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anodized trim

Started by Silver R/T, April 04, 2009, 07:34:11 PM

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Silver R/T

on 2nd gen Charger (68 in particular) what is proper anodizing color, does anyone know? I could get trim reanodized locally so I was wondering if there's a particular color it needs to be? I have new trim except for C-trim and I don't see spending $150 on a set when mine just need to be reanodized (it's just pitted)
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Chatt69chgr

Not sure where the C-trim is but read up on anodizing a little.  If you want a shiny finish, you must mechanically polish the piece first.  A dull finish is yielded by lightly scuffing the piece with abrasive.  The color of the anodizing depends on the current/voltage level during the process.  A lower current gives a silvery finish where a higher current gives a yellowish finish.  After the part is anodized, a dye can be added to yield any desired color.  The dye is sealed with a nickel acetate bath. 

maxwellwedge

Fixing your pitting and re-anodizing will be a lot more than $150.00

Silver R/T

Quote from: maxwellwedge on April 04, 2009, 08:22:21 PM
Fixing your pitting and re-anodizing will be a lot more than $150.00

not if you know someone who works does anodizing for living
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

68charger383

I think if its pitted, your done. Even if you restore and recoat it, it will have a tendency for the area where it was pitted to start cording again, Just might be easier to buy the new moulding then to restore the old. Plus your looking at around 3-4 hours to restore the pieces, so that would probably justify spending the cash on the newer pieces.  :Twocents:
1968 Charger 383(Sold)
2003 Dodge Viper SRT-10