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Need Advise - Boiling Brake / Clutch Fluid in Daytona

Started by NYCMille, April 18, 2009, 07:14:20 PM

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Daytona Enthusiast

My Dad drove his Daytona daily from 1976 to 1990 and never had a problem, but that's with the stock exhaust
manifolds and no AC condenser to contend with.

Tom Q

Did you check the temps of the master cylinders?
I think the problem is infrared energy from the engine is heating the m/c, not convection energy.  My next move would be to fabricate a heat shield and see what happens as this is simple and cost effective.  There was a m/c heat shield used on trucks at some point in the 90's.  I have a nos one somewhere but I can't seem to locate it at the moment.

BTW I love your cars and what you do with them, maybe someday you will come play at Watkins Glen with me.

NYCMille

Hey Tom -

Actually working on a heat shield right now. As for the Glen... I will be down there Oct. 2nd -4th with NASA - we should DEFINITELY meet up.  :2thumbs:

Rolling_Thunder

Mike -

How about something like this ? Allow air to be pulled out of the engine bay by the air passing over the fender top scoops ?

steel mesh to cover the opening ?


The inspection plates in front of the inner fenders could be opened up...    attach a duct and aim the air at the front brakes ?  :shruggy:

Random ideas - not sure how well they would work in the real world
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

pettybird

how about header wrap?  you guys are reinventing the wheel trying to extract heat--just keep it out in the first place!

I know ceramic coated headers are pretty and all but you can grab ahold of one that's wrapped up.   

Ghoste

I don't like the wrapped headers, they rot out too quick.

mauve66

Quote from: pettybird on April 20, 2009, 06:23:25 PM
but you can grab ahold of one that's wrapped up.   

i wouldn't bet against you on that but i wouldn't try it either unless i was REALLY drunk
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

hotrod98

Well, here in Arkansas, it's been proven that the number one sentence uttered right before death is "here, hold my beer and watch this".


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

moparstuart

Quote from: hotrod98 on April 20, 2009, 08:24:04 PM
Well, here in Arkansas, it's been proven that the number one sentence uttered right before death is "here, hold my beer and watch this".
:smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol:
GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

pettybird

Quote from: mauve66 on April 20, 2009, 08:16:17 PM
Quote from: pettybird on April 20, 2009, 06:23:25 PM
but you can grab ahold of one that's wrapped up.   

i wouldn't bet against you on that but i wouldn't try it either unless i was REALLY drunk


i'm not suggesting you'd want to whistle Dixie while doing it, but it's a hell of a lot safer than grabbing an unwrapped one.  I would say it takes about 2-3 seconds before you have to let go.  the stuff does work.  you can even change plugs on a warm car--it's not fun but you won't end up with blisters. 

as far as the headers rotting out, does it still happen when they're coated first?  most people who wrap do it to $89 headers. 

NYCMille

Rolling_Thunder - hmm... interesting, and honestly, it's totally plausible
pettybird - Yep... we are definitely wrapping them.

Hopefully we'll have figured by Friday, i will keep everyone posted.

ds440

For what it's worth, I've also seen people using this:

http://www.1tail.com/sa/p/Versa-Shield_Universal_Heat_Shield_7_x24_.htm

No idea if it works, but.....?  You could just line your engine bay with gold like a Mclaren F1.  :icon_smile_wink: :rofl:
1968 Charger R/T, 440 auto.

FJMG

   So your hdr temp is at 500 but your brake fluid is boiling over 600? I am no expert but I would go and install some temporary temp gauges strategically around the engine compartment just to ensure that underhood temp is the culprit. Are you sure the problem is not closer to the calipers? Maybe the difference in front end (from your previous car) is not allowing as much air to cool the calipers? (I am assuming the tire/wheel combo is similar to the charger you ran)