Electric Pusher fan with good experience - Daytona cooling issue.

[hemi68charger]

Hey gang..
Well, took 'Tona out for her maiden voyage to the local street meet and she was ok. BUT, she REALLY got hot. So hot under the hood that it melted the white harness/hose loops that support the washer bottle squirter hoses on the passenger side. Initially, I thought it was a lean condition for it was in the area of the exhaust manifolds. I took the plugs out this morning before Church and well, they look normal. So, it has to be coolant temperatures. She really belged up the coolant when we got there. As far as the components go, the radiator "Looks" fine, but who knows what's going on inside. The car probably doesn't have a lot of miles on her since the engine compartment was detailed with a new 440 back in '07. From my limited and recently expanding Daytona cranial database, I'm missing two seals. One is the obvious lower valance to k-member seal and the other is the passenger side vertical seal between the z-bar and radiator cowl.

Not knowing the condition of the radiator, I'm going to pull it and have it checked. Any of you wing fellas experience this before? I'm sure that's a stupid question. Also, the original clutch-style fan has been replaced with a direct fan from a previous owner.

Again, it got so hot under there, it melted the white tube loops and I believe caused the brake fluid to get rather hot....

OK, gotta get ready for Church........ I'd appreciate ya'll's experiences....

Troy

1: Passenger side with missing seal.
2: Driver's side with appropriate seals
3: Fan set-up currently in car.

Troy

[nascarxx29]

Heres just a few of the top of my head suggestions as I had hot running mopars hot Maybe a clutch fan and lower thermostat and how many blades in the water pump and what speed if the pulleys are right is water pump spinning at and can you see water movement in radiator with cap off looking in and throttleing up .And what strength is your antifreeze.And make sure you got good air flow to the rad and seals in place where as required .Hold a dollar bill in front of grille opening hood closed.I used a flexalite 1318 on my friends daytona that ran hot .Fan is noisy but at idle pulls in tremondous amounts of air.I remember when I lived in TX driving with the defroster on in the summer .The heater core was a second radiator

[y3chargerrt]

I just had the radiator recored recently. It was done with a stock 2 core back in 99 because that was all the guy could fit in my 055 radiator.My charger didnt overheat but I didnt trust it on hot days with the air on. My new radiator guy put whats called an XL core in it. It looks great and the radiator must weigh 20 pounds more then it did before. My radiator guy says these cores will cool anything.

[A383Wing]

I have a 3 core 26" rad in the purple car...using a 19" 7 blade fan coupled to a fan clutch without the spring in front, which means it's engaged more it low speed than at higher RPM (once the car is cruising along, there is enough air flow through the radiator to keep it cool) I have all the seals in place except the one that runs under the valance to the "K" member...I left that one out. I have no overheat issues unless it's a hot day and after a long run it tends to get warm after tooling around town. I mounted an electric pusher fan in the nosecone to help with the hotter days. Really have not used it all that much.

I'm thinking a partially plugged radiator might be your issue, maybe the T-stat is wrong temp....mine likes the 180* version...one more thing, are you running a non-ac water pump & pulleys? If they are not matched, that will cause over heat also....

Probably no help here...but I tried

Bryan

[BigBlockSam]

check the timing . a little to advance will make ya run hot 

[hemi68charger]

Thanks guys..
I'm going to replace the thermostat first of all. Install missing seals and get the radiator checked out. The car has probably been sitting for a long time since it's engine rebuild detail back in '07. The plugs looked fine, so it's not a lean heating situation....
The pulley configuration is proper, but not sure about the water pump since I'm not the one who put it in.

Troy

[moparchris]

Troy,
Living in Phoenix (aka, face of the sun) I had similiar problems with my Daytona all the time except on the coolest of days.  Of course I went through all of the typical stuff that you are thinking of doing but what helped the most was changing the water pump.  I went to a ""Flow Master" water pump and it dropped the running temp by 15 degrees.  These pumps have a cavitation plate on the fins which helps increase coolant flow through the system but they retain an outward stock appearance. These pumps are available I believe through Summit, among other places but you will not be able to just walk into your local auto parts store and pick one up. Hope this helps.

