727 transmission

[Bob]

How hard is it to change the shift shaft seals and where can I purchase them? I pin pointed my new leak and it's right there. Pretty good leak now.

[GreenMachine]

You can get them at the local parts store. I had to remove my valve body to replace mine. With the valve body out, a long bolt with 2 oversized washers and a nut make a cheap tool to press the new one in.

[Bob]

You can get them at the local parts store. I had to remove my valve body to replace mine. With the valve body out, a long bolt with 2 oversized washers and a nut make a cheap tool to press the new one in.

I am mechanically inclined but is it as easy as it reads?
Thanks
Bob

[GreenMachine]

   It's been over a year since I did mine, so my memory is a little fuzzy, and it was on a 1985 Dodge 4X4 which I'm sure has more clearance from the trans. to the floorpan. The type of seal is the same style used as the front seal on the trans., front crank, brake rotor, axle, etc.. It needs to be tapped in or pressed in from the top. If you've never removed the valve body before, just remove the filter and 8 or 10 bolts holding it in. Lower it and slide the park rod out forward (have your wheels chocked!!!). Pop the old seal out with a screwdriver from the bottom side. You can press the new one in by the bolt method, maybe even a C clamp, or tap it in if you have enough room.
   To get the valve body back in, insert the park rod and apply force. If it it won't go in, use more force. Bolt it up and re-install your linkage.   

[Bob]

   It's been over a year since I did mine, so my memory is a little fuzzy, and it was on a 1985 Dodge 4X4 which I'm sure has more clearance from the trans. to the floorpan. The type of seal is the same style used as the front seal on the trans., front crank, brake rotor, axle, etc.. It needs to be tapped in or pressed in from the top. If you've never removed the valve body before, just remove the filter and 8 or 10 bolts holding it in. Lower it and slide the park rod out forward (have your wheels chocked!!!). Pop the old seal out with a screwdriver from the bottom side. You can press the new one in by the bolt method, maybe even a C clamp, or tap it in if you have enough room.
   To get the valve body back in, insert the park rod and apply force. If it it won't go in, use more force. Bolt it up and re-install your linkage.   

Thank you. I have a lift so hopefully it will be easier in the air. Thanks for your reply.
Bob

[Bob]

Took about 30 minutes to get the old seal out with the transmission still in the car. Did not remove the pan and valve body.
Removed the transmissioon mount, lowered the rear of the tranny. This will give enough room to play around. Disconected the speedo cable, rear trans line, and linkages.
Removed the 2 shift/kickdown arms.
Made a semi special tool, heated a long skinny 6" flat tip screwdiver bent to a 45 degree angle.
Pryed out old seal.
Remember to have the new seal ready to go in. The trans fluid ran into the drip pan since yeaterday. About 2 quarts.
Today I will stop by NAPA and pick up the seal. 6 bucks.
I will use a socket and tap the new seal into place.
It's a good thing I had a spare tranny in the garage to practice on.
So, it is possible to change the seal with the tranny in the car.
There is actually 2 seals. There is a small rubber one that goes over the kickdown rod that goes up through the shift select shaft. This one was not leaking. I used a mirror and observed the shift shaft seal for an hour and sure enough that is where the leak was.
Bob