News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Crazy Acting Gauges In The 68

Started by Lostsheep, March 09, 2009, 04:53:53 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Lostsheep

I found another thread that talked about the voltage limiter maybe being the issue for my problem. But not 100%.

Long and short. The car likes to get hot at idle. It got hot and wouldnt cool down on the highway (which is very much not like my car) Trusting my gauges I pulled over at a gas station to cool it off. My gauge was at the 210 or higher mark. Seemingly got it cooled off and headed home. Notice my other gauges appeared to all be pointing to the right, rather uniformly. So I decided to flip on the headlights to see if it would draw away from the gauges. As I thought, as soon as I hit the lights, ALL of the gauges buried themselves to the left. Just to make sure, I flipped the lights off and they started to climb back to the right. Any other ideas?

Knowing some of the horror stories about the wiring in these cars. I got home and disconnected the battery.

acelondon

Good idea to pull the battery. Nothing worse the a fire in a car you can't replace. I'd Know. :brickwall:

Id start with a good flash light under the dash. Look for any melted wires.

If you dont find any problems, check you voltage at the battery with the car off, at idle, and at ~2500RPM. Post them here for the guys to look over.

Then do the same at the ACC terminal on your fusebox. I believe that's a regulated output(mods :icon_smile_question:)

If your seeing anything over 14.5volts, and then under 12 with the lights on, i'd change the regulator. Regs fail in strange ways. Like high voltage at low load, then very low voltage at high load. Sounds just like your problem. :Twocents:

If that dosen't fix it, get your alternator tested.

Lostsheep

Sweet...I'll do that tomorrow. Thx

Sublime/Sixpack

You may want to check your ammeter connections under the dash. Make sure they are clean and tight.
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

Lostsheep

I checked the voltage at the battery. I didnt get to the fuse box yet, wanted to see if this told us anything first. I did notice that the guages were acting normal.

12.4V with car off
12.2V with key on
14.5V @ idle
14.3V with fan on
14.8V to 14.9V @ 2500 rpm
It slowly climbed from the 14.3V to the 14.8V/14.9V @ 2500 rpm rev

A383Wing

Check your ground connection from the rear of the head to the firewall....I lost my ground there and all the gauges started to rise to the top when I stepped on the brake...

Just another suggestion

acelondon

Voltages arn't too bad. Start checking grounds.

Mods agree?

A383Wing

Another thought here...could be the gauge voltage limiter needs replacing, I would suggest putting the electronic style in. This is not the one under the hood, this is the little one that plugs into the rear of the dash. I used to build the electronic ones here, but there is a company out there that does it also. RTE specialties I think.

Lostsheep


y3chargerrt

90 bucks??? Get the electronic one for 50.

A383Wing


resq302

Wow thats a lot of money for that thing.  I ended up converting ours in our 70 chally from the points style to the electronic style and cost me about $5 in parts from my local Radio Shack.  I think moparts.com has a thread on how to convert them yourself.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

A383Wing

Yes..I built them from my house and sold them for $35 I think.......but for those who are "electrically challenged"...the $50 version is the way to go.

y3chargerrt

The RTE electronic is much more then a 7805 regulator and resistor.

A383Wing

Quote from: y3chargerrt on March 21, 2009, 10:11:42 PM
The RTE electronic is much more then a 7805 regulator and resistor.

Yes...thus the reason it's $50 well spent if said persons cannot build their own

Lostsheep

So y'all are saying NOT to buy this booger? This is the one that is $39. Im not finding RTE Specialties on the web.


A383Wing


Lostsheep


Dans 68

1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

Lostsheep