[hemi68charger]

Troy,
Living in Phoenix (aka, face of the sun) I had similiar problems with my Daytona all the time except on the coolest of days.  Of course I went through all of the typical stuff that you are thinking of doing but what helped the most was changing the water pump.  I went to a ""Flow Master" water pump and it dropped the running temp by 15 degrees.  These pumps have a cavitation plate on the fins which helps increase coolant flow through the system but they retain an outward stock appearance. These pumps are available I believe through Summit, among other places but you will not be able to just walk into your local auto parts store and pick one up. Hope this helps.

Hey there Chris..
Any help will be greatly appreciated and experimented with. In this case, why not get the best available product.

Cheers,
Troy

[FJ5WING]

hey Troy,

If youre still having trouble you could solve your heat issue the way I did.

I stuck an electric pusher in the car. I used it without the included thermostat, I just used an on/off toggle placed in the ash tray.I plan on doing it again when I reassemble the car. Its really concealed in a wingcar. Nobody knew about it unless I told them.

[Dave Kanofsky]

Troy -
I think every wing car has had heat issues.  This is the ugly side of wing cars.

Be sure to see the post on Moparstyle by Kismgby (JoAnne) - here's a link -
http://www.moparstyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5218

JoAnne has the A4 silver Daytona that has done at least 4or 5 Hot Rod Power Tour long hauls - she has won the battle of overheating after many hot days in a wing car.  Drop her a PM or Email - she is a good friend of mine and is more than willing to share her experiences.  Before the Daytona she had a SuperBird that stayed cool too, and she does a lot of her own work on them.

Wing it!
Dave

[Aero426]

hey Troy,

If youre still having trouble you could solve your heat issue the way I did.

I stuck an electric pusher in the car. I used it without the included thermostat, I just used an on/off toggle placed in the ash tray.I plan on doing it again when I reassemble the car. Its really concealed in a wingcar. Nobody knew about it unless I told them.

I agree.   A good radiator and the pusher fan controlled from the cockpit is the way to go.   Notabird has one on their Daytona and it works pretty good.   

[hemi68charger]

hey Troy,

If youre still having trouble you could solve your heat issue the way I did.

I stuck an electric pusher in the car. I used it without the included thermostat, I just used an on/off toggle placed in the ash tray.I plan on doing it again when I reassemble the car. Its really concealed in a wingcar. Nobody knew about it unless I told them.

Sounds like a good back-up if my other plans don't help. What I'm planning on doing is:

1. replace missing seals (Thanks to Mike over at Dayclona for helping me out there)
2. new water pump, would like high volume version similar to Chris' suggestion of Flow Master (Can't find it any more on Summit, any other suggestions of proven/used OEM-style mechanical pump
3. change out thermostat with 160 ( I'm assuming that's what is in it, but since I didn't put it in, my assumption is it's not working or wrong).
&
4. keep the direct drive / non-clutch type fan that's in it. (would prefer the clutch type since that's what it came with - 216 fan and 070 clutch)

Boy, I'm getting my teeth cut as a Winged car owner, that's for sure. I'm sure most of you wingers have "Been there, done that". Now, it's my turn.

[A383Wing]

I stuck an electric pusher in the car. I used it without the included thermostat, I just used an on/off toggle placed in the ash tray.I plan on doing it again when I reassemble the car. Its really concealed in a wingcar. Nobody knew about it unless I told them.

I did the same thing on our Daytona...it's there to help, not to cure the initial problem

[moparstuart]

I agree use a pusher fan , I did also

[mopar_nut_440_6]

Does anybody know what Mike came up with to cure his issue with Angrier? I know the stroker was running very hot for him.

[notabird]

Troy, looks like some tubes are patched on your radiator in the picture.A good rad shop can put a high effciency 4 core rad in the original tanks,that will help a lot and I put 2 small electric fans in front of the rad,that helps in traffic if you turn them on before it gets hot.Brent

[hemi68charger]

Troy, looks like some tubes are patched on your radiator in the picture.A good rad shop can put a high effciency 4 core rad in the original tanks,that will help a lot and I put 2 small electric fans in front of the rad,that helps in traffic if you turn them on before it gets hot.Brent

I think some of the imperfections on the radiator are debris from driving it. I'm going to do the simple things first then if it's a case where I need to recore the radiator, I'll do that and the external push-fans as a last resort.

Thanks for the input Brent..

