Gen 3 Recommended Suspension upgrades for mild track use?

[Beer]

I learned real quick, a set of drag radials is a great first item for track use, cutting a 60' from 2.2 to 1.8 (this on my GM), but what can be done to a Gen 3, in addition to DR's for improvement in the time with the suspension?

Car is in the body shop and this would be a good time to put suspension stuff in with just the rolling chasis.

My engine and driveline is picked out: Small block stoker/Built 727/ 8 3/4" w 3.91 suregrip/have everything but the tranny/converter-be getting this from Cope Racing in OCT.

My Question are which components below should be changed out (and source for aquiring them) for a better ET?

New rear leaf's (or re-arching the old ones)?
Torsion bars for a smallblock (origional) or use the BB ones?
Shocks?
Traction bars?
Subframe connectors?

Hoping for a high 12 sec NA Gen 3 and 11's on spray (directport).

[firefighter3931]

I learned real quick, a set of drag radials is a great first item for track use, cutting a 60' from 2.2 to 1.8 (this on my GM), but what can be done to a Gen 3, in addition to DR's for improvement in the time with the suspension?

Car is in the body shop and this would be a good time to put suspension stuff in with just the rolling chasis.

My engine and driveline is picked out: Small block stoker/Built 727/ 8 3/4" w 3.91 suregrip/have everything but the tranny/converter-be getting this from Cope Racing in OCT.

My Question are which components below should be changed out (and source for aquiring them) for a better ET?

New rear leaf's (or re-arching the old ones)?
Torsion bars for a smallblock (origional) or use the BB ones?
Shocks?
Traction bars?
Subframe connectors?

Hoping for a high 12 sec NA Gen 3 and 11's on spray (directport).

Jim, in order to launch the car effectively and 60ft you will need to do some upgrades, inmo.

(1) Drag radials for sure
(2) small block torsion bars....you want the front end rise to help with weight transfer.
(3) Frame connectors for sure. You don't want to waste energy twisting the chassis and ruining that new paint.
(4) Good 90/10 shocks up front and stiff shocks out back.
(5) Rear springs need an upgrade from stock stuff with the power you will be making. Caltracs work great when set up properly and will work with a stock or XHD style spring but not an SS spring. The other option is to go with just SS springs which work descent but ride a little on the rough side.



Ron

[73 charger]

suggest driveshaft safety loop.   may be required at your local track? 

[Beer]

Summit has both the Front shocks and subframe connectors 

The Mopar Performance Springs I take it are not up to speed (so to speak)?

Jim

[firefighter3931]

Summit has both the Front shocks and subframe connectors 

The Mopar Performance Springs I take it are not up to speed (so to speak)?

Jim

I've had good luck with the SS springs but others have reported sagging issues 

Another option for the springs is ESPO....haven't used them personally but the reviews i've read have all been very positive.

The Comp Engineering shocks are descent. The Rancho 9-way adjustables are even better.



Ron

[Beer]

Got the Subframe connectors on the way.  

Holding off on the shocks till the car is painted.

Should be welded in end of July (as well as the body finished in Primer Black), naturally Pics when they are installed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-3047/

[BBKNARF]

I agree with Ron, Caltracs, frame conectors and rancho 9000 rear shocks. talk to Mancini Racing or Calvert racing about the caltracs.

[Beer]

I agree with Ron, Caltracs, frame conectors and rancho 9000 rear shocks. talk to Mancini Racing or Calvert racing about the caltracs.

Thanks, I am on it.  Should have the car back in primer end of July, shooting for Aug to have the rear susp put together.  Going to use the same shop that did my 8 3/4 rebuild and disc brake conversion for that.

[Beer]

Alrighty...

Mancini Racing was pretty useless, and did not seem interested in helping me so I went to Calvert directly.

About $940 shipping tomorrow  

Caltrac springs, Caltracs, 9 way shocks, and U bolts.   Its supposed to bolt in to factory spring locations and should work with the weld in subframe connectors.  Went with Stock height.  They said lower the better, but I am not looking for every .0X of a second, so went stock height.

Goal is to have the rear suspension installed by Aug 15th  

Naturally Pics as its going together and when done.

Thanks for the help  

[Foreman72]

o i love this thread...i'm also very interested since i have a 72 i'll be beefing up...

but since it appears that you'll be talking this car out to the strip on a regular basis, it looks like we'll be in sort of different directions...


if you haven't already, check out pst.com, justsuspension.com and of course firmfeel.com...great suspension sites...best of luck

looking forward to pics for sure on this one

[Beer]

Question on the front drag shocks...

Lakewood, Comp Engineering, MP, or any others?

Which to get?

Jim

[Foreman72]

Question on the front drag shocks...

Lakewood, Comp Engineering, MP, or any others?

Which to get?

Jim

QA1...check them out

[Beer]

Mocked one side today with the DR. Diff Diff Brake kit...Hope all this bolts in as it should!

Not a whole lot of threads are on the adjust bar...little worried about that.  I will check on the final setup with Caltrac on what is recommended.

[mopar73]

looking good!  I hope it all works well for you

[Beer]

Updated Pics

[mopar73]

Nice   How much was just the caltrac setup?

[Beer]

I think it was $339 for just the Caltracs
I added the Adj shocks and the leafs + new U bolts total was $940.

[firefighter3931]

Nice work Jim....that car is gonna dead hook like a Mutha ! 



Ron

[Blown68Coronet]

Like it was mentioned before....GET A DRIVESHAFT LOOP!
And make sure your u-joints are good....if not they'll let ya know real quick.
Start your burnout in 2nd then get it up into high, get some good smoke off them then get ready to drop the hammer!

[Beer]

Thanks Ron!

Blown, I will get the loops, but they will be added after the car is drivable 

Timeline is upped to paint in Sept.  Rear suspension installed end of this month. Waiting on different Subframe connectors (did not like the comp engineering style).

[Mike DC]

 
If you're cruising & beating on it w/o the loop, then just make sure the front U-joint is stronger than the rear one. 

[Beer]

I see Mancini has a front loop, is one needed front and rear or just front?  Looks like that (front one)  will go in with the transmission as it goes on the cross brace.

[firefighter3931]

I see Mancini has a front loop, is one needed front and rear or just front?  Looks like that (front one)  will go in with the transmission as it goes on the cross brace.

Jim, the Mancini loop is fine....i have the same one on my car. It's made by US Cartool. 


* I wouldn't bother with the rear loop 


Ron

[73 charger]

I had to modify the us car tool loop to fit my 73  Mike

[Beer]

Here are the new Subframe connectors, dropped them off today.  I like these better tha the comp engineering ones.  The comp engineering ones the floorboard needs to be trimmed and they weld into next to the Leaf hangers, these bolt and weld in, and do not require the floorboard to be cut.