Suspension rebuild question

[Bobber1]

Hope some of you guys can answer a question for a converted Ford guy.....

I have rebuilt a few coil suspensions in the past, but this is my first Dodge (72 Charger) and torsion bar experience. I have completely torn the front end apart, and replaced EVERY bushing with Moog parts. I torqued everything to spec. I put the tires on today and lowered the car back down. It is stiff as a board. I am a 260 pound person, and even with me bouncing on it, I get no deflection, the shocks don't move in even an inch (yes, I put them in a vise and pushed them out before I installed). The front end almost bounces off the ground and still no movement from the suspension. The motor is not in yet, and I know that will add more weight, but is this normal? Shouldn't the suspension move and the shocks give with me bouncing on it? Did I over-torque the torsion bars when I reinstalled??? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[b5blue]

Yup! You can't set "ride height" till full weight is on the K frame anyway so back them bolts off....you do know you don't tighten them all the way to the adjuster piece right? What motor are you putting in? Did you leave the lower control arm pivot's just "finger tight" if not you are twisting the heck out of your lower control arm bushings 

[Bobber1]

Thanks BK.....

I am putting in a slightly warmed up 318. The adjusting bolts on the torsion bars are currently tightened up about halfway through their range. I will go out and back these off. Yes, I did tighten the lower control arm pivots to spec, but per your advice, I will go back these off as well. Hopefully that will get me "fixed" for now", and I will set ride height after the motor is in. When I put the motor in, don't I have to take the weight off the front end again before I adjust the torsion rod bolts in?

Thanks again for your input!! I really appreciate the help. Being a converted Dodge guy now, hopefully this won't be the last torsion bar suspension I mess with.......

[b5blue]

Depending on your bars size I would think run them in till the bolt head is just nearing the bottom of the LCA for now. As you drop the motor just ease the weight down and if the front starts dropping too much raise the motor up some and crank the bolts in more. The main thing is to let the pivots move till everything is "set" so they don't shear inside.You may want to loosen them and give them a pop backwards so they unseat then snug them back up. Welcome to the club!  If ya don't have a factory service manual (FSM) get one! (the best 60 bucks I've spent on my car!)

[Bobber1]

Thanks again BK. I took all the tension off the adjusting bolts, loosened the pivot bolt, and I've got bounce.... I will take your advice and pop the torsion bars back to release the pivot. FYI, I had the bolts on the adjusters tightened so the top of the head was level with the bottom of the lower control arm, but this was too much apparently. I backed them off till there is just a slight bit of tension on them, and the bottom of the adjuster bolt (where it pushes on the lower control arm) now has about 1/4" of threads showing.

Just so am I sure on this, you don't tighten the pivot bolt until AFTER you get ride height set??? And I ordered the Service Manual earlier this week. Haynes Manual is good, but it only gets you so far. Thank you again for helping me out on this. I really appreciate your pointers.

[BigBlackDodge]

Just so am I sure on this, you don't tighten the pivot bolt until AFTER you get ride height set???


Right!

BBD

[maxwellwedge]

It is very normal to not have much suspension movement with an engine out. I would keep that pivot nut at least at half torque until the engine is in. Then torque it the rest of the way with the full weight of the car on it. Then set your ride height with the torsion bar bolts. That pivot nut does not need to be messed with after an LCA removal/re-install and final torque. You can set your ride height anytime and as much as you want after all this.

[b5blue]

I agree, the FSM assumes your replacing a LCA bushing with the motor in. when I had my 440 out I lowered the front end pretty low...just to make it easy to climb in and out of the engine bay and work on stuff. My buddy saw me take out my 14 year old FSM all ratty and falling apart (it looks more like a stack of old paper then a book) to show him the difference between his 12.00 "manual" and a FSM. He said "You remind me of an old time preacher with a 200 year old Bible...the book of knowledge!" He's got a FSM for his Bronco now. I still can't figure out the poly set up....the pivot just slides on the bushing? That means the only thing holding it in place is the strut rod and the T bar C clip? I don't like that idea!

[Bobber1]

Thanks guys. I appreciate your input. The engine will be back in about a month (hopefully) and I will be ready to button up the suspension , thanks to your advice. To summarize - because there is a little confusion - steps are:
1. Drop engine into car and bolt in
2. Tighten LCA pivot nut to spec.
3. Turn up the adjuster screws to torsion bars and set ride height.
Is this the correct sequence??? Thanks again for your pointers.
Bob

[maxwellwedge]

That sounds good!

[resq302]

Bob,

Wouldn't 2 and 3 be swapped around?  If you tighten the lower control arm pivot nut before you crank up on the torsion bar bolt, would that be causing the bushing to twist on the pivot shaft?

[Charger-Bodie]

Bob,

Wouldn't 2 and 3 be swapped around?  If you tighten the lower control arm pivot nut before you crank up on the torsion bar bolt, would that be causing the bushing to twist on the pivot shaft?

I agree. I'm not sure what factory recommendation is , but I adjust the bars to the proper ride height then torque the nuts.

[b5blue]

YUP! I just want to clarify that on my post I kept the front end low to install my 440 because #1 I did it alone and #2 it is so darn heavy it was easier to bring it in lower and once in the engine bay raise the front up (I had blocks under the tranny and lowering the front end angled it up to mate with the engine, then raising the front end let the engine nest in the mounts) it worked like a charm. 

[Mike DC]

 
Even a small motor like a 318 generally weighs like 600+ pounds by the time it's got a transmission on the back of it.  It'll weigh down the front end pretty well after the drivetrain is back in.

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Also, you'd make your life easier if you have the front end jacked up (wheels dangling or at least not so much weight on them) as you turn the ride height adjusters.  Otherwise you've got the entire vehicle's front end weight to move upwards or downwards with every turn of that bolt. 

[b5blue]

GOOD POINT 

[Bobber1]

Thanks to all for your input. I think I am ready to tackle her....once I get the dang engine done......

I appreciate your advice and pointers.
Bob