what radiator do u run, suggest??

[68chargerboy]

i was wondering what type of aluminum radiators you guys are using.  there is alottttt of options as to what ones to go with and i want to be sure i get the correct one for my car.  i have a 440 with around 450hp.  its a street strip car so if i do go to the track i am going to be driving it there.  all advice will be helpful  thanks alot,    zach

[Hemidog]

I'm going with the one in the first post, looks like it's alot of radiator for your money, and lots of good experiences.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,55725.0.html

[Supercharged Riot]

I have a blower and I ned a new radiator.
Is aluminum the way to go?
How may rows should I need?

Let me know!  Im having trouble picking one out.

Thanks

[A383Wing]

I got a 2 row 26" aluminum radiator off ebay for $250 which included shipping. Each row of cooling tubes are 1" long...which gives me more water to cool than a regular 3 row radiator that has 1/2" tubes.

I put this radiator in the cream 66 and the Daytona...solved all my overheat issues.

[BBKNARF]

I'm also using a 26" 2 core and duel 12" fans pulling 3000 cfm on a Be-cool rad on a 500+hp motor, in 95* weather the motor stays under 200.

[Cooter]

Brass/copper can't hold a candle to aluminim I don't care how many rows it has....

[1970Moparmann]

I got a 2 row 26" aluminum radiator off ebay for $250 which included shipping. Each row of cooling tubes are 1" long...which gives me more water to cool than a regular 3 row radiator that has 1/2" tubes.

I put this radiator in the cream 66 and the Daytona...solved all my overheat issues.

Mine looks like this one.  It's a Champion.  Very happy with it on my 500 stroker.  Almost all of the time it kept the engine at 170 degrees.  I'm still surprised at this, but I have two gauges and a laser gun that tells me the same thing.  The only issue you may have is making a bracket that works.  I did have to put a fan shroud on mine though-the 2 fans didn't do squat for me.  Like I said, now it's nice and cooooolll.

[Supercharged Riot]

I was thinking about getting this radiator to cool off my blown 383

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320578358185&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AWNAFP%3AUS%3A1123

What do you guys think?

I dont have a lot of room behind the radiator to install an electric fan
So I have to put the fan(s) in fonr of the radiator
Is there anything wrong with doing this?
Im thinking I need to install 2 electric radiator fan in front of the radiator if I get this one.

[A383Wing]

I was thinking about getting this radiator to cool off my blown 383

that's the one i bought for the cream 66 and the daytona ....so far, no problems

[Back N Black]

I'm running an aluminum rad and stock fan with no issues, its cools all day long @ 175-180 degrees. I used the Hayden low profile clutch. here is a couple of pics.....

[A383Wing]

yup..I'm running the same low profile clutch as well...both of mine are non-thermal style

[Supercharged Riot]

Im about to buy the radiator, but I just found this shop thats selling a Griffin Radiator that is 2.5 inches thick for a couple bucks more.  It just has cosmetic "blemishes and dings"

You guys think I should take a chance on this  Griffin 17.5" x 26"x 2.5" (part #5-566GB-FXX)?
Or should I just get the guaranteed brand spankin new ebay one from Engineered Products  17.5" x 26"x 2"

Let me know what your opinions are!   

[A383Wing]

the only issue with the 2.5" radiator is that it might be a bit close to fan...be careful...you need fan clearance

[68RED4SPEED]

yup..I'm running the same low profile clutch as well...both of mine are non-thermal style

Do you know the number at these clutches so I can order one for me, and where is best to buy these.
Thanks Sven

[Back N Black]

yup..I'm running the same low profile clutch as well...both of mine are non-thermal style

Do you know the number at these clutches so I can order one for me, and where is best to buy these.
Thanks Sven

Hayden 2765 clutch fan, i got mine at the local NAPA.

[68RED4SPEED]

Thanks, found it at Summit also will order 2 next time I by stuff from them.

[J-440]

  S-charged... I just bought a setup from Griffin.  I also don't have a lot of room and must use a pusher fan.  From what I hear, a duel-pass radiator is the way to go. It's 19"x25" and is 3.5" thick and usually runs 10-20 degrees cooler than a single-pass radiator.  I'm using a Spal 16" pusher fan good for 3000 cfm.  Unfortunatly, my car is still being put together so I can't tell you how cool she runs.  Do some research on duel-pass radiators, good stuff.

[Supercharged Riot]

Thanks J-440

I think thats what Im looking to get because my blower makes my engine run really hot
I kinds blew a radiator weld (last owner JB welded a hole) last summer


Where did you end up sourcing your dual pass radiator from?

[Chatt69chgr]

Hey Back N Black,

Do you have a part number or identifying info on the aluminum radiator you bought?  And who you got it from?  Looks like it is a direct replacement for the stock radiator.  In fact, it looks like the one shown above that was sourced from EBAY.  Isn't that a stock fan shroud attached to it? 

[terrible one]

Hey Back N Black,

Do you have a part number or identifying info on the aluminum radiator you bought?  And who you got it from?  Looks like it is a direct replacement for the stock radiator.  In fact, it looks like the one shown above that was sourced from EBAY.  Isn't that a stock fan shroud attached to it? 

I would also like to know!

[doctor4766]

So what IS a safe operating temp for a big block.
I have a factory 26" radiator on my recently rebuilt stockish 383 and it mostly reads around 180 but goes up to about the half way mark when stopped at lights or in heavy traffic.
The point is, at what stage does one panic??

[J-440]

 S-charged...like I said, Griffin sells a very nice duel-pass radiator.  They can make any radiator any size you want. 
  Doctor...I've been reading about engine temps and these quotes may surprise you.  Believe it or not, the best operating temp. for your motor is the threshold/boundary line just before detonation or catastrophic engine failure.  A lot of racers claim that their car was running at its peak just before the engine blew.  The hotter the motor is, the better it performs.  Not true for the intake/fuel combo, they still need to be cool.  But when the oil, tranny, and coolant temps are above 200 and even higher, the engine is performing at its best. 
  I am currently running a 195 t-stat with a Spal 16" fan pushing 3000 cfm.  The t-stat closes at 170 and opens at 195, then the fan comes on via electronic temp sensor. 
  Smokey Yunick took an 84(?) Fiero and did some tuning with the motor.  He actually got the engine to run at its peak at over 240 and in the process the car got 80 mpg. and produced some high HP for a tiny motor.  Now, I did not read the whole book, but the article referred to the engine as a "hot air setup", the exact title I forget.  Amazon.com should have his book.  But from what I hear, his daughter said that Smokey took a lot of his secrets to the grave. 

[J-440]

  One more thing, take your t-stat out and drill an 1/8" hole on each side of the flat surface of your t-stat.  This will allow air to bleed out of the system to prevent air pockets or hot spots.