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Leaky Superbird - Glass thickness?

Started by 70Sbird, May 23, 2009, 03:20:23 PM

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70Sbird

Nothing leaking out, but water leaks in!
Since my Dash cluster is still out of the car and I have everything out from under the dash but the heater box, I decided to find the water leak that keeps getting my feet wet when I drive in the rain (not by choice).
I took off all of the stainless trim around the windshield and attacked it with the hose. It looks like the seal between the glass and the rubber seal is not sealing. The seal is a Year One part that I bought in 2001 and had a glass guy put in when I had the front of the car painted in 2002. I opened up the gasket and took the windshield out this afternoon and it came out rather effortlessly and in one piece(first time for everything). there does not appear to be any sealer used between the glass and rubber gasket. I did a search on the forum and saw that other people have had issues with the thickness of replacement glass (mine has been replaced at least once before and is a "Guardian" brand).

Here are my questions:
How thick is the glass supposed to be? mine is .226 inches thick.
What should I use to seal the windshield into the channel of the rubber seal when I put it back in?

Thanks!

Scott Faulkner


mikepmcs

Beat me to it, that's the thread I was looking for. :lol:
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

hotrod98

The thin windshields usually seal okay with the new replacment gaskets. You need to use 3M bedding compound all along the bottom and at least six inches up the side. Place the gasket in place along the bottom making sure that it is centered and behind the molding clips. Clean the windshield edges thoroughly with glass cleaner. Don't use sealant along the edges of the glass. Set the windshield down into the gasket and start working the gasket out over the glass, starting at the bottom. Should be no leaks. Anyway, that's the way that we do it. Just installed one this way last week in a 67 GTX. We don't use rope to install them. That's only for gaskets that slip over the pinch weld all of the way around.
I'm sure you'll get several other suggestions after this one. Good luck.


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

Hemidog

I used butyl/urethane all around the glass, but I used too much, and the sealant now shows between the glass and gasket  :brickwall:. I also used it around the bottom and some up the sides as hotrod98 did.
I used the rope/wire method, which was pretty easy.
The most time consuming is cleaning up afterwards!

mikepmcs

I use the never wash my car or drive it in the rain method. ;D

Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

70Sbird

Thanks for all the fast responses!
since my initial post I went back out to the garage and was cleaning up/drying around the seal and realized that there were some areas of the A pillar that did not appear to be sealed! well once again, one thing led to another  :brickwall: and a few tugs later and the entire seal came off of the car. I'm guessing that the guy who installed it used urethane because it sure didn't stick to the rubber too well, and it peels off of the channel fairly cleanly. So now I'm at square one, gasket and glass out of the car
:rotz:

Scott Faulkner

b5blue

I used a tube of "ADCO  ADCOSEAL  WB-300" I got it from Safelite shop. It matched the factory spec. and if I had put a bead inside where the glass goes (like the FSM said to) I wouldn't have the little leak between the gasket and glass I do now! ADCO 1-800-424-9300

maxwellwedge

Check your wiper pivot seals while you are at this stage as well.

XS29J8

HEMI 68 CHARGER R/T- 4-SPEED- 3.54 DANA- PP1 RED- BLACK VINYL TOP- PEARL WHITE UPHOLSTERY-STRIPE DELETE- AM 8 TRACK- NON CONSOLE- DRIVEN YEAR ROUND IN SOUTHWEST FLORIDA http://900z1.multiply.com/  http://kawasaki-z-classik.com/index.php  https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AmY22PaMZ1H3dFczVWR2ZlJaX1BvTDFIVUdUZVlseWc&hl=en&authkey=CPi1hp8J#gid=0

hotrod98

Urethane doesn't stick to the new rubber gaskets very well. That's why we use the 3M bedding compound. I believe it's a butyl.


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

daytonalo

That is a simple one , go buy a 12 k Kia to drive in Rain and leave Superbird in garage until sunny day

A383Wing


Just 6T9 CHGR

Mine had the same problem of water leaking between the glass & gasket & NOT from he gasket to the body.

This time around I used Bill's glass guy's suggestion & pumped in some urethane in the bottom channel of the glass/gasket before locking up the gasket.

Waited till the next day to cut off the excess with a blade.....so far so good
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


resq302

Chris,

Was this between the gasket and the glass or the gasket and the body under the lower windshield trim?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Just 6T9 CHGR

Quote from: NOT Just 6T9 CHGR on May 24, 2009, 05:46:14 AM
Mine had the same problem of water leaking between the glass & gasket & NOT from he gasket to the body.



Yes....
From the lower section of the glass
Chris' '69 Charger R/T