News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Windshield install?

Started by 1BAD68, May 22, 2012, 07:42:12 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

1BAD68

This is a really good write up on installing the glass...
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,43619.0.html
But I'm wondering about the bottom of the windshield gasket, it just lay's there (no pinchweld) and the thread doesn't show any urethane being applied to that area.
How does it make a watertight seal?

resq302

If you don't use the 3M bedding and glazing compound that stays soft like butyl tape, you will almost be guaranteed a leak!  I put the bedding and glazing compound all around the bottom channel of my windshield as well as up the sides a bit and I had no leaks.  I also put some under the gasket where the glass went before putting the locking bead in and sealed that up too.  So far, going on 1 plus year, Im leak free!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bill440rt

I have no leaks....
Got caught in the rain at least 3 times with it already. Dry as a bone.
:Twocents:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

doctor4766

Firstly, having been in the autoglass industry since 1988 I might just suggest that you use butyl mastic on the front glass rather than urethane. No disrespect to Bill here, as he's written a great thread, but mastic skins over and doesn't act like glue (like urethane does) so removal at a later date will not require another new rubber.
Secondly, you may as well run a small bead of mastic under the bottom of the rubber before you put it in place.
It certainly won't hurt the cause.
Having said that, I didn't bother with mine either and I have had no leaks, even in pouring rain.
Gotta love a '69

1BAD68

That's amazing to go to all those lengths to seal it up but leave the bottom unsealed and have no leaks.
On my 68 there are two openings on the bottom, one on each side (see picture) I have no idea what they are for but I'm guessing they need to be sealed up somehow right?


bill440rt

Quote from: doctor4766 on May 23, 2012, 04:04:32 AM
Firstly, having been in the autoglass industry since 1988 I might just suggest that you use butyl mastic on the front glass rather than urethane. No disrespect to Bill here, as he's written a great thread, but mastic skins over and doesn't act like glue (like urethane does) so removal at a later date will not require another new rubber.
Secondly, you may as well run a small bead of mastic under the bottom of the rubber before you put it in place.
It certainly won't hurt the cause.
Having said that, I didn't bother with mine either and I have had no leaks, even in pouring rain.



No disrespect at all, Doc!  :2thumbs:

1Bad, that is a drain hole, leads into the cowl. Should not be plugged, IMHO.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

resq302

I agree that the hole is intended for a drain.  I also have a hunch that it serves double duty as holding the windshield up a certain height to allow the trim to be able to clip on.  Otherwise if it was all the way down, the clips might not be able to pop in easily.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

doctor4766

Quote from: resq302 on May 23, 2012, 09:49:27 AM
I agree that the hole is intended for a drain.  I also have a hunch that it serves double duty as holding the windshield up a certain height to allow the trim to be able to clip on.  Otherwise if it was all the way down, the clips might not be able to pop in easily.
I'd tend to agree there resq.
From memory those tabs lock into the bottom of the rubber to stop it from sliding too far forward.
Pretty sure my Aussie Charger has the same setup, but with more tabs.
Gotta love a '69

resq302

From what I recall, I seem to remember there being either 2 or 3 of them on the bottom of the windshield channel.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Lord Warlock

Was wondering about whether to fill those drain holes or not, one side the hole rusted a bit around the edge, and on mine is a little larger than the other side, but its still nowhere near any edge.  I ground out the edges to stop the rust from growing further, but now wonder if the drain hole needed to be filled or not before i have the windshield reinstalled.  Have to get the vinl top reinstalled first, then the glass goes back in. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

resq302

no, the lower holes where the bent over piece of metal is should NOT be filled.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Lord Warlock

Good to know, one less thing to worry about.  Now i can focus on color sanding and buffing the back end to install the stripe.  guess i'll have to make arrangements for the top soon. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

1BAD68

Make sure you put sealer in the bottom corners. I installed mine and had leaks in the corners until I pumped them full of urethane.


resq302

According to the factory service manual, you are not supposed to use urethane but it calls for 3M Bedding and Glazing compound.  It is very similar to a liquid butyl and remains flexible and can also be removed vs. the urethane bonding to the rubber gasket making reusing the gasket impossible.  The factory service manual also calls for the compound around the bottom edge and corners of the gasket and windshield also.  I ended up going all the way around with mine when I pulled it out after the glass company refused to put any on when they installed my windshield.  Knowing I would have a leak, I pulled the windshield out myself and redid it the correct way.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto