My 1969 Charger...irritated and aggravated, another rant...!!! need advice!!

[elanmars]

9/9 UPDATE A FEW POSTS DOWN---so I sold the '73 for a pretty sweet price...and went to check out a '69 about 5 hours away. Much better than expected, had to drive it back, even though it looked different than the pics I had seen-see, it was primer gray...but the guy I bought it from got drunk one night with some friends and spray painted orange...sloppy, ghetto, embarrassing orange  

I got tons of parts, with more he has to send me. it will need some work too. I plan to have the car painted flat black for now and I'm considering buying a new hood and passenger door from AMD. It has a 400 engine right now which will be swapped for a 318, since I'll be using this ride as a daily driver. Getting classic auto air AC unit. Anyway, before I get into all that, I have this list of questions and any help is totally appreciated.

some of these questions might be pretty retarded, just warning in advance! specially since it didn't come with a owner's manual...

1. Front seats are super torn up and I'm going to replace them with something modern. any suggestions?? as far as websites, best prices, awesome sweet seats, etc. I might go to a junkyard sometime and see what I can get, would love a modern mopar seat...

2. is there a way to turn on the dome light while in the car? what is this "map light" i've seen mentioned before?

3. do front speakers go on top of the dash? I've seen pics of 2nd gens with speakers on the doors too...is that a modern modification? what's better to do?

4. Drums VS Disc-what's the recommendation? this car WILL be used as a daily driver. what's the difference between all these?

why the price difference between these two? need some education!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit-Chrysler-B-E-Body-62-72_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZQ7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a30QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem33533bfd09QQitemZ220439772425QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQsalenotsupported#ht_500wt_1217

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-POWER-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit-B-E-Body-62-72_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZQ7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a30QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem5632c2fb88QQitemZ370218826632QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQsalenotsupported#ht_680wt_1202

and I've seen this recommended in some threads I searched reading up on disc brakes-

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/product-detail.cfm?product_id=230

any good?

5. Unfortunately, the pipes are straight. They are obnoxiously loud but also make the car stink of exhaust BAD. Can't have that! Suggestions for a decent muffler? Can't be anything toooo loud, as I will have my kid in the back seat and don't want her going deaf! but a nice rumble is always a great sound, my '73 had that idling beast sound, yet not deafening in the slightest.

6. Best place to get weather stripping? looked at paddock...

7. Best place to get a trunk divider? looked at paddock...need to get padding for that too, right? or will the E-dead mat stuff work just fine?

8. Any firewall padding recommendations? I'm feeling the heat of the engine pretty bad, besides the fumes.

9. I'm going to do the hush mat pad thing, going with e-dead as seen in other threads.

10. Anything else I can do that's not crazy expensive to make this car a comfy, daily driver?

11. Is there any aftermarket stuff that fixes the rear window water problem?

12. To replace the wheel with a smaller, better looking one (like a grant), do I need to buy any sort of kit to fit it?

13. Best place to get the emblems? I have them, they're just a bit yucky looking, the ones that go on top each have one broken pin. Need them for the front, back and sides...

and haven't had a chance to take some nice pics of the car just yet but here are some girl-less pics for now!!

[Brock Samson]

 Cool ya' got the best yr there... if your gonna dynomat the thing you can go for the turbomaxs I'd do the 340 as opposed to the 318, it's gonna have to get reworked anyhow right?.. you could allways say it's a 318,.. if you go for a gearvendors unit the extra gears will give you more Econonical service in the long run... you might concider the 70 seats as they are supposedly an improvment seats are expensive though once you get into the modern aftermarket ones...
you sure ask alot of questions... if you rotate the dimmer wheel all the way up it should keep the dome light on...
but often those roller wheels are corroded and problematic i've been through four of them in 25 years I've owned my '69..
top of dash is the stock placment but shallow ones will fit in the door, some folks here have some really slick setups for those...
defininitaly go with discs sooner then later..
the trunk devider ain't no biggie it's a piece of cardboard to seal up the cabin from the trunk a custome fit piece of wood wotld be a better solution...

i'm sure others will chime in, but i wanted to say CONGRADULATIONS!!! 

