K-member reinforcement

[runningman]

I have looked at the pics on Firm Feel's site but can't really see where they are reinforcing the k-members.  Anyone have any pictures of the areas that are being beefed up??

[b5blue]

Did ya check out the stuff I sent ya? Allot is going over and running welds farther than the factory went and something about beefing up the steering box mounts. I'd let them do it if I had time and $$ to, just like the re-enforced LCA's. ( I paid 90.00 to have my "plates" welded on and today I had to grind out the hole for the adjusters to get a socket on the adjuster bolts to set ride height  ) (he said he "got it" but he didn't) I'm sure Firm Feel would have done a better job!

[runningman]

Neal, yeah I checked out the pics.  I am not sure if was because it was black and white but it was hard to see exactly what they had done.  I know the article mentioned welding some washers onto the LCA pivot area and also adding some metal to the steering box mounting area also.  I am going to re-weld the areas I can get to and would like to do the washers and the extra stiffening pieces also but don't want to have problems fitting everything afterwards.  BTW I would've welded those on for free but shipping probably would've been $$$$.  I just did mine and ground them down this week, they came out great.  I am having a buddy powdercoat them in a gold color to mimic the cosmoline...I will post some pics whenever I get them back..

[b5blue]

I'll gladly pay shipping next time! Thanks! Remember the washer weld on for the idler arm is because they "index the angle", something the article was kinda fuzzy about.(trade secret I'm sure  ) I think you could check that by mounting the steering box with the pittman arm on it and the idler arm to the K frame. Put the center section on and check the swing side to side to see if the pivot axises are the same.. /\<-     /\<- reem out the lower hole to change the idler arms pitch to match the steering box (if needed) and weld on a washer. If you get a new Moog idler arm check it right away, I got one that the tube you put the bolt through (for the "pivot") was at an angle inside the part! That would have thrown everything off if I used it! Look over everything you get closely before you even leave where you got it or it comes in! Bring your old stuff with you if you can. I've had to exchange or flat out change allot of stuff lately...defective NAPA bushings, the idler,fuel pumps,rear springs,fuel lines,gaskets, NAPA plug wires! I keep thinking what would have happened if I just piled up a bunch of stuff to fix my car and didn't catch these problems for months! I'm just repairing stuff not "restoring" the car! I advise doing one sub assembly at a time that way you control quality through completion and move on to the next, I don't know how these guys do front ends, engine,transmission,rear end,dash,interior,body,ect. all at one time and with more than one car!   

[runningman]

Wow   I will have to check these things more closely.  I am going with a another k-frame since my original was damaged.  I will test fit all that stuff before I do anything.  I have a new idler arm so when I get the center link back from powder coat I will take a look.  I think I found some areas where I can add some stock to on the steering mounts to help sturdy it up.  I am kind of worried about welding the washers onto the LCA pivot tube area.  Wouldn't this keep the pivot from fully seating into this area??

[b5blue]

If you need to grind on the idler hole (I doubt you will) you would weld the washer to the outside bottom of the idler hole, that's what they do. There is no room in between, I had to tap on mine to get it in and then use a big screwdriver to line up the bolt tube, it was a nice tight fit.

[runningman]

 

[GREEN684SPD]

what about welding washers where the strut rods come thru.as i have a dent in one that only alows 3/4 of the strut bushing to make contact.

[b5blue]

I'd be careful there on a stock set up where the bushings squeeze together is a "set" point for bracing the LCA, maybe on both sides? Moog has an upgrade bushing kit that has steel cups that hold the rubber bushings where they come together in there...maybe use that kit but tack weld the cups "in place"? Check one out at a part store and you will see what I mean.   

[GREEN684SPD]

thanks.
just thought about it im gona grab my slide hammer out and pull that dented area flush.i think that will work.

[b5blue]

I get you, that area is a pain to get at!Good luck  (thought you meant it was bent out of round?)

[73 charger]

I used the firm feel...worked well!  Removed the rubber mounts and replaced with the solid mounts.  Tried to attach pix...web site would not allow me....said i already posted!

[b5blue]

Nice! That will fix that for keeps!