69 Charger Ammeter Bypass diagram Installation

[GeneralLeeTESH]

Took the liberty to MODIFY this diagram a little bit. I am adding a thermal 20 amp DC Circuit Breaker in place of a fuseable link ! It costs 2.13 and is available from GRAINGER. It is here:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4VA77
It makes sense to use a fast resettable hi-current DC circuit breaker near the battery source (since current flows from the battery !)
(I don't want to be stuck on a long drive on a Sunday in the middle of Montana with no auto parts store around to find a fusable link) !   

[Nacho-RT74]

hey, you stolen my diagram !!! LOL

well I'm not agree with you, but is your car

burnt fuse link is the same replaceable for the circuit breaker without need to eliminate the rest . but 20 amps is a little bit lower if you ask me... no less than 40 amps what is the ammeter scale. Higher if your alternator does not provides more juice at iddle and engaged, able to feed the car. If your ammeter is not death center at idlle and engaged, you'll have high load peaks when reving up... more than 40 amps in fact quite often, to get back the juice to battery.

I have 950 amps batt, parallel wires and an alt able to feed teh complete car, even engaged and with air ( low speed blower ) and lights on, with STILLL ammeter onm death center. Then shows discharge stopped on a traffic light ( engaged but brakes on ), but barelly noticeable. I can't remember my ammeter reading more than 1/3 of scale to charge side ( or discharge ) anymore. Just when I had to crank A LOT my car because hard starting, but thats just for 1 minute as much

and in case of emergency on a road, if you fuse link burnt is not fuse link fault, problem is on another place. Once fixed you can jump directly to starter relay with anykind of wire to continue the road

[b5blue]

I get both your points but ether is to protect if something goes wrong...the thermal fuse is going to keep banging on and off with the problem not fixed...couldn't that still heat up something?Also if you run a jumper across the gauge wouldn't that make it not function? I don't know, that's why I'm asking...I'm not "knocking" ether idea!     

[Nacho-RT74]

he is thinking on not hook the ammeter, just hook both wires together.

thermal breaker or fuse link won't fix the problem you could get, just is a protection to cut the posible short coming from anywhere, cutting the power supposelly before get fire.

he STOLEN  my diagram from here:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

[Nacho-RT74]

and he is showing something similar to this:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

[b5blue]

YES Nacho I read your write up with great interest! Some things I was thinking about doing myself before I saw yours (like the relays for headlights).Very good ideas and diagrams, Thanks! My point is just that though, if the problem is not repaired the car should not be used at all  ...something big is wrong(?) You could have a melt down or fry something...I try to keep in mind that these cars were not built to last 40 years! (But they are  )

[b5blue]

Good link Thanks again!

[Nacho-RT74]

I don't like madelectrical option, because they are wrong on the first statement about thet are supposelly changing the main splice to outside the cab ( starter relay stud ) what IS simply FALSE. There is no way to change the main splice is still inside the cab UNLESS you move every related wire on splice between alt wire and ammeter to starter relay stud... that would mean to move 4 wires together to starter relay stud.

and EVEN IN THAT WAY more accesories you have, ignition switch is getting the load anyway, through acc function if you hook every new device to an acc source.

[b5blue]

By installing control relays for large amp draw components (Any type of motor or headlights) you drop the draw of amps through the dash wiring and switches at least 80% correct(?). When I rewired a houseboat several years ago I found crimp connectors that were covered with a heat shrink tube, when they are heated the tube has a sealant inside that melts and glues to the wires and crimp together. They cost allot more but to this day even the ones that have sat in saltwater in the bottom of that boat in the bilge area for 10 years now have not failed! I highly recommend them and any good boat store should have/get them.

[Nacho-RT74]

By installing control relays for large amp draw components (Any type of motor or headlights) you drop the draw of amps through the dash wiring and switches at least 80% correct(?)

Correct, but only device to really worry is the A/C or heater blower. Rest will be simply fine on stock form, as far you keep clean contacts. I'm havving a HEAVVY overheating on fuse box when hazzard able to melt the fuse box. My bad, I haven't clean the fusebox terminals as I should.

When I rewired a houseboat several years ago I found crimp connectors that were covered with a heat shrink tube, when they are heated the tube has a sealant inside that melts and glues to the wires and crimp together. They cost allot more but to this day even the ones that have sat in saltwater in the bottom of that boat in the bilge area for 10 years now have not failed! I highly recommend them and any good boat store should have/get them.

definitelly shrynkng tubes are one of the best solutions when crimping and splicing wires. I in fact SOLD after crimp

[b5blue]

I've started using "DeoxIT D100L by CAIG" on all connectors I get into. Look it up on the net, the stuff works!