Mitch's 69 Charger restoration -sheet metal

[green69rt]

With the heat in Houston this summer, ...

Houston !!!  This is in Houston? I need to come by and see this puppy !!!  I'll drive the Daytona over... 

Welcome any time!!!

[green69rt]

I just remembered that I did use some rattle can primer in the trunk.  Seems to be ok but not as robust as the spray on type.  Hard to explain as an amateur.

[gers1968rt]

Looking good, so are you going to replace those locating bolts? Was it difficult to remove the Por15 from the roof? Ger

[green69rt]

Looking good, so are you going to replace those locating bolts? Was it difficult to remove the Por15 from the roof? Ger

Yeah, I'm putting the "mystery bolts" back in.  Not a big deal.   The POR15 on the roof took some work to remove.  Others say that the stuff doesn't stick but I had to use a stripper wheel mounted on a angle grinder to get it off.

[sardillim]

fyi  i have had great results with the SEM metal etching primer,  no mixing needed.     Also for finish work the Clausens "all you need"high build primer works well 

[fy469rtse]

Just wanted to make a note of your use of POR15 as i see you really like it. Its a decent product for use on rusty metal but is terrible for clean unrusted metal, it won't adhear very well. I recently did a 69 Charger that had POR on some new rear whell tubs and i was able to blow it off the metal with a blow gun and high presure air. It would be better to paint the new repaired areas with a good quality epoxy primer and then as in the rocker panels coat the insides with a good undercoating. POR isn't cheap stuff and i hate to someone wasting money by improperly using a product. Looks like your doing a nice quality repair job keep up the good work.

I've heard the same thing, as you said, from others also.  So I asked around and found that by cleaning the metal with a Norton Stripper wheel I can clean the metal and also give the metal some "tooth" that makes the POR15 stick so well that I've not had any peeling problems.  In fact, if I need to get it off I've had to sand or use the same stripper wheel to get it off.  Some of the places have been coated for over two years and are holding up like new.   I did have a little problem when I first started using it just like you said but adding the "tooth" to the metal seems to have fixed it. Just as a final note, even though I'm using POR15 on all my new and old metal, I plan to blast the whole car when all the sheet metal work is done and then use a 2X epoxy primer.  For now the POR15 is keeping the rust at bay.

mitch don't blast it , you have doe repaired all bad to this car leave the por 15 , extra protection on your fantastic work

[fy469rtse]

Just wanted to make a note of your use of POR15 as i see you really like it. Its a decent product for use on rusty metal but is terrible for clean unrusted metal, it won't adhear very well. I recently did a 69 Charger that had POR on some new rear whell tubs and i was able to blow it off the metal with a blow gun and high presure air. It would be better to paint the new repaired areas with a good quality epoxy primer and then as in the rocker panels coat the insides with a good undercoating. POR isn't cheap stuff and i hate to someone wasting money by improperly using a product. Looks like your doing a nice quality repair job keep up the good work.

I've heard the same thing, as you said, from others also.  So I asked around and found that by cleaning the metal with a Norton Stripper wheel I can clean the metal and also give the metal some "tooth" that makes the POR15 stick so well that I've not had any peeling problems.  In fact, if I need to get it off I've had to sand or use the same stripper wheel to get it off.  Some of the places have been coated for over two years and are holding up like new.   I did have a little problem when I first started using it just like you said but adding the "tooth" to the metal seems to have fixed it. Just as a final note, even though I'm using POR15 on all my new and old metal, I plan to blast the whole car when all the sheet metal work is done and then use a 2X epoxy primer.  For now the POR15 is keeping the rust at bay.

mitch don't blast it , you have doe repaired all bad to this car leave the por 15 , extra protection on your fantastic work

Mitch fantastic car this will be because of your efforts, hand rebuilt much better than new, keep it green , they say genius only pick green cars , if you put the vinyl top back on consider the 68 year instead 69 yuck puke green , the 68 one two tone alligator skin look alike, will suit this gorgeous car that it will be , in awe of your work and commitment to what you can achieve , take note you young fellas who think its too big a job, message me whe your ready Mitch to tackle that strokes , just finished my victor junior headed 511 striker, glad to give any help I can, Hughes engines over there one of my favourites and so much help and detail to my build Geoff from australia

[moparcharger]

Wow, I was reading this for the 1st time and I KNOW I would not be that patient or have the skill to do what you have done.
I just purchased a 69 Charger back in November and I need to replace the back frame rails (just where the truck floor pan is) other than that the car's frame is in pretty good shape. It came with alot of brand new sheet metal for the pcs. that need to be replaced, but so far, the hood, both doors, front fenders and trunk lid are the ones that came with the car and do not need to be fixed. My body guy has not and will not start on it for a month or 2 more, but I am excited. Going to take at least a year. It's an all numbers matching car 383 auto on the floor. I was given a 440, and I am going to build it into a 440+6 and make it a 4 speed ( had 4 speeds many years ago). Might badge it as an R/T.
I have been driving myself crazy on what color to paint it. I do not want red, orange or purple. Maybe black, but hard to keep clean and it shows EVERYTHING...even dents more than other colors. Car came Dark Met. Bronze, black interior with a black vinyl top.
I am looking forward to seeing you finish it. Keep up the excellent work!

[69 OUR/TEA]

Coming along great!!!Keep up the good work !!!

[green69rt]

Getting close to having the floor in, I'll post more when its permanently attached.

