Removing k-frame and front suspension

[runningman]

I am getting ready to remove my entire front suspension in my 68 to refinish the components and replace all the rubber parts while it gets blasted.  I have never done this before so I am wondering what the steps are and what tools I really need.  I do have access to arbor presses at work if needed.  Thanks

Matt

[Mike DC]

   
--  You wanna try to get ahold of a torsion bar clamping tool to get the old ones out.  (scratch the bars = they break later on)  Remove the torsion bars per normal instructions, and then the rest of the front suspension is held in with obvious nuts & bolts.   

--  The UCA inner bolts (holding the rubber bushings to the fenderwells) are a b*tch to turn sometimes.  Keep soaking them in penetrating oil for a good day or two ahead of time and make this easy on yourself. 


--  SOAK THE FOUR MAIN K-FRAME MOUNTING BOLTS WITH PENETRATING OIL WELL AHEAD OF TIME.  YOU DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE THINGS OUT.  The only fix for a stripped-out nut inside the car's framerail is cutting & welding on the rail to replace it.  Even if you have to drill a little 1/8" hole in the framerail to get your oil can straw adequate access to the nut inside the rail, it's worth it. 


--  The K-frame itself is light enough for one person to pick it up & carry it.  K-frame + LCAs/strut rods together is getting pretty damn heavy.  Any more than that, and you can definitely assume you will need a floor jack under it just to lower it down.  (I'm assuming the engine/tranny is already long gone from the car by the time you even start trying to remove the suspension?)   



Once the stuff is on the bench . . .


--  The UCA balljoints are screwed in, not pressed.  Many a Mopar UCA has been wrecked by repair shops trying to press them out. 


--  The LCAs will usually need the bushings to be pressed in & out.  Not a terrible job for anyone with a press & some brains, but you'll have a hard time just doing it with a bench vise or something at home. 


--  The  sway bar mounting brackets' rubber bushings (not on the ends of the bar, I mean the inner two mounting points) can be amazingly difficult to remove.  It's still not easy even after you resign yourself to destroying the old bushing in the process.   So think hard about whether you really need to replace those bushings or not before you tear into the job.
 

[runningman]

   
--  You wanna try to get ahold of a torsion bar clamping tool to get the old ones out.  (scratch the bars = they break later on)  Remove the torsion bars per normal instructions, and then the rest of the front suspension is held in with obvious nuts & bolts.   

--  The UCA inner bolts (holding the rubber bushings to the fenderwells) are a b*tch to turn sometimes.  Keep soaking them in penetrating oil for a good day or two ahead of time and make this easy on yourself. 


--  SOAK THE FOUR MAIN K-FRAME MOUNTING BOLTS WITH PENETRATING OIL WELL AHEAD OF TIME.  YOU DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE THINGS OUT.  The only fix for a stripped-out nut inside the car's framerail is cutting & welding on the rail to replace it.  Even if you have to drill a little 1/8" hole in the framerail to get your oil can straw adequate access to the nut inside the rail, it's worth it. 


--  The K-frame itself is light enough for one person to pick it up & carry it.  K-frame + LCAs/strut rods together is getting pretty damn heavy.  Any more than that, and you can definitely assume you will need a floor jack under it just to lower it down.  (I'm assuming the engine/tranny is already long gone from the car by the time you even start trying to remove the suspension?)   



Once the stuff is on the bench . . .


--  The UCA balljoints are screwed in, not pressed.  Many a Mopar UCA has been wrecked by repair shops trying to press them out. 


--  The LCAs will usually need the bushings to be pressed in & out.  Not a terrible job for anyone with a press & some brains, but you'll have a hard time just doing it with a bench vise or something at home. 


--  The  sway bar mounting brackets' rubber bushings (not on the ends of the bar, I mean the inner two mounting points) can be amazingly difficult to remove.  It's still not easy even after you resign yourself to destroying the old bushing in the process.   So think hard about whether you really need to replace those bushings or not before you tear into the job.
 

Awesome, thanks for the info.  So I will need a special socket for the UCA ball joint correct?  I think I made a tool up for the torsion bars a few years back, I will have to see if I can find it.

[BigBlackDodge]

Yes, you'll need a socket to remove the upper joint. I've found these are best removed while the UCA is still attached to the car...........some are in there pretty tight!

BBD

[runningman]

Thanks!   

[Steve P.]

Hey Mike, I like the idea of drilling a hole and spraying the top end of the bolt. It seams like I've seen cars this was done on, but never put the two together.. Great tip..   


We should have a (TIPS AND TRICKS) section... 

[runningman]

Hey Mike, I like the idea of drilling a hole and spraying the top end of the bolt. It seams like I've seen cars this was done on, but never put the two together.. Great tip..   


We should have a (TIPS AND TRICKS) section... 

Yeah I agree , this is something I will be doing this weekend. 

[Mike DC]

(Just don't ask me how I learned that one.)   

[ACUDANUT]

 What about replacing the torsion bar frame.  Any leads or ideas.  I need to do this.

[runningman]

What about replacing the torsion bar frame.  Any leads or ideas.  I need to do this.

I think someone makes this piece, Auto Rust technicians??  Is this what you need?

http://www.autorust.com/k_02.html

[ACUDANUT]

 Ya, I found those in my Mopar magazine. Thanks.

[brianz426]

Thanks for the info I need to do the front suspension on my '69 road runner 

[ACUDANUT]

 Do you have to remove the torsion bars to add the torsion frame support brackets that they make ?  I need step by step info for removing the torsion bars.  I have never done this in my 30 years of owning mopars.

[FJ5WING]

Im not sue if you have to remove them but I just did it myself for the first time and its not so bad.....Unless of course they havent been moved too much like say a squatter car and they rusted all up. 

First off you will need to get a torsion bar removal tool. (I happen to have one sitting around for about 15 years for some reason)

Release the tension on the torsion bar by turning the tension bolt counter clockwise. (It runs up throught the lower control arm)

Remove the locking /snap ring in the rear of the torsion bar. (sits in the round anchor points in the cross member)

attach the removal tool to the torsion bar and hit away!

I hope this helps and if I left something out somebody jump right in!

[ACUDANUT]

First off you will need to get a torsion bar removal tool.
(I happen to have one sitting around for about 15 years for some reason)
What do these look like and do I reaaly need one ?  How do they work ?

[FJ5WING]

sorry my camera crapped out today.....no picky!

someone will be able to tell you if you really need it but my guess is yes.

[b5blue]

It's a "T" shaped bar that clamps to the torsion bar with a plate and 4 bolts, it clamps on and you can beat the torsion bar back hitting the bottom of the "T". It keeps you from gouging the torsion bar if your going to reuse it.The torsion bar could split along the gouge from torsional force (like glass breaking along a scratch). There's a photo of one on Mancini's website.

[runningman]

Someone made one on here or Moparts out of a hunk of angle iron and some u-bolts for about $5.

I am trying to get the brake backing plates off, I am working on the drivers side right now.  Is there any trick to it?  Just the four bolts right?  There are three that aren't moving at all.....