[kab69440]

Cool ya' got the best yr there... if your gonna dynomat the thing you can go for the turbomaxs I'd do the 340 as opposed to the 318, it's gonna have to get reworked anyhow right?.. you could allways say it's a 318,.. if you go for a gearvendors unit the extra gears will give you more Econonical service in the long run... you might concider the 70 seats as they are supposedly an improvment seats are expensive though once you get into the modern aftermarket ones...
you sure ask alot of questions... if you rotate the dimmer wheel all the way up it should keep the dome light on...
but often those roller wheels are corroded and problematic i've been through four of them in 25 years I've owned my '69..
top of dash is the stock placment but shallow ones will fit in the door, some folks here have some really slick setups for those...
defininitaly go with discs sooner then later..
the trunk devider ain't no biggie it's a piece of cardboard to seal up the cabin from the trunk a custome fit piece of wood wotld be a better solution...

i'm sure others will chime in, but i wanted to say CONGRADULATIONS!!! 

Surely you aren't suggesting he use non-correct parts on a '69!!! That is heresy!

[elanmars]

Thanks man!! I'm way happy with this car, despite the work that needs to go into it, I just need the major stuff done for now and then slowly I'll keep adding and doing more. I appreciate all the info. Yeah when I turn the wheel all the way up, it does nothing, so that makes sense, might need a new one.

as far as gearvendors unit, what gears should I go for, where to get, etc?

[mikepmcs]

congratulations!  ok, I'm gonna let the girl-less pics slide for now and try to assist but you know I'm gonna need to see some hotties pretty soon.

So...the car runs well already, I assume??

First we have to make the car safe.  So we should focus on exhaust and brakes.  The price difference between the 2 you posted up is one is just the brakes, pads, linkage, spindles, etc..... the other has everything else to include the booster, m/c, prop valve etc..... so there is the price difference.  Same seller so that is what I came up with anyway.

I read good things about that system and it's one stop shopping so that appeals to me in this particular instance instead of going and searching yard after yard for the right car, part etc....

Disc over drum IMO.   

[mikepmcs]

5. Unfortunately, the pipes are straight. They are obnoxiously loud but also make the car stink of exhaust BAD. Can't have that! Suggestions for a decent muffler?


Headers or stock manifolds?  Are you looking for a complete exhaust system or just to replace the muffler for now? How much of a concern is cash flow as that will also help us help you. Deep pockets = TTI exhaust complete for correct pipes etc.... just muffler go with a Dynomax Ultraflo or Super Turbo.  2.5 inch is plenty. Opinions will vary greatly but I will never suggest a flomaster series muffler because of what I've learned from Ron.  Check out the dynomax site and see if there is something you like.   http://www.dynomax.com/sounds/flash/sounds.html

[mikepmcs]

1. Front seats are super torn up and I'm going to replace them with something modern. any suggestions?? as far as websites, best prices, awesome sweet seats, etc. I might go to a junkyard sometime and see what I can get, would love a modern mopar seat...

Summit would be a good place to start in the seat department to get some ideas.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=seats&dds=1


Even a Simpson baby seat(not that cartoon either, simpson racing equipment)

[mikepmcs]

2. is there a way to turn on the dome light while in the car? what is this "map light" i've seen mentioned before?

Dome light, rotate wheel on left side of dash to beyond the detent position.  If this does not succesfully turn the dome light on...assuming you have verified the bulb is good of course, You can take the switch apart and clean it. Most likely the rotating assy is dirty or corroded.  That will most likely fix your problem, if not it din't cost you anything to try. 

Map light, ok, do this for me.  Go to your car and sit in the driver seat. Now pretend you need to find something under the passenger seat so as you lean over and start to look under the seat(head is way down by the floor) rotate your head about 180 to the left and you will see the map light under the dash pad above and to the left of the glove box door. 


