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Painting a Hemi Charger (Mon. update W/ new pics Pg. 2)

Started by charge69, June 12, 2009, 07:12:23 PM

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charge69

Next......the rear tail assembly!  All spot-welded in!







The package tray/ lower rear window support area .  This area was completely rusted away and the wait for a package tray and lower rear window support was almost a year!



cont.

charge69

More photos:    This is the underside of the trunk floor and is a wide area shot showing the torque boxes and the built-up pinion shubber area on the Hemicars!



A picture of my friend and restorer working on the outer wheel well housing graft he did!  Got to get it right!





Again,  the numbers and marking were used to mark the original spot-welds and to put them back where they were from the factory!


charge69

A couple of more pics.    This is the rough-fitting of the left rear quarter! It went OK but still lots to do to make it right.  The end rounded end caps between the lower quarter and the rear roll pan is a nightmare!  Gonna take some seroius massaging to get them to work! I gueess it is expected when you replace the WHOLE BACK of the car!!






And finally.......My restorers new ride!!!!!!      2009 6spd SRT Challenger!  He is using it as his daily driver for now!  We went to get a burger at lunch and it is a FINE ride!



mikepmcs

Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

69*F5*SE


hemi-hampton

Yeah, That looks good, I've used a few different spot welders with the vise clamp type of arms, My arms were shorter so less reach. Those things are heavy too. I like that other Antique set up, thats what I need. Not sure if they are still made like that nowadays? Now my Questions is doesn't take 2 people to operate the antique welder & if so how do you know when the guy on top & guy underneath are holding the spot welder tips directly over the top of each other since you cant see thru the floor :scratchchin: LEON.

roger01

youve got to split those valance  corners from top to bottom and add about 3/8 material to them ....mine fit pretty good after that advice i got on here some where

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: hemi-hampton on June 15, 2009, 09:24:00 PM
Yeah, That looks good, I've used a few different spot welders with the vise clamp type of arms, My arms were shorter so less reach. Those things are heavy too. I like that other Antique set up, thats what I need. Not sure if they are still made like that nowadays? Now my Questions is doesn't take 2 people to operate the antique welder & if so how do you know when the guy on top & guy underneath are holding the spot welder tips directly over the top of each other since you cant see thru the floor :scratchchin: LEON.

Leon,

you can still buy the Lenco-spot, which is what I have. It looks almost like the 2 handled one in the above pics,and it works awesome. I got mine at a body shop auction for 200.00 dollars about 15 years ago. you can still buy the same thing new for like 1200.00.....Well worth it IMHO Way easier than drillin holes, welding them shut, applying and sanding filler then primer etc etc....

With the spot welder I just clean the blue away for the weld seal and paint.


Here is a link to a new one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/LENCO-MARK-ll-L-400O-AUTO-BODY-SPOT-WELDER_W0QQitemZ250329705639QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Welders?hash=item3a48d02ca7&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

.....And a used one:http://cgi.ebay.com/LENCO-Lencospot-Mark-II-Duo-Spot-Welder-L-4000-Z_W0QQitemZ400055160087QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Welders?hash=item5d25254d17&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1205%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50


The used one would need new cables because its got some odd cables on it.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

charge69

Good question Leon!   That is the reason for the markings as much as where they were originally welded!  We had to mark both sides of the floor with measurements so BOTH of us could get close to the same spot! So....yes, it took 2 of us to do it and it was a little tricky to get it right but, taking the time to measure and mark each weld is the trick! We intentionally left the splatter from the welds to give it the "factory welded" look!  When painted, you will still see the splatter painted over like it was from Mother MOPAR!  

I am very proud of the work we are doing and this car is gonna be awesome when finished!  

By the way, my car was completely painted on the underside with R6 from the factory, no  primer was showing. I have "before" pics to document this. The frame rails as well as the wheelwells were undercoated too.  Not the whole underside so, it must have been done at the factory.  When we paint it, it will look that way too!

charge69

Roger01,  We are coming to that conclusion but they had to be recontoured also as they did not have the needed curves to line up on both the quarter and the roll pan!  What a pain!  They should fit better than that for the price you pay for them!  Looking at a couple of options and they WILL be right in the final assembly!   

My friend's 1969 Roadrunner had a lot of rust and he had to do some major repair. It was a Pennsylvania car and had a lot of problems!  His Dutchman panel was a problem and he just welded it in and cut grooves in the welds to look like the factory seam. You would not be able to tell, I swear and it is better than a factory job as it will never have a problem there!