't much use while making a pass but it sure was nice when the car was sitting in the pits and the fan was running while cooling the motor down.

Oh, and it was dirt cheap. When it comes time to install one on my clone I'll definitely get a used OEM style setup of some kind.

mine has a small metal schroud enclosing around it should be pretty durable

BigBlockSam · July 08, 2009, 04:29:40 PM

you need to figure out the cfm's of the fan and buy the largest one you can get in there . a small fan won't do much good and will block some natural air flow .

FJ5WING · July 08, 2009, 05:43:28 PM

hey Troy,

I understand the value of the second hand parts but do yourself a favor and buy a complete kit that has provisions for direct control. I bought a kit around 1987 and felt I needed to not use the enclosed thermostat.

I wanted to control the fan according to traffic and ambient temps. I wanted to throw the fan on before she started cooking. I put a small toggle in the ashtray.

nascarxx29 · July 08, 2009, 06:15:08 PM

You can have it come on at a preset temp.Or even goes as far to have it running when parked.To eliminate high underhood temperatures which heat soaks carb and fuel from lack of flowing air.By either a temp sensor or a timer.And still have a toggle over ride switch

hotrod98 · July 08, 2009, 08:40:42 PM

Some of the new trucks have fairly large electric fans. I'm going to check into that.

Daytona R/T SE · July 08, 2009, 09:05:04 PM

I read in one of the Mopar magazines recently (forgot which one

) That the Dodge Viper electric fans work well in the old muscle cars, so much so that MP is offering it in a kit....

This sounded good for my clone...

I wish I could remember where I read that...

DAMN!

I'm not even 50 yet

nascarxx29 · July 08, 2009, 09:52:44 PM

The only thing I seen that refered to a viper fan was this
I think if your were to get the right combo .You wont even need a belt driven fan.Belt would just be there for the water pump

Re: electric fans

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
i have honestly heard of people in miami that have gotten over 200 flywheel horses from people who have installed electric fans i mean that thing is pulling enough to put a load on the motorand has anyone though of putting fans in the back or radiator and other combos, i know one popular diesel mechanic in miami that programs diablosport tuners that adds dodge viper electric fans no over heating and great cooling

nascarxx29 · July 08, 2009, 10:01:06 PM

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5007266?part=dcc-5007266

http://www.streetperformance.com/part/mopar-performance/fan-electric/686996-5007266.html

70Sbird · July 09, 2009, 10:59:50 PM

Troy,
Just a few thoughts here.
It looks like there is a lot of advice on cooling the engine and electric fans. That is all good if your coolant temp is running hot
I has similar problems on my Superbird. The engine coolant temp never got overly hot (in my opinion), but I also melted the wiring straps and my master cylinder (brake fluid) is very hot after extended running at highway speed. I bought new repro straps (from another supplier) and they lasted fine. The plastic you have might have been a lesser quality and thus melted.
I don't have the heat stove on my drivers side manifold that may act as a heat shield as well. I'm probably going to move up to DOT 5 fluid and fab up a heat shield for the M/C. As Dave K said earlier. welcome to the world of heat issues and Wing Cars!
Scott

70Sbird · July 09, 2009, 11:02:53 PM

By the way,
I have the 7 blade MP clutch fan and all of the nose seals in place. My coolant temp almost never goes north of 200 degrees and have a 180 degreee t-Sat

hemi68charger · July 10, 2009, 08:16:47 AM

Hey Scott.
The poor quality strap is a possibility. Thanks for bringing that up. I too will get the straps again. Do you remember the vendor you used? Also, guess it would be a good idea to replace the brake fluid. Guess that'll be another thread on "purging" out old brake fluid.

Troy

BigBlockSam · July 10, 2009, 10:40:33 AM

Quoteguess it would be a good idea to replace the brake fluid. Guess that'll be another thread on "purging" out old brake fluid.

easy , figure out which one you want to do first , front or rear . open both bleeders at wheel . sit and have a beer . keep an eye on fluid level. when low add some more . until fluid is all replaced . it'll take a while and gravity will do the rest . then take two aspirins and call me in the morning

hemi68charger · July 10, 2009, 10:52:36 AM

Quote from: BigBlockSam on July 10, 2009, 10:40:33 AM
Quoteguess it would be a good idea to replace the brake fluid. Guess that'll be another thread on "purging" out old brake fluid.

easy , figure out which one you want to do first , front or rear . open both bleeders at wheel . sit and have a beer . keep an eye on fluid level. when low add some more . until fluid is all replaced . it'll take a while and gravity will do the rest . then take two aspirins and call me in the morning

Easy enough.. But, if the old fluid is clean, and the new fluid is clean, then when do you stop? Or, is it obvious? I hate asking questions that may seem obvious, but I haven't done it "all" yet...

