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How big a job to remove 727 tran?

Started by Chargeraddict, June 01, 2009, 01:08:15 PM

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Chargeraddict

Mine is leaking like a sieve, Called a tranny shop and they said at least 400 to get it out...Can I get it out in my shop at home in a reasonable amount of time? Ill take it over in my truck, save me some tow truck fees too, those can be outragous.

r_biccum

Shouldnt take more than an hour, remove the driveshaft, speedo cable, starter, shifter & kick down linkage, unplug wiring harness, fill tube, tourque converter bolts, belhousing bolts, and the crossmember bolts
1969 Dodge Charger SE 383 727 #'s matching with original 8 track
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
2003 Hummer H2

FLG

Easy job. Easier if you have a friend and a lift.

Sublime/Sixpack

If you've done it a few times the job goes pretty quickly but if its your first time go at your own speed and be thorough and safe. A lift and transmission jack make it real easy but if you don't have access to those you can do it with a good floor jack and some jack stands. I welded up a plate for my floor jack so I can use it to lower (remove) and raise (install) the transmission. It makes the job a lot easier. I also like to remove the pan and drain the fluid before removing the trans.  :Twocents:
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

Chargeraddict


John_Kunkel


Depending on the body type, removing the upper transmission-to-block bolts can take nearly as long as the rest of the job. A 9/16" swivel socket at the end of a 36" extension makes it a snap. (especially if plugged into an impact wrench)
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Chargeraddict

Shes out! Your right the top 2 bolts were a pain in the ass! I had to use a 9/16 wrench and lay over the engine, man were they tight!

flyinlow

2 hours  with good tools and a helper the first time , if no snags like stuck bolts.

Tips that I remember:

Drain pan /converter first

mark flex plate /converter for reassembly ( any old spray paint)

leave starter installed until you take the last flex plate bolt out ( to rotate engine) dont lose bolts

put a piece of plywood between the engine oil pan and the drag link. after you have removed the x member lower the engine/trans on to the drag link so it is easier to get to the upper trans to engine bolts. Like John said use a very long extention and swival socket to remove the upper bolts.

use a c clamp on the bellhousing to keep the converter from falling out on you after you separate the engine/trans

wear work gloves to help cut down on damage to skin (ring gear rash sucks)

you will have ATF on  the floor durring this ..... shop towels

Make sure you jack up car far enough to get the trans. out from under it.

Rock music and beer help.  

:Twocents:


Chargeraddict

Damnit! I forgot to mark the flywheel oh well looks like it will be trial and error putting her back in..

flyinlow

Some flex plates have a small hole drilled for alignment. Forget whether is lines up with the drain plug or opposite it. Some one will know.

c00nhunterjoe

my 69 takes about 30 minutes by myself on jackstands with a floor jack. that is with long tube headers on it as well. they are simple and you have tons of room to work with. just let the tranny hang down some after the crossmember is removed and use a long extension on the bellhousing bolts.

green69rt

Don't forget to support the engine!! a engine hoist works good or a buch of wooden blocks.