[green69rt]

Well would you take a look at this.   The floor is installed.  Not without problems (maybe some I made myself ) Anyway a couple of pics to document it is really installed.  I still need to grind down all the plug welds and then a lot of cleaning and sanding before it gets primed....yeah!!!!
pics 1 and 2 shows the floor installed.
Pics 3 and 4 show a problem.  The profile of the front floor where it met the firewall seemed to be off as much as 1/2 inch.  So I cut the floor at the two bends and matched it to the firewall and then tacked some scape metal in to fill up the gaps that where created.  Got the mismatch down to about 1/8 inch which will probably be hidden by the seam sealer.

[gers1968rt]

Looks great! Must feel good to finally have it back in.

[nvrbdn]

looking good.

[cdr]

looks really good !!!!   

[ACUDANUT]

Great job !!

[tan top]

nice work 

[fy469rtse]

Well would you take a look at this.   The floor is installed.  Not without problems (maybe some I made myself ) Anyway a couple of pics to document it is really installed.  I still need to grind down all the plug welds and then a lot of cleaning and sanding before it gets primed....yeah!!!!
pics 1 and 2 shows the floor installed.
Pics 3 and 4 show a problem.  The profile of the front floor where it met the firewall seemed to be off as much as 1/2 inch.  So I cut the floor at the two bends and matched it to the firewall and then tacked some scape metal in to fill up the gaps that where created.  Got the mismatch down to about 1/8 inch which will probably be hidden by the seam sealer. Great work as usual, Mitch could you post some extra photos of putting it in , I have a friend over here in Australia up to the point, but I am too far away to be hands on help, going to get him to look at your posts for help and not be afraid to improvise to get things to fit great work

[green69rt]

Well would you take a look at this.   The floor is installed.  Not without problems (maybe some I made myself ) Anyway a couple of pics to document it is really installed.  I still need to grind down all the plug welds and then a lot of cleaning and sanding before it gets primed....yeah!!!!
pics 1 and 2 shows the floor installed.
Pics 3 and 4 show a problem.  The profile of the front floor where it met the firewall seemed to be off as much as 1/2 inch.  So I cut the floor at the two bends and matched it to the firewall and then tacked some scape metal in to fill up the gaps that where created.  Got the mismatch down to about 1/8 inch which will probably be hidden by the seam sealer. Great work as usual, Mitch could you post some extra photos of putting it in , I have a friend over here in Australia up to the point, but I am too far away to be hands on help, going to get him to look at your posts for help and not be afraid to improvise to get things to fit great work

I see what I can come up with and try to write up some more detail. Is he doing only the front or back or complete floor?

[RIDELIKEHELL]

 Keep it up Mitch 

[green69rt]

Great work as usual, Mitch could you post some extra photos of putting it in , I have a friend over here in Australia up to the point, but I am too far away to be hands on help, going to get him to look at your posts for help and not be afraid to improvise to get things to fit great work

Sorry for taking so long but I can give a couple of hints that might save some heartache.  AMD supplies the floor with the inboard seat mounting holes predrilled but not the outboard ones.   Don't get smart and drills the outboard holes before the floor is in.  I've also heard from various folks that the floor goes in as-is or it takes a lot of work.   Maybe the difference is how the original car was made, who can tell .  Mine was not painless but nothing that couldn't be overcome with some thought.  Most of the mismatch in mine was taken up in the footwell pieces that join the front and rear sections.  

I did add these parts before I put the floor sections in because I don't have a rotisserie and didn't want to weld above my head more than necessary.

Speedo cable bracket.
Inboard seatbelt reinforcement plates.
Emergency brake cable bracket.

[fy469rtse]

He is doing the entire floor like you , having a lot of trouble getting things to fit, clearance too large, gaps over cross member , floor seems bowed, sorry Mitch didn't realise you had replied

[green69rt]

He is doing the entire floor like you , having a lot of trouble getting things to fit, clearance too large, gaps over cross member , floor seems bowed, sorry Mitch didn't realise you had replied

Some of the same problems I had.   Just take time and work thru the problems.  Without being there it's hard to give advice.   Sounds like I had some of the same problems your friend had.  The back section fit fairly well for me.  The front section was the real problem.  I found that the gaps were large over the torsion bar cross member till I made some mods that let it sit down further on the front frame rail sections.   It took some sectioning of the floor over the front frame rails then all of a sudden the torsion bar cross member fit was a lot better.  Also the gap between the front and rear was not very even.  The difference was taken up by how I installed the rear foot wells.  Nothing more than 1/2 inch but enough to cause a bunch of work.

Really the important parts are to make sure the bolt holes for the seat belt anchor bolts match.  Everything else is appearance.  Most important (in my opinion) is that you do not introduce a lot of stress to the body.  Don't "pull" the parts down till they meet.  Spend a little time to bend the new floor till it settles within about 1/8inch of a good fit.  Others may have more info   Whoever has ideas please contribute.......

[projectanimal]

Very impressive, great work!   
I've been working with POR for weeks and its great stuff.  About 75% of our undercarriage is covered and all the inside!
Look forward to seeing your progress! 

[green69rt]

Would you look at this.  Pic #1...Whole car is in primer (except the underneath, it needs blasting before paint.)
Pic #2 floor in, primed and sealed (again, sealer is really stinky!!) By the way, notice the wire covers, I put those in backward, the short piece goes toward the front of the car.   Found that out after they were in.  It doesn't seem to make a dif to me so I left them alone.  For those doing a correct restoration, take note.
Pic #3 engine bay primed, and firewall sealed to floor and cowl.

Pic #4 that loooong driver quarter with the seam gone and the roof seam dressed up ( I striped some of the filler when I took the old paint off so it had to be redone.

[cdr]

lookin great Mitch!!!!!