BigBlockSam · July 10, 2009, 11:02:18 AM

i waited till there was almost no fliud in the master cylinder just the fluid in the lines . then i filled it again .if any air gets in there , gravity will get it out too . my fluid was very dark so it was easy to see when it was all out .takes a while .

or you can buy a bleeder kit and do it real fast

hemi68charger · July 10, 2009, 11:36:10 AM

DOing some reading, it seems I should either go with DOT 5 or DOT 5.1> According to the readings, the problem with 5 is compressibility since it's silicone and has a higher boiling point. It is also affected by moisture more so than 3/4 and 5.1. It is good for show cars since it doesn't affect paint and plastic like the glycol equivalent.

Does the DOT 5 really give the system that much of a spongy feel?

hotrod98 · July 10, 2009, 12:32:37 PM

Troy, check this out. http://www.brakebleeder.com/

hemi68charger · July 10, 2009, 01:31:37 PM

After some more research and suggestions,,,,,, it looks like I'll use either the ATF Blue Dot 4 or something like Wilwood 600. Both are compatible with Dot 3/4 but have a much higher boiling point.

moparchris · July 10, 2009, 05:01:08 PM

Troy,
Just my

on the brake fluid issue, but we've always updated the cars to Dot 5 silicone fluid. It does not create a "spongy pedal", it does not hurt any hose or promote leaks and it will not hurt paint. It is virtually a "no-brainer" to do this update. Per the mil-spec requirement Dot 5 fluid must be missible, (mixable) with other fluids in the case of an emergency. In short the military specs Dot 5 for combat vehicles because of its superior performance. It is usually purple in color which aids in your ability to distinguise it from non-silicone based fluids.
Do not confuse dot 5 fluid with "synthetic" fluid which is on the shelf at many local auto parts stores. They are not the same animal and the synthetic fluid, "from my experience" is the one to stay away from.
Dot 5 silicone is available from NAPA auto parts on the local level.

70Sbird · July 15, 2009, 04:01:44 PM

Quote from: hemi68charger on July 10, 2009, 08:16:47 AM
Hey Scott.
The poor quality strap is a possibility. Thanks for bringing that up. I too will get the straps again. Do you remember the vendor you used? Also, guess it would be a good idea to replace the brake fluid. Guess that'll be another thread on "purging" out old brake fluid.

Troy

Troy,
I don't remember who I got the new straps from. I
bought them from a vendor in 2004 at the Charlotte AutoFair, so I don't have a receipt either to refer back to.
I remember the first set was "whiter" than the second set (white like painted , or a piece of paper), the new ones are kind of a clear/white or milky clear. The first set lasted about 3 weeks , the current straps get pretty soft after an hour or so of run time but are still in place after 5 years.

moparstuart · September 27, 2011, 04:29:35 PM

found some good cooling fans today ( cheap) LOL free in my salvage yard
97-99 caddy catera's have dual ( two) pushers up in front of the a/c condenser
they are perfect with shrouds built on . These caddys are showing up in the u pull it yards because the motors are not that greatest . So you should be able to buy them pretty cheap . Great choice if your on a budget or for a clone to make sure you engine stays cool with that nose up there .
.

oldcarnut · October 21, 2015, 08:58:35 PM

So its 6 years later and was wondering how these fans worked out or what's being used now? After adding AC I know I may as well add a pusher while its being assembled.

moparstuart · October 24, 2015, 07:43:41 AM

Quote from: oldcarnut on October 21, 2015, 08:58:35 PM
So its 6 years later and was wondering how these fans worked out or what's being used now? After adding AC I know I may as well add a pusher while its being assembled.

still love my u pick it caddy fans still cool great and push alot of air

daytonalo · October 24, 2015, 11:05:01 AM

Is it possible to eliminate water pump driven fan all together with the addition of electric fan ? Just like modern cars do

BigBlockSam · October 24, 2015, 05:56:31 PM

[quoteIs it possible to eliminate water pump driven fan all together with the addition of electric fan ? Just like modern cars do][/quote]

it is possible . i did it on my rod . that has a big 440 motor but it took 2 massive electric fans and a big alt to power them .

daytonalo · October 24, 2015, 07:34:13 PM

Are you sure you have fans installed for proper flow ??

