Okay...some more electrical issues

[69bronzeT5]

Let's see....my gas gauge and temperature gauge do not work on the Duster. Also, my wipers don't work. When you turn them on, there is a sound in the wiper motor but they don't actually move. Also, when you go to start it, you have to hold and push the column shifter up a bit before it'll turn over. What's up?

[TUFCAT]

when you go to start it, you have to hold and push the column shifter up a bit before it'll turn over. What's up?

neutral safety switch, or linkage adjustment.

[A383Wing]

Let's see....my gas gauge and temperature gauge do not work on the Duster. Also, my wipers don't work. When you turn them on, there is a sound in the wiper motor but they don't actually move. Also, when you go to start it, you have to hold and push the column shifter up a bit before it'll turn over. What's up?

We'll try this in order...

Gas gauge issue possibly the voltage limiter behind the cluster.....

Wiper motor issue possibly frozen wiper motor of wiper linkage

Shifter issue sounds like an adjustment problem like stated before

[69bronzeT5]

Is the voltage limiter something that's replaceable? How hard and how much

[A383Wing]

Yes...it's replaceable...you can find them at NAPA for around $20 or so....I build an electronic version, all transistor....it just plugs into the rear of the dash cluster. Pic below

[Nacho-RT74]

Let's see....my gas gauge and temperature gauge do not work on the Duster.

Fuse or voltage limiter... limiter is available all around.

Also, my wipers don't work. When you turn them on, there is a sound in the wiper motor but they don't actually move.

time for rebuilt. Shaft is loosen from plastic gear ( gear got craked at center ). Kits are on ebay. Can be done at home with the rebuild kit, not a SCIENTIST job. need to open the wiper housing drilling the rivets though, and replace it for screws and nuts ( or new rivets ). I think kits alreadt provides the screws.

Also, when you go to start it, you have to hold and push the column shifter up a bit before it'll turn over. What's up?

some in relation with linkage and NSS ?

[y3chargerrt]

If the limiter is bad your oil pressure gauge will also be bad. The limiter supplies power to the oil pressure,water temp and fuel gauge.

[A383Wing]

I don't think the Duster has an oil pressure gauge...only a light

[Nacho-RT74]

that was what I was to say... those darts/dusters gen are lights

[69bronzeT5]

Yep, the oil and brake items on the dash are lights. Also, I got no turn signals. Oh and while the bulbs for my brake lights work and are visable in the dark, they aren't visable in day apperentley....normal for old cars?

[Nacho-RT74]

but do you have turning signals outside ? cluster lighst are an splice from front turning lights

brake light... maybe wrong  bulb... you can have there 161 bulb  and should it be 158 ( 2 watts diff between them ). Both are same bulb on exterior but 158 lights up more. Is the same than sidemarkers

if you have brake an oil lights working, then fuse what feeds the cluster constant positive power is good ( is a blue wire ), so everything is pointing out to limiter

[TUFCAT]

Yep, the oil and brake items on the dash are lights. Also, I got no turn signals. Oh and while the bulbs for my brake lights work and are visable in the dark, they aren't visable in day apperentley....normal for old cars?

Like Nacho said, the wrong bulb may be your biggest problem.  Adding to the issue can be dirty lenses and the reflective area of the housing deteriorated.

I've always removed the tail-light lenses on all my old cars to clean the inside area of the plastic housing. 

I usually fill them up with a heavy concentration of dishwash soap and water, then rinse them out several times to remove all the dust and dirt built up inside over many years.

Also, polish the outside of the lens with some plastic polish (Meguirs brand works well). Polishing makes a HUGE difference, and I've seen lots of nicely restored cars - that would look much nicer if the owner did this part of the restoration.

I would also recommened buying some very high chrome content silver paint and respray the reflective area of the housing behind the lens.

With this, and a new bulb....they should look shine like new during the day.

[Nacho-RT74]

woops, dunno why I thought we were talkin about the brake bulb at cluster... then forgett the numbers I told you LOL.

but yes... dirty lenses and housing and faded housing will help on poor light. Reversed/badly fitment position bulb too making lights up on low power filament with brakes.

Dunno if there are some dual filament dual contact with low watts on brake fillament to think that could be a reason.

[TUFCAT]

Yes, I made a whoops too and should have caught those numbers (as dash bulbs) from Nacho......anyway, 

The correct number for a dual filament brake light/turn signal bulb should be 1157. Single filament should be 1156.

Nowadays, I think they manufacture these as halogen. You should check on this.  If so, they'll cost more money, but definately worth it. 

As far as I'm concerned with tail-lamps ...when driving a classic car --- THE BRIGHTER --- THE BETTER!!! 

[Nacho-RT74]

ouch... halogen?... dunno, maybe too much heat, enough to melt the lense...