That's all from me for right now except for the steering wheel.  Grant makes a real nice smaller wheel and yes you need a kit that is required for the install.

http://www.grantproducts.com/c-109-Classic-Car--Truck.aspx

http://www.grantproducts.com/c-154-steering-wheel-installation-kits.aspx

I have this wheel because it's what was used in the 05 DOH movie but there are tons of choices for wheels.  Pages and pages actually, so poke around for a while.

http://www.grantproducts.com/pc-82-17-737.aspx

What's wrong with your hood and your door that you need a replacement?  Just curious because they don't look that bad.

[elanmars]

congratulations!  ok, I'm gonna let the girl-less pics slide for now and try to assist but you know I'm gonna need to see some hotties pretty soon.

So...the car runs well already, I assume??

First we have to make the car safe.  So we should focus on exhaust and brakes.  The price difference between the 2 you posted up is one is just the brakes, pads, linkage, spindles, etc..... the other has everything else to include the booster, m/c, prop valve etc..... so there is the price difference.  Same seller so that is what I came up with anyway.

I read good things about that system and it's one stop shopping so that appeals to me in this particular instance instead of going and searching yard after yard for the right car, part etc....

Disc over drum IMO.   

yeah I don't really have the time to go to different yards and go part hunting!! so the more expensive one, go for it and then its done with?

and I'm working on a series of pics, inspired by dukes of hazard, death proof, dirty mary crazy larry with this '69, any movie/tv show that had a prominent 69 and yes involving hot girls, soon. promise.  

pipes-they are brand new on the car, they just left them straight though, don't know why. I guess they really love exhaust smell?? so all I need are mufflers and take it somewhere to be welded in. Thanks for the dynomax recommendation, really like their sound and the thrust ones too. That'll be tough to choose from any of those...hmm!! the dome light turned on the for the first time last night, that little wheel I will have to take out and clean for sure.

and pockets aren't deep-trying to get this stuff done on the cheap but not skimping on quality, if that makes sense? it won't be complete for a while, it'll be a continuous project that's driveable but I really want the safety and comfort down first. The hood has 2-3 minor holes on the front left, I guess I can cover it somehow...what kind of filler would you recommend? I can live with it for a while, the hood isn't what I would put in the priority list...and I guess the same can be done for the passenger door, put some filler on it in the mean time and then later, get a replacement. Why-it has a bit of rust at the bottom. It's not see through, thankfully and it's been stopped.

I'm going to have to do some minor sanding before getting the car painted (flat black/death proof black/vinyl/gun metal black with some sort of clear coat, can't just leave it with primer!), unless I find someone that would do it and not charge me a ton for it, I know two guys just starting their car painting businesses and been told I'd get a sweet discount if I ever brought a car to them, just gotta holler at them and see how it'll be price wise.

as far as engine, it runs nice and mean but I'll be replacing it with a small block for now, to get decent gas mileage but have the killer looks. 340s, are they good on gas similar to 318's then? They're not on the cheap and easy to find around here, at least lately.

Thanks for all the help!!!

[bull]

Well, crappy orange paint is better than primer only. Although people do it all the time you're really not supposed to be running around in primer because it doesn't offer adequate protection.

[Chatt69chgr]

340's were only produced for 3 years and are essentially a race engine.  they are not cheap.  But why a 318?  Why not a 360 out of a later Chrysler vehicle.  I think they might be more fuel efficient than a 318.  Others would need to tell you the best years to look for and which vehicles to get one from.  Now if you already have a 318 than go ahead and use it.  What transmission and rear end is in the car now?  for fuel milage, you would want a 2.76 rear.  To keep costs really down, you could pull the whole brake system out of a F, M, or J body car.  the spindle is slightly taller but zillions have been used successfully.  Some say they are better.  the calipers for these rebuilt are dirt cheap.  and you can use the 10.87 inch rotors and caliper adapters which is usually on these anyway.  also, these will fit inside a 14 inch wheel if you happen to be using them.  no need to put in a power booster right away.  many say that they work ok without one.   proportioning valves all available now from inland tube.  I would probably want to redo the front end parts with good Moog parts right away.  hopefully, the steering box is OK for now.  power steering pumps cheap rebuilt.  the neon srt4 used the same seats as the Viper.  probably won't find any of these.  others will have suggestions on the best seats to use out of later cars.  save the frames and all the parts on your originals for later rebuilding as they are hard to find.  all the weatherstripping adds up $$ wise.  I forget which product I used.  I think it was sofseal.  if your rear window is leaking, then the trunk floor is probably rusted out.  only temporary way to fix might be to get some epoxy putty and stick it on from the underside.  you will want to get rid of points electrical sys and put in the new mopar electronic distributor.