BigBlockSam · October 24, 2015, 07:46:03 PM

if you go to the be cool website there is a chart . how to figure out the cfms of air you need or your size motor

daytonalo · October 24, 2015, 09:49:33 PM

I'm sure there is a chart, but I've been around long enough that there are so many variables in each application . I.E . air flow , engine tuning , etc

BigBlockSam · October 24, 2015, 09:59:19 PM

QuoteI've been around long enough that there are so many variables in each application

if you know so much why are you asking questions? it goes by hp and cu . it worked for me . now go away

daytonalo · October 24, 2015, 10:31:14 PM

Take it easy Cupcake ! Did you paint your car yet ? Try this shit again , I dare ya !!!!

birdsandbees · October 24, 2015, 10:44:01 PM

Wow..

BigBlockSam · October 24, 2015, 10:57:57 PM

lol , bro, i'm half that size now .

daytonalo · October 24, 2015, 11:08:04 PM

Nice ! BTW I gained weight , shirt stays on now !

oldcarnut · October 25, 2015, 10:48:44 PM

Quote from: moparstuart on October 24, 2015, 07:43:41 AM
Quote from: oldcarnut on October 21, 2015, 08:58:35 PM
So its 6 years later and was wondering how these fans worked out or what's being used now? After adding AC I know I may as well add a pusher while its being assembled.
still love my u pick it caddy fans still cool great and push alot of air

Any idea of the AMP draw on those Stu?

A383Wing · October 26, 2015, 12:05:37 AM

if I remember, I Think a 30a fuse protected them in the cars

moparstuart · October 26, 2015, 06:58:53 PM

Quote from: oldcarnut on October 25, 2015, 10:48:44 PM
Quote from: moparstuart on October 24, 2015, 07:43:41 AM
Quote from: oldcarnut on October 21, 2015, 08:58:35 PM
So its 6 years later and was wondering how these fans worked out or what's being used now? After adding AC I know I may as well add a pusher while its being assembled.
still love my u pick it caddy fans still cool great and push alot of air
Any idea of the AMP draw on those Stu?

it was pretty high i had to add Relays and 30 amp fuse

BigBlockSam · October 27, 2015, 09:37:58 AM

Quoteit was pretty high i had to add Relays and 30 amp fuse

thats why i upgraded to a 100 amp alt

moparstuart · October 27, 2015, 01:50:00 PM

Quote from: BigBlockSam on October 27, 2015, 09:37:58 AM
Quoteit was pretty high i had to add Relays and 30 amp fuse

thats why i upgraded to a 100 amp alt

who has those

thehemikid · October 27, 2015, 08:53:35 PM

I've been running the Mercedes Benz "Monster" fan with a Glen Ray "Max Cooling" core with good results since early July. 95* day, not a problem. The fan starts up with a spike of 50 amp then settles down to 39. Run on a circuit breaker.

Also a cs130 alt with 105 amp at Idle. Bolts up to the existing brackets, with a few washer/spacers here and there. Alt comes fairly close to the hemi head and also made a diagonal cut on the lower outside head boss for some wrench swing clearance for tightening the hot stud.

Did a Rick Ehrenburg fix with an added 8 gauge wire with fusible link to the solenoid.

Did need to cut the pulley bolt heads down and cut the pump shaft for a little more clearance to be able to pry a belt through there after trimming some more on the shroud to radiator boss area. Not for the OEM/Concourse though.

PS: Got about 1800 miles on it now.

BigBlockSam · October 27, 2015, 11:24:53 PM

Quotewho has those

Tuff Stuff , one wire alt

News:

Electric Pusher fan with good experience - Daytona cooling issue.