Troy

[NYCMille]

Troy  -

I just dealt with this, but it'll be a long email so call me... you have a pm

[Rolling_Thunder]

You should look for a water pump with 8 blades instead of the typical 6...   sometimes If i remember correctly I would order a water pump for a 1970 Coronet Wagon with a 440...    (if i remember correctly) and it was a heavier duty pump...     might just be easier to go aftermarket like an Edelbrock or something like that.

[moparchris]

Troy,
I dug through my receipt package and I believe the Summit part number of the water pump I told you about is : BRA-1679.  Double check this but I think if you go on the Summit web site and type in this number you should find the pump.  I am using one of these pumps on my 528 stroker hemi 68 Charger and it is helping.  Hope this helps.
Chris

[superbirdtom]

hey Troy,

If youre still having trouble you could solve your heat issue the way I did.

I stuck an electric pusher in the car. I used it without the included thermostat, I just used an on/off toggle placed in the ash tray.I plan on doing it again when I reassemble the car. Its really concealed in a wingcar. Nobody knew about it unless I told them.

Sounds like a good back-up if my other plans don't help. What I'm planning on doing is:

1. replace missing seals (Thanks to Mike over at Dayclona for helping me out there)
2. new water pump, would like high volume version similar to Chris' suggestion of Flow Master (Can't find it any more on Summit, any other suggestions of proven/used OEM-style mechanical pump
3. change out thermostat with 160 ( I'm assuming that's what is in it, but since I didn't put it in, my assumption is it's not working or wrong).
&
4. keep the direct drive / non-clutch type fan that's in it. (would prefer the clutch type since that's what it came with - 216 fan and 070 clutch)

Boy, I'm getting my teeth cut as a Winged car owner, that's for sure. I'm sure most of you wingers have "Been there, done that". Now, it's my turn.

>>>>Got the same thing on mine for those extra hot days idling through town. <<<<

[nascarxx29]

I been down the mopar overheating road many times.Ive got good results using this fan flexalite 1318 pictured bellow .With hood down and idling.3-4 feet away you can feel the air being pulled into the small nose inlet.Before I even tried the pusher fan.The water pump that had more Impellers .Was one for the AC cars .But now summit or some one has the flow cooler type improved design water pumps.With that and high flow robertshaw thermostat.And antifreeze strength reduced .As it absorbs heat.And there that stuff think its called water wetter .That drag racers use.And you could have the original 055 3 core rad changed over to a 4 core wouldnt hurt either

Flexalite Fan Blade - 1970-1974 Dodge D300 Pickup FLEXALITE 18-1/4 1300 SERIES FLEX FAN, BLUE -- Made With Stainless Steel Blades, Belt-Driven, Designed To Deliver Maximum Airflow At Low RPM, And The Least Amount Of Engine Loading At High RPM, Provides Less Resistance At Highway Speeds To Deliver More Horsepower And Better Gas Mileage, With 10,000 RPM Rating, Must Be Used With A Fan Shroud, With Manufacturer's Limited 1-Year Warranty

http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=0&Nr=AND(make:Dodge,model:D300+Pickup,year:1974,part:Fan+Blade,brand:Flexalite)&roicid=B1172613097W45e4a7e90676a&roikwd=Dodge+D300%20Pickup+Fan%20Blade+Flexalite&csid=cs10930876944a3a998d8c2c5

[hemi68charger]

Well, I have taken out the thermostat and all looks clean. Don't trust it since I didn't put it in and the car probably doesn't have a whole lot of miles since Jules did the motor. The radiator does look clean inside and it is a 4-core. Hopefully the seals from Mike at Dayclona will be in soon and I can tinker with it over the long weekend.

Troy

[62 Max]

Does the Daytona use the same seal between the bottom of the core support and the k frame and the foam seal between the top radiator tank and top of core support? 90 % of the birds i have seen have those seal's missing.Makes a big difference.

[hemigeno]

Yes, the Daytonas use pretty much the same seal arrangement.  There is a closed-cell foam strip between the top tank and radiator yoke, as well as a strip between the bottom tank and the radiator yoke.  Those would help keep the air from by-passing the radiator core.

In my mind, the K-frame seal wouldn't add much effectiveness to the cooling system if those two foam seals were in place, but perhaps I'm not thinking about it correctly.  I thought the K-frame seal was more of an aerodynamic add-on rather than a cooling aid...