[elanmars]

--------UPDATE----------
Ok so I haven't really kept up with the progress due to being busy with school, work, selling things on ebay and a baby on the way-I'm down to weeks, maybe DAYS until the baby pops out of my girlfriend.

The car has gotten brake work, drums replaced in the back (I literally drove that car with only one drum brake working on the way down, good thing I'm a cruiser and not a racer), all gaskets replaced, carburetor adjusted, transmission rebuilt, electrical work, etc.

It's still not done. I still need to get an A/C unit, a sound system and put in sound deadener, as well as seat belts. It won't be all completed by the time my baby arrives, which my plan was to have it mostly ready weeks BEFORE...and this is where I'm irritated.

With the recommendation of a friend, I took the car to have body work done and for it to be painted. I got a really good price for it, told them my time frame and was told not to worry, 2-3 weeks is "plenty of time". Pay half of it first and then the rest once it's done. Seemed reasonable.

I checked the car on the second week and it was looking good-progress was going slower than I expected but it was going and the work so far being put into it was good. During week 3-4, I was pretty busy to keep up with the car but I had my friend go see it and take pics-again, work was being done, REALLY SLOW but good.

Then it became difficult to get ahold of the guy doing most of the work-mind you, I don't call every day but ONCE A WEEK. I'd leave a message, wait a day...no call. I'm thinking I'm being too nice. Days later he finally does call me and tells me he had a falling out with his partner, so he had to move most of his stuff and equipment and the car to his parent's house. This caused him quite a bit of money loss and I was understanding, just wished he would have informed me and kept me updated. Against my better judgment, when he asked if he could have a little bit of money, because of what happened and it'd help him out, I gave it to him.

The body work so far has been nothing short of excellent, the previous owner did a fantastic job of adding bondo to the body on the back fenders-they were replaced but they kept on adding bondo all over the body on the rear, almost as if they wanted to erase the body lines in the back???!! Being inexperienced first hand with second generation chargers (I had a 1973 SE Charger up until recently), I just thought, well, they are just bigger or something. No, just a ton of bondo and once taken off, there was nothing but straight, healthy metal underneath (whew)...again though, WHAT THE HELL WERE THEY THINKING!!? All of that was taken off and the car looks much leaner, meaner and sexier. The back window had the usual rust area, so that was all filled and worked on with the metal-on-metal stuff I forget the name of.

The back fenders were also smoothed out to the rear to make it one piece, if that makes sense, I don't know how else to describe it but it's like one of the member rides I've seen here, if I find a picture I'll post it. I also had the side marker lights erased and I really like that look. The hood is not going to be able to be saved, as it was super bondoed and I knew in advance I would have to replace it but he was doing something so I could still use it for the next few months or years, until I get the new one.

Anyway-it's week 9-last time I saw the car, about 2 weeks ago, he said the car should be done by memorial weekend...I called last week, no answer. I call again saturday, no answer. I call Monday, no answer. Today, no answer. I drove by where the car is at after school (I live 30 minutes away from school and from where the car is at) and it looks like no work has been done since I saw him last. In fact, the car was OUTSIDE and it's been RAINING the last couple of days here in Louisiana and the rear lights are off for the paint, leaving an open area for the trunk to be nicely wet. Not to mention, oh, I don't know, BARE METAL in some areas.

