Ignition lock removal? UPDATE

[terrible one]

I'm trying to remove the lock cylinder from my ignition switch to replace it. I see the pin that (I think) you are supposed to press to get it to come out but while pressing the pin down as far as I can I still can't get it to come out of the switch? Is there a special trick to this?

[Hemidog]

I don't think so, do you have the cylinder in the off position? Sometimes when I pull the key out, the cylinder follows with it 

[twinscrew698]

Some times you push the pin in and then turn lock to left as you are pulling on lock...

[terrible one]

It's in the off position, and I don't have the key. Maybe you need to have it "on" for it to let the pin go all the way. Guess I'm going to bust out the drill . . .

[b5blue]

Yup ya need the key!

[Troy]

Nah, no key required (how else would you be able to re-pin a lock that you lost a key for?). You have the bezel off right?

Troy

[b5blue]

Then all you need to steal a car is to stick a rod in the hole, pull the lock and hit the switch with your finger? 

[Troy]

Then all you need to steal a car is to stick a rod in the hole, pull the lock and hit the switch with your finger? 

That would be the hard way...

FYI - there's no "switch" (internally) to hit with your finger. It's a multi-position rotary switch.

Troy

[Charger-Bodie]

Then all you need to steal a car is to stick a rod in the hole, pull the lock and hit the switch with your finger? 

It would be even easier to run a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the ballast resister and then jump the starter relay........These cars (69 and older mopars) were not designed to be theft proof ! That is for sure!

[b5blue]

Well my bad...I got a 70...key in column. Worked on car lots and have seen cars that have had their locks yanked out with a screw in dent puller!  What a mess to repair.

[terrible one]

Yeah, the bezel is off and the lock cylinder is pretty loose, the pin is just binding. 

[Troy]

Let me go grab one from upstairs and see if I can remember how I got them all apart.

Troy

[terrible one]

Right on man, thanks. 

[Chatt69chgr]

A previous thread said that you have to have the key in the lock and then put a pin in the hole in the side to get the cylinder out.  I think the door is keyed for the ign key and the glove box is keyed for the trunk key.  If that'c correct, you could just take the door lock out and take it to the locksmith and let him make a key for it.  Then you would be all set.  O/W, you will destroy the ign lock.  69's are one year only.

[terrible one]

Alright,

I fiddled with it and kind of reluctantly came to the conclusion that not having the key to turn the cylinder to the on position keeps the pin from being depressed enough to get it out.

As for the locks, I got a new set for my car: doors, trunk, ignition and have everyone but the ignition one in. One of my old door locks was royally screwed up . . . it would not turn with the key for anything, even after disconnecting the rod from it, that's why I went ahead and just got the new set of locks.

Anyways, I sure don't mind destroying the ignition lock with the drill as long as I won't mess up the switch/housing.

[Chatt69chgr]

If you could get a lock out of any late 60's Chrysler from the junkyard, you could experiment on that.  I bet they are all mostly the same.  I do realize the 69 was a one year but except for the physical size, I would say it works the same as the other years.  This way, you can destroy a crummy lock you don't car about and, hopefully, learn whether you can, indeed, drill yours out without harming the non cylinder part.  I am thinking that the cylinders themselves are probably the same for all the late 60's Mopars.

[Troy]

The 69 lock cylinder matches the 69 switch (housing) so it's also a 1 year only part. It is, however, very similar to the 62-68 version. After that Mopar went to steering column mounted switches.

My switches are no longer in my room so I must have moved them. I'll update as soon as I figure out where I put them (or i'll steal the one out of Dirk's car temporarily - the lock mechanism is fubar any way).

Troy

[UFO]

Just push the pin in and pull cylinder out.I use the key turned as leverage just remember to line up the tabs when you push the new one in.
Just read that you dont have a key,well then use a thin flat screwdriver and gently pry the edge while holding the pin in.

[b5blue]

Hey here's an up date on my earlier post on a 70 column lock type set up...since you have to pull the upper column bearing housing to get to the lock release hole you don't have the key in to pull the lock assembly...when the key is in an arm comes down to hit the "key in buzzer switch" so my bad there, I just changed my lock and switch 2 days ago! (after reading about smoking columns) Anyway if 69's have a key in buzzer, you may need the key in but in a certain position like run or accessory? I was in a 69 Newport yesterday and was going to check it out for you guys but the whole thing was already gone! Good Luck!   

[Chatt69chgr]

Note that 69 "C" bodies use the same ign lock as the "B" bodies.  Useful info to know at the junkyard.

[Troy]

The 69 switch should fit everything made in 69.

Troy

[terrible one]

Alright, here we go . . .

Firstly, not sure where we started getting into '69 specific switches, but this is a '68.

Anyways, I went and got the new lock and verified what others have said in this thread: the pin that locks it in place will not depress unless the key is turned to the ON position. With no key in, it depresses part way and stops. With the key in, same thing. Key in and turned, it depresses all the way. That being said, I went ahead and drilled out the old one and pulled it on out, put the new one in, and that was that.

[Hemidog]