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Driveshaft loop with gear vendors??

Started by RECHRGD, March 28, 2009, 05:05:25 PM

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RECHRGD

Our local dragstrip says they are now going to NHRA rules and I need a drivehaft loop if the car is 13.00 or quicker with an automatic transmission.  Is there anything sold that will work with this setup (see pics) that will pass tech.  In the '60's you could just weld a piece of chain to hang below the driveshaft, but I'm sure that won't cut it anymore.  Thanks,  Bob
13.53 @ 105.32


RECHRGD

Quote from: FLG on March 28, 2009, 05:50:11 PM
Here ya go  :cheers:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,41726.msg459572.html#msg459572

Thanks FLG!  I wish I had those subframe connectors!  So it looks like you can fabricate something and have it pass tech as long as it's not micky moused?
13.53 @ 105.32

firefighter3931

Bob, there are several universal driveshaft loops available on the market but those require drilling holes in your floorpans to mount them. They usually sell for ~ $25 or so. The one on Hemi Dougs car is a modified Lakewood universal loop.


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

mopar_nut_440_6

USCarTool makes this one. It is bolt in which is nice but it is a bit pricy. If you have access to some tools you could easily make your own using a universal driveshaft loop.

http://www.uscartool.com/
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

firefighter3931

Quote from: mopar_nut_440_6 on March 28, 2009, 07:32:57 PM
USCarTool makes this one. It is bolt in which is nice but it is a bit pricy. If you have access to some tools you could easily make your own using a universal driveshaft loop.

http://www.uscartool.com/


Unfortunately, the bolt-in loop from US Cartool will not work with a GV overdrive unit or a Keisler 5 speed for that matter.  :P



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

RECHRGD

Quote from: firefighter3931 on March 28, 2009, 07:28:02 PM
Bob, there are several universal driveshaft loops available on the market but those require drilling holes in your floorpans to mount them. They usually sell for ~ $25 or so. The one on Hemi Dougs car is a modified Lakewood universal loop.


Ron

Thanks Ron.  I'll start looking around.  My exhaust pipes are pretty close to the driveshaft.  Hopefully I can find one that will fit.  Bob
13.53 @ 105.32

firefighter3931

Bob, here is one that is application specific....not universal. A little on the pricy side but it should fit better than a universal part and from the looks of it....it will clear your exhaust pipes.  :2thumbs:

http://www.metcomotorsports.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MDL1700

I'm pretty sure one of the members here has this loop or something very similar on his car with either a GV overdrive or a Keisler 5spd. I can't remember who but i'm sure that i've seen it in the last couple of years.  :scratchchin:




Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

mauve66

the one from uscartool is the same one that mancini sells, i was thinking of using it but just using a longer piece of metal for the middle part so that it would reach the drive shaft, i would rather it bolt to the tranny crossmember than have to pull the carpet back up and drill new holes in the car
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

RECHRGD

Quote from: firefighter3931 on March 28, 2009, 09:53:13 PM
Bob, here is one that is application specific....not universal. A little on the pricy side but it should fit better than a universal part and from the looks of it....it will clear your exhaust pipes.  :2thumbs:

http://www.metcomotorsports.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MDL1700

Thanks Ron!  I'll have to make some measurements and check it out.  It may need to be blocked down or something as the driveshaft location is somewhat further back with the g/v.

Quote from: mauve66 on March 28, 2009, 11:24:01 PM
the one from uscartool is the same one that mancini sells, i was thinking of using it but just using a longer piece of metal for the middle part so that it would reach the drive shaft, i would rather it bolt to the tranny crossmember than have to pull the carpet back up and drill new holes in the car

M66, how would you get it past the g/v unit?




13.53 @ 105.32

Mick70RR

Those seat belt mounts look to be in right position fo the prop loop and would save drilling the floor.
1970 Road Runner, 505 cid, 4 speed, GV overdrive, 3.91 gears
11.98 @ 117 on street treads

mauve66

from what i can see in the pic the front part bolts to the tranny crossmember and then it has a flat metal strap looking piece to extend it down past the normal tailshaft to the driveshaft, i'm hoping that flat piece would run right under the GV oil pan then bolt up to the other end for the loop around the driveshaft :hack:
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

mauve66

Quote from: Mick70RR on March 29, 2009, 09:10:44 AM
Those seat belt mounts look to be in right position fo the prop loop and would save drilling the floor.


