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What engine would you pick 383/400/440 and $ for a rebuild if I do it myself

Started by sext7366, November 10, 2005, 10:06:07 PM

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sext7366

Ok some of you read my other post engine overheated and a piston came apart.   Anyway just wanted to hear some thoughts from you guys about what you would do.   I have the 383, but its already been bored .060 over so this time would be .090 and it is the numbers matching engine, and I drive the car fairly regular, so if anything happens again ... I guess it could be resleeved, but I don't know much about this process and how goo/bad it is.   My other option is of course to get a different block which I could go up in ci if I wanted.   I have heard the 383 and 400 are pretty good engines because they match the shorter stroke with big block power giving good low and top end power, but havnt heard much about the 440 except that with the right amount of $ you can build a killer engine combo and create gobbs of horsepower.   Just curious what you guys thought.   I do plan on using the car a little on the highway and a little on the street, and rest assured I will get on it from time to time.  

Chargerguy74

I brought up sleeving a little while ago, might have been on the old board before it died though. No one had any cons to sleeving other than $$$. Think I was told about $100 a cylinder.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

sext7366

Oh yeah was also curious how much a complete rebuild should cost me if I do it myself. I know about 600 for a kit, but what about machine shop work on heads block etc.

cudaken

 sext7366, with your engine only having 20,000 miles on it you sould not have to puch all the holes. If the pistons parts hurt all the walls you may have to but more than likely only the one where the piston broke. Here is what I am going to guess but you need to get the engine to a shop.

$75.00 to have the block messuer
$50.00 Polish crank $90.00 if it need's to be turned.
$50.00 Clean the block, pressuer washing would save the cam bearings
$50.00 For piston (never said cast or forged) so could go either way
$20.00 Have the rod re sizes
$20.00 Have piston pressed on and off
$40.00 To have piston blanced if engine was balanced the first time
$75.00 To hone the holes
$100.00 To seleve the hole
$65.00 Rod Bearings
$65.00 Mains
$80.00 Rings apx depeneding on what you had
$90.00 Gaskets.
$780.00 Total for short block if other piston are OK.

Heads, have them vaccume tested to see if the valves are still sealing and have them check stems seals. Heat will make them brittle and crack.

If you start from nothing again, I would do a 440. Parts cost the same.

                                             Cuda Ken

I am back

firefighter3931

The 440 hands down. A longer stroke will make more torque. You could do a low deck stroker if you had a 400 block and 440 crank available.

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Ghoste

I'll throw in a 440 vote too.  If you want to do something wilder, the low deck strokers are the way to go but the stock 440 is almost the perfect wedge stock for stock.  Cheap, reliable, and lotsa torque and power.

RD

i would pick a 400 and stroke it.  the stroker kits are reasonable now in price, and you will get a lighter block that is stronger and 11 more cubes from the get-go.  Of course it is a tad more expensive, and I mean a tad like in $1000 min.
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

BigBlockSam

I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img

Silver R/T

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1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

cudaken

 Seems you guys forgot the budget part. Remember this is not a I want to bulid, but need to bulid. His 383 blew chunks after 20,000 miles.

                        Cuda Ken
I am back

Ghoste


Chryco Psycho

I would go with the 440 OR a 400 block with the 440 crank ....Torque Rules !!

67_Dodge_Charger

Keep the numbers matching block for later.  Go for a 440.  $800 for resleeving is a lot of expense for a driver.  Try and find a running 440.  You will be money ahead.

Good Luck
-Robert

Headrope

I'd sit tight and let money be your guide.

After several months of actually looking and trying to make the BB/RB decision I stumbled across a running 400 that had $75 Moroso plug wires and chrome goodies on it. I listened to the motor run one night, the guy pulled it for me and delivered it to my garage the next. Total cost: $300.

The deals are out there if you have the time. The holidays are almost here and people need the money. Perhaps take some time off from the car and let the motor find you.
Sixty-eights look great and the '69 is fine.
But before the General Lee there was me - Headrope.