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Installing my trunk pan

Started by riggs626, May 13, 2009, 07:15:55 AM

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riggs626

OK im installing my trunk pan its a one piece from AMD now when I get everything lined up and clamped down is there supposed to be any over hang on the back of the pan where the lip is to be welded on the valance Also can anyone give any help in installing the extensions :shruggy:

superbirdtom

you mean welded onto the tail light panel. . its like a big puzzel just clamp it al together and it should fit fine. the car is sitting right there for reference really simple actualy

69*F5*SE

The upward lip on the back of the new trunk panel should meet the rear valance.  How much overhang do you have going on? Not enough/ too much?   :shruggy:  Post some pics of this while you got it going on.  Your trouble or success may help the next guy.  Like Tom said, the car is right there and it should tell you what you have to do.  But, feel free to ask questions if you're still unsure.  Good luck.   :2thumbs:

TexasStroker

Quote from: 69*F5*SE on May 14, 2009, 12:40:21 PM
The upward lip on the back of the new trunk panel should meet the rear valance.  How much overhang do you have going on? Not enough/ too much?   :shruggy:  Post some pics of this while you got it going on.  Your trouble or success may help the next guy.  Like Tom said, the car is right there and it should tell you what you have to do.  But, feel free to ask questions if you're still unsure.  Good luck.   :2thumbs:
[/quote

x2!  Pics would be a huge help.  I believe AMD pans have the 90 deg upward flange as the factory pans did.  This isn't going to be a huge flange, just a little larger than spot weld diameter.  Some, like myself, who have older trunk floor sections were graced with not having the "insignificant flange"  :eyes:  I took advice from members on here and just cleaned up the back end of the original pan before the upward swing and have it ready to be welded...I saw a few shots of it done this way and it looks fine.

If you are talking about the upward flange I'd guesstimate maybe 1" Max, although a little under 3/4" is more likely correct.  If there is just "overhang" on the back of the pan...that is a problem bc it won't fit, lol..easy to figure out by just test fitting the pan.

If I ever get to progress past my current hold-up point I'll have a decent thread on trunk floor replacement on a 69...Complete with stupid questions, random ramblings, and progress from the point of a body workin' rookie, haha  ;D
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runningman

The lip on the back of my AMD panel was stamped a little off and doesn't match up exactly, I am going to have to slice it and move it back to meet the tail panel and reweld.  Kind of a PITA.......

green69rt

I'm working in the same area right now.  It looks like the trunk floor should be welded to the rear frame rail cross member.  When this happens then the rear valence should butt up against the floor or rear cross member really close.  Then the remaining gap is sealed with seam sealer.

This seams like a crappy way of sealing up the trunk.  I had planned to trim or add metal to the trunk floor to make the seam sealer less of an issue.  I will also tack the rear valance to the TOP of the rear cross member to keep it from flexing so much then seam seal it.  I would sure be interested in how others have handled this joint??

69*F5*SE

Yes, the trunk pans are stamped with the area that the rear frame rail crossmember "or pan support" is located (approx. in the middle of the trunk area).  That area of the pan rests on top of the support which should help line up the pan where it should sit. It gets welded to the support.  With the pan in, look underneath to make sure that it's sitting on the support correctly. This could help show whether the pan is too far forward or too far back.  I hope this helps.   :shruggy:

green69rt

Quote from: 69*F5*SE on May 15, 2009, 08:58:18 AM
Yes, the trunk pans are stamped with the area that the rear frame rail crossmember "or pan support" is located (approx. in the middle of the trunk area).  That area of the pan rests on top of the support which should help line up the pan where it should sit. It gets welded to the support.  With the pan in, look underneath to make sure that it's sitting on the support correctly. This could help show whether the pan is too far forward or too far back.  I hope this helps.   :shruggy:

Yeah, but what do you do about the seam where the trunk floor meets the valance??  Sealer only or is it welded then sealed?

69*F5*SE

The upward flange gets plug welded to the valance.  As far as seam sealer, I'm not sure but, I would think it gets slapped on just like the other seams.  Someone with more knowledge of where all the seam sealer goes may have to jump in. 

green69rt

Quote from: 69*F5*SE on May 16, 2009, 07:27:29 AM
The upward flange gets plug welded to the valance.  As far as seam sealer, I'm not sure but, I would think it gets slapped on just like the other seams.  Someone with more knowledge of where all the seam sealer goes may have to jump in. 

Whoops, forgot one important point.  The trunk floor halves that I have don't have an upward flange, they just run flat out to the rear crooss member.  I got the floor a couple of years ago.  Things have gotten better with AMD in the market.  Anyway I guess I will fab a small flange to weld to my floor and then to the rear valance.  Not a big deal but more weekend time!

69*F5*SE

Yes, you'll have to fab a flange for the rear area of the older pan.  Plug weld the flange to the rear crossmember with it butted up against the rear valance then plug weld it to the valance.  Grind off all your excess weld then install the pan on top of the flange and plug it to the flange.  Always use a good weld thru primer like 3M or SEM on all these areas before welding them up for rust protection.  I looked in my service manual and the rear seam does get seam sealer.

green69rt

Quote from: 69*F5*SE on May 16, 2009, 01:40:46 PM
Yes, you'll have to fab a flange for the rear area of the older pan.  Plug weld the flange to the rear crossmember with it butted up against the rear valance then plug weld it to the valance.  Grind off all your excess weld then install the pan on top of the flange and plug it to the flange.  Always use a good weld thru primer like 3M or SEM on all these areas before welding them up for rust protection.  I looked in my service manual and the rear seam does get seam sealer.

Thanks, looks like this is my plan.

69*F5*SE

You're welcome, glad to be helpful.   :icon_smile_big: