What's the secret to a good rear main seal install on a 400?

[WH23G3G]

I always see restored cars with rebuilt engines and it seems like the rear main seal is always still leaking. I had all my machine work done by a machine shop. The crank was said to be in really good shape and only needed a polishing from the machine shop. I of course put new bearings all throughout the engine. What is the best way to keep this rear main seal from leaking when installing it? I'll be using the original retainer and 12 point retainer bolts that all look good and clean. I'm using the standard KS2110 Fel-Pro gasket kit. The engine rebuild book I'm following says to cement the to side seals on the retainer and insert the lip seal in the retainer and the block. Let the side seals cure while laying the crank but that's already done. Another book I have says to dip the seals in diesel fuel and to hurry up with the installation. What's the suggested method?

[1969chargerrtse]

My 440 was rebuilt by a pro, and it leaks 8 months later.   I'm hearing ya.

[Nacho-RT74]

 

[John_Kunkel]

Most of the factory aluminum seal retainers out there left the factory with rope seals installed in them, pounding the rope seal into the retainer distorts the "V" groove so that it won't properly hold a Neoprene seal.

Milling .010" or .020" off of the mating surface tightens the seal as does using a brand new retainer. Then replace the side seals with a bead of RTV.

[62 Max]

My 440 was rebuilt by a pro, and it leaks 8 months later.   I'm hearing ya.

Mine was done by uneducated me,hasn't leaked a drop in 17yrs!

[Chatt69chgr]

John-------I'am getting ready to put my engine together.  Was planning on using the old retainer.  You've got me worried now.  I think I would like to get a new retainer.  Who would you suggest I source one from?  Mopar?  440Source, someone else?  I'd like to know that I have done everything I can to keep the seal from leaking.  I wasn't planning on using a rope seal either.  Was planning on using the newer style neoprene.

[RD]

before you buy an aftermarket retainer, read here:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,51149.0.html

[John_Kunkel]

My best luck has always been with the dog turd (rope) seal, millions of factory motors never leaked.

[mopar_nut_440_6]

My best luck has always been with the dog turd (rope) seal, millions of factory motors never leaked.

I also have never had a rope type seal leak.

[rav440]

stupid question time .

what is involved in removing and replacing the rear main seal ? 

[Chatt69chgr]

Seems like I read somewhere that the rope seal used to be made out of asbestos and that it swelled up after being exposed to oil.  Does MOPAR make the rope seal still or is it a commonly available item that can be purchased from Autozone, etc?  Or is there a place that everyone uses to source the rope seal?  If so, I'll probably just order one right away.

[WH23G3G]

My rear main seal in the Fel Pro kit KS2110 was a different one than was on my engine when I took it apart. It had the two neoprene lip block seals. The side seals were weird. My original that I took off looked like flat pieces of rubber cemented on the retainer. The ones in the KS2110 kit are like pipe cleaning wire with the little hairs on the side. It's an a little envelope in the gasket kit and says "Water Absorbing Inserts". I don't even see how those can be put on. It's not like you can cement those on the side of the retainer. The one in the Mopar Performance catalog looks different and has the flat side retainer seals not those water absorbing inserts that came in my kit. Part #P4271961 is what I was looking at.

[defiance]

what's involved is pulling the oil pan, removing the two seal retainer bolts, and pulling it.  Of course, pulling the oil pan means it's pretty rough to do it in the car...
Unless you've got a girdle and/or windage tray, then it starts getting a bit tougher (I had both )

I would not recommend the 440source retainer.  I have and love quite a few of their products, so this isn't a 440source bash, I just didn't like their retainer. 

In fact, I'd STRONGLY recommend doing what it takes to get a stock retainer.  I've yet to find an aftermarket retainer that allows for proper oil drainage, and that became a huge problem for me (as noted in the thread above). 

[Nacho-RT74]

mount the rope kind seal involves remove the crank. However a mechanic make to replace it on mine once just loosening a little bit all the mains to get a gap enough to slide the rope seal on top and then tightening, still with engine in place.

[WH23G3G]

I just realized I totally messed up. I can't believe I did this. While I was waiting on my engine gasket kit to arrive I assembled the engine. I've got the rods, pistons, and everything in. Can't I still put the rear main seal in the block? I've got the two rubber type seals and the water absorbing side seals. My original retainer has been bead blasted and washed I just need to make sure I can still get the seal in the block without having to take everything out again. 

[Nacho-RT74]

if is the rubber seal, definitelly yes... just need to be slided in.