i just ran out and looked at it, they are in about the right place on my 1st gen, don't know about others, i'll have to look into it before ordering a loop and maybe do a mockup, would be better than running all that metal from the tranny cross member,  good idea thanks :2thumbs:
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

RECHRGD

Quote from: mauve66 on March 29, 2009, 09:14:18 AM
Quote from: Mick70RR on March 29, 2009, 09:10:44 AM
Those seat belt mounts look to be in right position fo the prop loop and would save drilling the floor.


i just ran out and looked at it, they are in about the right place on my 1st gen, don't know about others, i'll have to look into it before ordering a loop and maybe do a mockup, would be better than running all that metal from the tranny cross member,  good idea thanks :2thumbs:

I'd also be concerned about extending the loop support from the crossmember.  With lack of support it could have enough flex in it to create a real problem.   :Twocents:  Bob
13.53 @ 105.32

mopar_nut_440_6

Another alternative may be to use the universal driveshaft loop and weld (tack)  some  bolts to the underside of the floor pan to mount it. If you ever wanted to take it off you would only need to cut the welds at the bolt and grind back to the factory floor.
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

RECHRGD

Quote from: mopar_nut_440_6 on March 29, 2009, 01:15:39 PM
Another alternative may be to use the universal driveshaft loop and weld (tack)  some  bolts to the underside of the floor pan to mount it. If you ever wanted to take it off you would only need to cut the welds at the bolt and grind back to the factory floor.


Good idea! :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
13.53 @ 105.32

Runner

i would not tack botlts to the bottom of the floor to mount them.   some of the saffty rulles i think or a little stupid, a safty loop is not one of them. if you have ever seen a failure at speed you would agree. besides if you ever dont want the loop in the car how hard is it to weld up 4 3/8 holes and grind the weld down?


  this is what i have bob it cost me less than 10 bucks, fits great, works good.  just go to a mettal shop and get you a 2 inch piece of 6x1/4 inch inch round pipe, then get 4 feet of 2 inch x 1/4 flat bar, weld it up, drill the holes in the floor board, use a thick body washer on the inside of the car and be done with it.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/shaft/6.html



71 roadrunner 452 e heads  11.35@119 mph owned sence 1984
72 panther pink satellite sebring plus 383 727
68 satellite 383 4 speed  13.80 @ 102 mph  my daily driver
69 superbee clone 440    daughters car
72 dodge dart swinger slant six

RECHRGD

Quote from: Runner on March 29, 2009, 02:44:46 PM
i would not tack botlts to the bottom of the floor to mount them.   some of the saffty rulles i think or a little stupid, a safty loop is not one of them. if you have ever seen a failure at speed you would agree. besides if you ever dont want the loop in the car how hard is it to weld up 4 3/8 holes and grind the weld down?


  this is what i have bob it cost me less than 10 bucks, fits great, works good.  just go to a mettal shop and get you a 2 inch piece of 6x1/4 inch inch round pipe, then get 4 feet of 2 inch x 1/4 flat bar, weld it up, drill the holes in the floor board, use a thick body washer on the inside of the car and be done with it.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/shaft/6.html

Thanks Mike!  Good pictures and info.  I printed it out.  Hope to see you this year.  I say that every year though.  ::) Bob



13.53 @ 105.32

Runner

hey bob, i wanted to post this picture for you but couldnt find it, i just found it so here it is... 

71 roadrunner 452 e heads  11.35@119 mph owned sence 1984
72 panther pink satellite sebring plus 383 727
68 satellite 383 4 speed  13.80 @ 102 mph  my daily driver
69 superbee clone 440    daughters car
72 dodge dart swinger slant six

mopar_nut_440_6

Quote from: Runner on March 29, 2009, 02:44:46 PM
i would not tack botlts to the bottom of the floor to mount them.   some of the saffty rulles i think or a little stupid, a safty loop is not one of them. if you have ever seen a failure at speed you would agree. besides if you ever dont want the loop in the car how hard is it to weld up 4 3/8 holes and grind the weld down?


  this is what i have bob it cost me less than 10 bucks, fits great, works good.  just go to a mettal shop and get you a 2 inch piece of 6x1/4 inch inch round pipe, then get 4 feet of 2 inch x 1/4 flat bar, weld it up, drill the holes in the floor board, use a thick body washer on the inside of the car and be done with it.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/shaft/6.html




Nice job, that looks great!
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude