Centerlining cams

[Ghoste]

I realize the importance of degreeing a cam to make sure it meets the specs on the cam card and I also understand that sometimes "lining up the dots" isn't going to have the cam installed correctly.  Assuming those things are exactly as they should be,how many of you regular engine builders play around with advancing or retarding the cam to get a desired result?

[firefighter3931]

I realize the importance of degreeing a cam to make sure it meets the specs on the cam card and I also understand that sometimes "lining up the dots" isn't going to have the cam installed correctly.  Assuming those things are exactly as they should be,how many of you regular engine builders play around with advancing or retarding the cam to get a desired result?

Shawn, I allways try to follow the manufacturer's recommendation for installed centerline. In some cases that means straight up and in other cases it means advanced. I can't ever remember retarding a cam.


Ron

[aifilaw]

In order to save money I've taken a few off-the-shelf grind cams that were "too big" for the combo on a stroker and advanced them a few degree's for the desired results and to shift the curves into a more desireable result. It never worked quite as well as a complete custom grind, but it worked.
I've never done it, and I've never seen anyone do it, or heard of anyone that tried. But I've been told "NO" by many professionals, and seen it in the simulators that if you advance or retard a cam to far (7-10+ degrees) your power curves take a dump on you, and its possible you may hit a valve with a piston.

[Ghoste]

It certainly seems feasible but wow, 7-10+ degrees?  If it needs to be moved that much wouldn't that definitely qualify as being the wrong stick for application?

[Challenger340]

 
Usually always a good idea to degree a Cam, if for nothing more than "piece of mind" even on a small street bumpstick, and a good learning curve.

Best practise is to also check a "running mate" cylinder for consistency, #1 & 6 for example.(that can open eyes on a BBM)

If it's a case of a couple of degrees, always "advance", rather than retard.  NEVER Retard ! Just makes it lazy.

[John_Kunkel]

Every quality cam that I've checked in the past 30 years was 4° advanced when installed on the dots. I've always believed this was to compensate for chain stretch.

[b5blue]

OK help me out here, I used a Mopar stock resto cam with a Mopar gear and chain...in a stock 60 over 440 re build (69 block). Chuck did the assembly and didn't "degree check" the cam. (He said with all stock he's never needed to) He races Mopar, has done over 100 big block re builds, but I still wish he had checked it. He was trying to save me money and his bill was so low for what he did that this is not a complaint about him at all. Would you guys go back in and check this if it were you? I kinda want to but I'm not done breaking it in and setting final adjustments yet.Things seem good but it's very picky about wanting Shell or Sunoco gas and I should be at 9 to 1 (Speed Pro pistons) compression letting me use any mid or prem. fuel.   

[mauve66]

on this subject is there a trick to rotating the crank when trying to degree a cam??  when i changed mine the engine and tranny were still hooked up even though i torked the damper nut down , when i tried to rotate the crank both directions to check the centerline the nut would back off and the degree wheel would move and i would have to start over.  should i have unbolted the torque convertor or put the tranny in neutral or something to prevent this from happening

[Ghoste]

In the past I've always just done it at the front of the crank but if you have that problem you could try at the flywheel.  Stupid question but you didn't have the plugs in when you were trying to turn it over?