frame rail ??

[rusty lee]

ok my left frame rail is swiss cheese from the rear bumper to the rear axel. The part over the axel is good but then theres some rott just in front of the axel by the E brake cable  so I got frame rails and more from a super bee. my question is should i section the rail to the axel and just patch the rott by the E brake cable or just replace the entire thing. the right rail has a 1/2  dollar size hole                                                                         

pics are of the left rail.  the last is about where I would cut the rail to splice.

  Thanks.

[Mike DC]

         
I'd swap it all, given that visible rot in the front.  Sectioning is best left for when the framerail rot doesn't make it as far forwards as the rear wheelwells & trunk hinge areas. 


You've got a great-looking entire subframe in front of you, I say use it.  Brace the rear 2/3rds of the body shape with some angle iron or tubing so it doesn't sag while it's apart, measure the living SNOT out of everything (like, get the unibody dimensions that the factory provided for collision work), and then swap the whole subframe intact. 

 

[mopar_nut_440_6]

         
I'd swap it all, given that visible rot in the front.  Sectioning is best left for when the framerail rot doesn't make it as far forwards as the rear wheelwells & trunk hinge areas. 


You've got a great-looking entire subframe in front of you, I say use it.  Brace the rear 2/3rds of the body shape with some angle iron or tubing so it doesn't sag while it's apart, measure the living SNOT out of everything (like, get the unibody dimensions that the factory provided for collision work), and then swap the whole subframe intact. 

 

I agree! Measure, measure, measure. Make sure the body and frame is solid and will not move and do not forget to measure distances from the floor or base up to the frame sections and also your diagonals from the front of one frame section to the rear of the other, both sides. I have also seen people use supports from a steel base up to the bottom of the rails or even pieces of 2x4's. I would recommend using a factory spec sheet for all measurements as due to amount of rot in your car there may be some sagging or the inabilty to get accurate measurements.

[lilwendal]

         
I'd swap it all, given that visible rot in the front.  Sectioning is best left for when the framerail rot doesn't make it as far forwards as the rear wheelwells & trunk hinge areas. 


You've got a great-looking entire subframe in front of you, I say use it.  Brace the rear 2/3rds of the body shape with some angle iron or tubing so it doesn't sag while it's apart, measure the living SNOT out of everything (like, get the unibody dimensions that the factory provided for collision work), and then swap the whole subframe intact. 

 

I agree! Measure, measure, measure. Make sure the body and frame is solid and will not move and do not forget to measure distances from the floor or base up to the frame sections and also your diagonals from the front of one frame section to the rear of the other, both sides. I have also seen people use supports from a steel base up to the bottom of the rails or even pieces of 2x4's. I would recommend using a factory spec sheet for all measurements as due to amount of rot in your car there may be some sagging or the inabilty to get accurate measurements.

No brainer.  Swap it as one piece.  It goes easier than you'd think. 
Take the time to media blast your replacement frames inside and out.  Get a couple good coats fo epoxy primer inside all the frame internal areas before you install then your sure never to have these issues again.

[Charger-Bodie]

Im with all the rest of these guys so far! You will be way happier with the end result and it will be far less detectable.

[rusty lee]

I was not sure about replacing the entire assembly. since the right frame rail is not bad.     so should I remove the trunk pan or leave it in? when replacing the rails. I know the pan is shot I have a new one.   Thanks

[mopar_nut_440_6]

I was not sure about replacing the entire assembly. since the right frame rail is not bad.     so should I remove the trunk pan or leave it in? when replacing the rails. I know the pan is shot I have a new one.   Thanks

I am no expert but when mine was done the entire trunk, 1/4's, inners, outers and frame rails were removed up to the top of the rear axle humps on both sides. This was a bit of work to line up. IMO I would first drill out all of the spot welds for the new frame sections after bracing the body very well as these sections you will remove are integral to the structural rigidity of the entire rear section of the car. Remember to X brace as x's give added strength. I generally try to line up my x's so I can tack the two pieces in the centre where the bars intersect for added strength and resistance to movement. You do not want the rear section either sagging in the rear or moving side to side. If your doors are on the car keep a close eye on these gaps as they will tell all. Measure them first. If the trunk pan is braced then the new frame section should fit in nicely and tie into the rear of the drivers rear floor pan and the rear section of the car. If the rear is rusty as I assume it is then all of that will need to be replaced. Having the new frame section in and braced from underneath and welded in the front will give you a nice solid starting point.

As I say I am not an expert and without seeing more pics have made some assumptions. Keep in mind that this needs to be measured a ton before any welding is done. After that tack it all in and measure again. Make sure everything lines up prior to final welding as you do not want to be trying to grind out the welds on your nice new sheet metal.

I am sure there are many people on this forum with much more experience than I so wait for more responses before getting carried away as they may have better suggestions. This is just one humble mans opinion.

Good luck, this is my favorite part of doing these cars but it does take some time. I just did the floor pan front inner fenders on my 68 and it took about 40 hours to complete and this is minor in comparison to what you are doing.

Cheers

James

[mopar_nut_440_6]

         
I'd swap it all, given that visible rot in the front.  Sectioning is best left for when the framerail rot doesn't make it as far forwards as the rear wheelwells & trunk hinge areas. 


You've got a great-looking entire subframe in front of you, I say use it.  Brace the rear 2/3rds of the body shape with some angle iron or tubing so it doesn't sag while it's apart, measure the living SNOT out of everything (like, get the unibody dimensions that the factory provided for collision work), and then swap the whole subframe intact. 

 

I agree! Measure, measure, measure. Make sure the body and frame is solid and will not move and do not forget to measure distances from the floor or base up to the frame sections and also your diagonals from the front of one frame section to the rear of the other, both sides. I have also seen people use supports from a steel base up to the bottom of the rails or even pieces of 2x4's. I would recommend using a factory spec sheet for all measurements as due to amount of rot in your car there may be some sagging or the inabilty to get accurate measurements.

No brainer.  Swap it as one piece.  It goes easier than you'd think. 
Take the time to media blast your replacement frames inside and out.  Get a couple good coats fo epoxy primer inside all the frame internal areas before you install then your sure never to have these issues again.

POR-15 and Eastwood Rust Encapsulator are also very good products for treating the inside of frame rails etc as they will treat the rust if any is still present and encapsulate it never to rust again.

[Charger-Bodie]

Sandblast the entire section you have there.

Remove those same pieces from the car,leave as much of the rest intact as you can.

Install the replacement section , weld it everywhere except the parts that will be coming out later.

The reason for leaving some of it intact is that it will be good fit reference.

After you have it welded in secure, Then remove the other parts and replace whats needed.

[rusty lee]

great info thanks