anyone used repro rear valance panel?

[CB]

Is it good quality?
Does it need a lot of trimming?

[six-tee-nine]

No longer thinking of selling your '69???



(ya dam'n right)

[JimShine]

It depends on who made it. I bought a Goodmark for the '68 and its real nice. My '69 came with an unknown repop that is shorter than it should have been. It required specially fabricated corners to make it happen.

[694spdRT]

I was satisfied with the one I used.  Out of all the repo panels I used that fit the best out of the box.

[cudaken]

 Christian, had no problems with mine. Used the in caps as well. Did them a little driffrent and will not effect welding them on. I uesd steel rivets to but mine on? Reason was so I could pull them off when I wanted to clean the back of them when I want to and under coat as needed.

I know it sounds odd, but I think a little odd as well. If you want more details I will PM you. My quarters do not have out trunk floors for the same reason.

                                               Ken

[CB]

yea, send me some pics, I'd love to see that.
Thanks

[cudaken]

 Are you installing booth parts in the PIC or just the outer panel? Here is a link for what I call the Tie Bar. May not be the right term. It is the panel the connects the rear frame rails.
                    Rear Cross member exits L+R Charger 1969

If it does not work as a link, it is only about two posting down from yours as of now.

On the outer valances (holds back up lights) I don't have my back on the Charger yet. Remember mine frames rails rusted in half? While I doing the repairs I took it off and sent to a friend that had it acid dipped for me. Well, one thing led to another and I forgot I gave it to RICH. He also forgot I gave it to him. Dipper forgot that Rich gave it to him as well. I have it back, just not installed again.

But this his how I did it the first time. Frist I lined up the outer end caps with the center pices and marked where thet needed to go. Tap's on the end caps are not very big, so I cut some sheet metal and rivted them to the end caps and quarter panels. Lined them up and riveted them together from under of the Charger. Attached sheet metal to the ends of the ceneter section on the end's. Center section goes under the rear bumper, riveted the ceneter under the bumper, rivited the ends to the center. I then used a seam sealer to fill the gaps and painted the Charger.

Maybe in the back of my mind I knew the Charger was going to break in half If I had weld them on I would had to cut them off. This was the are still in the same shape as they where when I installed them 15 years ago.

Reason I did it that way is they catch a lot of drit, and exhaust fumes. This way all I had to do is drop the bumper, drill out the rivets and pull off, clean and re under coat and rivet back on. Seam seal the gaps again and mask off the caps and quarters and fog some paint on to the seam sealer.

  If you need some PIC I will take a few and see if I can find some old ones.

                                  Cuda Ken

[CB]

pics speak for themself. So please if you can, post orsend them Thanks (again).

The thing is, I don'twant to replace 1/4 panels ans leave a rusty cross member untouched.
I see the valance is spot welded. Not easy to take it off. 
Christian