My daughter is coming September 30th-but she could come much, much earlier, as my girlfriend is still very active and working. I have no other car and have been borrowing my mom's and she's been very understanding but it makes it such a hassle with our schedules and how busy we both are-we work around it but still.

How should I handle this? Should I give him an ultimatum for this weekend?? I really wanted the car done already and it's not like I'm being a jerk about it, I think I've been far too patient and understanding. I've had the car longer there than I've had it personally driving it.

I was really hoping the car would have been done by now so I could get around more easy and to keep working on it a little here and there to make it better, this will be an ongoing project, a running, daily driver 80-95% done and it's not going to be some super nice, pro-touring or trailer queen car for the foreseeable future but that's ok, I love it and I definitely miss it.

I've been so aggravated about all this that I've even considered to sell it, since I've had some really good offers despite it not being done and just say f-it to it all and buy an already done '69. but oh well, I don't know...

[G-man]

My exhaust seems straight through also. Loud, and smells like a muscle car. LEAVE IT AS IS!

[elacruze]

How should I handle this? Should I give him an ultimatum for this weekend?? I really wanted the car done already and it's not like I'm being a jerk about it, I think I've been far too patient and understanding. I've had the car longer there than I've had it personally driving it.

Poopy situation. I'd confront the fellow, tell him you don't have time to fool around, you have a baby coming and you're taking the car as soon as you can get a tow home. If he's at the point of leaving it bare out in the rain, something's desperately wrong and you're at the bottom of the list. That's when things start happening like "dude i'm so sorry, I came home from x and found it on blocks." Get it out of there. If he doesn't at least have a clean and empty garage to work on it in, either the work won't get done or it'll be done very poorly. I'm sure many of us have lived similar situations, and they never seem to end well for the owner.

[elanmars]

How should I handle this? Should I give him an ultimatum for this weekend?? I really wanted the car done already and it's not like I'm being a jerk about it, I think I've been far too patient and understanding. I've had the car longer there than I've had it personally driving it.

Poopy situation. I'd confront the fellow, tell him you don't have time to fool around, you have a baby coming and you're taking the car as soon as you can get a tow home. If he's at the point of leaving it bare out in the rain, something's desperately wrong and you're at the bottom of the list. That's when things start happening like "dude i'm so sorry, I came home from x and found it on blocks." Get it out of there. If he doesn't at least have a clean and empty garage to work on it in, either the work won't get done or it'll be done very poorly. I'm sure many of us have lived similar situations, and they never seem to end well for the owner.

oh I can just take it, as the car drives....except he's got the keys. But thank you, I appreciate your advice. I'm making sure I have a plan B and C in the form of other painters around the area. It wouldn't have been so bad if the guy could just communicate.

[aussiemuscle]

but they kept on adding bondo all over the body on the rear, almost as if they wanted to erase the body lines in the back???!! Being inexperienced first hand with second generation chargers (I had a 1973 SE Charger up until recently), I just thought, well, they are just bigger or something. No, just a ton of bondo and once taken off, there was nothing but straight, healthy metal underneath (whew)...again though, WHAT THE HELL WERE THEY THINKING!!?

if you ever watch boyd's AMERICAN HOTROD you'll see the actually bondo the whole car to get that boyd smoothster look and i guess they were emulating that. a lot of work tho.

[PocketThunder]

How should I handle this? Should I give him an ultimatum for this weekend?? I really wanted the car done already and it's not like I'm being a jerk about it, I think I've been far too patient and understanding. I've had the car longer there than I've had it personally driving it.

How many times do us readers come across the same story as this one... the end result on what to do is always the same:

GO GET YOUR CAR.  Get it out of there, cut your losses, and start over somewhere else. 

Oh and i have 3 kids, and every time my spouse was pregnant there was a project that "had to be done before the baby comes or else the world was gonna end" well, dont rush it, the baby will come before you know it and life will go on afterwards.  If you need a daily driver then buy a beater for $1000 and keep the Charger on the side.   

Good luck Grasshooper!