timming

[slyfox]

Hi, i realised that i have the wrong coil,and ballast resitor, for my 383, i bought the originals instead of the blaster one, same with the ballast resitor, for the electronic ignition, once i correct my mistake, do i have to retime the engine?  it's set at 12 dec. at 2000 rpm.  thanks  Sly

[maxwellwedge]

Nope - If that is the timing you want. Only twisting the distributor is going to change timing. Where did you come up with 12 * @ 2000.......just curious.

[slyfox]

that's what my engine builder set it at, should i change it?  Thanks

[b5blue]

Remember the resistor and coil are a matched set, setting the timing depends on how your dist. is set up, is it stock or re curved, factory or after market? 12 @ 2000 is not a normal reference...initial or all in are, not that 12 @ 2000 is wrong. 

[slyfox]

Hi, i bought the electronic ignition conversion kit part num. P3690427 from mopar performance, i instaled balast resitor part num. P4529795, instead of part num. p2444641, and i went with coil restoration part num. 02495531, instead of blaster coil num. 4876732, there's a back order for the coil, about 100, so i'm going with MSD blaster 2 coil, high performance, part num. 8202, i hope this will solve some of the problems i'm having, since i'm new at this , will this make my motor performe better, and start better when cold? Thanks   Sly

[b5blue]

The best advice I can give you is a Big Block "B-RB" Engines book part number P4876825. It's going to show you how to build/fix your 383 and is really good starting point for where your at. (not to mention what you can do later)  That and a Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your car are the best money you can spend!

[slyfox]

thanks,

[firefighter3931]

Hi Sly, sorry i must have missed this post somehow. 

As we discussed at the car show your timing needs to be tweaked for better performance. The 383 needs more initial (idle) advance....something in the 12-15* range. Then once the base timing is set you need to map out the advance curve to see what it's doing....ideally something in the 36-38* range at 2500rpm works well on most street applications.

Of course this needs to be done with the vac advance blocked off. It's also very important to make sure that the vac advance is plugged into a ported vacuum source and not manifold vacuum. 

Get a timing light on it and see what you've got. 



Ron

[slyfox]

Thanks Ron, i'm going to make an apointment with Doug  Miller, i wrote everything down that you mentioned, and go from there, will let you know about the progress soon,  Thanks  Sly