Removing paint from cowl panel vents??

[mopar_nut_440_6]

Does anybody know of any tricks for removing the paint from the cowl panel vents. I have multiple paint jobs on mine and each one is taking about 10-15 minutes to get clean. I have been using razor blades to remove most of it followed by 36 grit paper folded until it just fits into the groove. I have always done it this way but was hoping that by chance somebody has come up with a faster way.



Cheers,


James

[squeakfinder]

Wish I had a good answer for that one. I've wrapped the finer grade sandpaper around popcycle sticks before but that probably wouldn't speed things up much. A high speed sander might fit in between. Aircraft paint stripper would help, but it makes a mess. Hopefully somebody else has a better idea.

[FJ5WING]

This is what sets a great paint job apart from good enough.....preparation.
just suck it up and take your time. stand in the engine compartment while you do each of the bands.

I did this to my GTX and was thrilled with the way it turned out. even the painter mentioned how nice it looked before he layed down the paint.

[70redbee]

I used the roloc pads on a die grinder turned sideways. Fit in the grooves and did a real nice job. Only had to hand sand a few spots. I used the ones like a scotch bright pad.

[tan top]

done mine by hand , to bare metal  , 40 , 80 , 180 ....

[mopar_nut_440_6]

I used the roloc pads on a die grinder turned sideways. Fit in the grooves and did a real nice job. Only had to hand sand a few spots. I used the ones like a scotch bright pad.

Thanks guys. I have always hand sanded them as well but I do have rolocs here so I will give this a shot. This is the last thing I need to do before priming. All of the body work is done on the shell now!

Cheers,

[Drop Top]

3M make a fiber wheel that goes in a drill. Most are black but some are purple. The purple are a bit more expensive but last a little bit longer and more agresive. Its about 3" by 1/2". Takes about 15 min. to strip that area. You can get them at any auto parts store and most home improvment stores. They run around $9.00. They also work great in other tite areas. In the home stores they are located in the sandpaper or grinding wheel areas. In the auto stores they are in the auto body areas near the sand paper and bondo.

[Charger-Bodie]

Another vote for Rol-loc's and a little hand sanding.

[mopar_nut_440_6]

3M make a fiber wheel that goes in a drill. Most are black but some are purple. The purple are a bit more expensive but last a little bit longer and more agresive. Its about 3" by 1/2". Takes about 15 min. to strip that area. You can get them at any auto parts store and most home improvment stores. They run around $9.00. They also work great in other tite areas. In the home stores they are located in the sandpaper or grinding wheel areas. In the auto stores they are in the auto body areas near the sand paper and bondo.

Like this?

http://www3.3m.com/catalog/ca/en001/auto_marine_aero/-/node_GSBNVRJYY6gs/root_VJ3G0N3T7Ngv/vroot_G75KJBMR4Kge/bgel_GSHFGT2H8Fbl/gvel_CMNWB07NW5gl/theme_ca_en_automarineaero_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

[Drop Top]

Yes, Those are the ones. But if you buy them at the auto parts store they come with a stud to mount them into a drill, and you don't have to buy them in bulk. I would look for the black ones. They are a bit cheaper and more flexable. These work really well in the windshield jam areas also for paint and rust removeal. Once you get one you'll find many areas that you will use them.

[mopar0166]

I sanded mine last nite, and all i did was sand the top edges and then used a stiff wire brush to clean the sides

[mopar_nut_440_6]

I ended up using roloc discs. They cleaned out most of the paint and I used folded up 36 grit to get the left overs. It still took a few hours to do but much quicker than the alternative.

Thanks for all of the great advice.

James