4 speed clutch question

[cavemanno1]

Hi guys!

I was just wondering if you could give me some clutch option i should go for in my '68 r/t 4 speed.
I haven't seen the car yet so no idea of the condition of the trans.

Is it unwise to get a rebuild kit or clutch till we take it apart?Bare in mind i'm in Hungary so can't just order anything and it will turn up 3-4 days later!
Any tips,suggestions would be appreciated!

Thank you!

Peter

[Troy]

Well, being here I wouldn't spend money until I knew I needed one. But... when you do need one, the McLeod brand stock style (Borg and Beck) works pretty well.
http://brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=253

Troy

[cavemanno1]

Thanks Troy!

Why are there so many different ones?'30 tooth,143 and 172 then 10.9" and 11.9".Which one i'd have to buy if i need one?I have no idea of the size of the flywheel so can not buy any of them yet!

How could someone tell the number of tooth just by looking at the flywheel?Is there any serial number or specific markings of them?

Thanks,

Peter

[c00nhunterjoe]

You are going to need to know what size flywheel and bellhousing is in the car before you order parts. Unless you are installing a blowproof bellhousing, then you can order ahead of time.

[XH29N0G]

And I believe it is just inspecting it.  I also heard good things about the McLoed clutches, but the person who put mine in used a centerforce which has operated well so far.  I have not dropped it from high RPM though.  Just adding that I think there are options, but I have heard the recommendation that Troy gave many times so would go that way.

[BLK 68 R/T]

You will also want to verify the splines, if original it will be the 18 spline transmission. But it could be a 23 spline depending on what car it came from if not original.

[birdsandbees]

Put a factory clutch assembly in the 'Bee in 1980 and smoked it the very next day. I then put in a McLeod Street and Strip a week a later and it's still in there after about 45,000 miles of serious abuse as a teenager. Will be having a good look at it in the month or so to come now that my drivetrain is sitting in front of my tool box.

[Troy]

The reason I didn't point you to a specific one is because I have no idea what's in your car. A 68 R/T from the factory had an 18 spline transmission (input shaft) and an 11" 143 tooth flywheel and an iron bell housing. The 383 and smaller engines had a 23 spline transmission but the large flywheel and bell. In 1970 Chrysler (mostly?) switched to the 10.5" 130 tooth flywheel with a smaller aluminum bell. Most of your linkage (clutch fork, z-bar, etc.) is dependent on your bell/flywheel size so it must all match! The bell housing must be the same as your flywheel primarily because that's what locates your starter so that the teeth engage.

I have heard that the smaller clutch/pressure plate assembly can fit the larger flywheel if you want a little less weight (leave everything else alone!). The holding power is about the same.

"Diaphragm" style clutches require less pedal effort which is why there's a warning to remove the over center spring on the pedal. This thing is under an extreme load and can smash/remove your fingers if you aren't careful. Whenever you're in there messing with linkage make sure the pedal is tied up with something strong (this spring is pulling the pedal towards the floor to offset the clutch "pushing" it toward the driver).

Troy

[1974dodgecharger]

And I believe it is just inspecting it.  I also heard good things about the McLoed clutches, but the person who put mine in used a centerforce which has operated well so far.  I have not dropped it from high RPM though.  Just adding that I think there are options, but I have heard the recommendation that Troy gave many times so would go that way.

I have the same thing clutchforce diaphragm setup with over spring removed.....I have dropped from 4th gear running 3500 rpm to 3rd goes up to nearly 5k rpm or so.....so its been good so far for me also.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I have the centerforce dual friction 11" clutch in mine. Its fine on the street but does not like slicks at the track and powershifts.

[1974dodgecharger]

I have the centerforce dual friction 11" clutch in mine. Its fine on the street but does not like slicks at the track and powershifts.

I power shifted a couple times with mine and yeah it wont catch it to stop the spinning, lmao....unless that's something else wrong.....

[c00nhunterjoe]

I have the centerforce dual friction 11" clutch in mine. Its fine on the street but does not like slicks at the track and powershifts.

I power shifted a couple times with mine and yeah it wont catch it to stop the spinning, lmao....unless that's something else wrong.....

Im not following?

[cavemanno1]

Thanks Troy!
The trans is original just like the Dana60.
So how do i tell which clutch i have or flywheel?
The flywheel cover is missing so should i see any part numbers on the front of it?

[XH29N0G]

I have the centerforce dual friction 11" clutch in mine. Its fine on the street but does not like slicks at the track and powershifts.

Can you elaborate on what it does?  I am assuming you mean it slips, but just want to know what to look for. 

Part of what I meant to write above (about it working fine for me, but I had not tested it by dropping the clutch with the engine at high RPM) was that I had not tested it as you describe.   I hope to go to the track sometime and figure it would be god to know what to look for or whether there are precautions I should take.

[Troy]

Thanks Troy!
The trans is original just like the Dana60.
So how do i tell which clutch i have or flywheel?
The flywheel cover is missing so should i see any part numbers on the front of it?

The bell housing will have casting numbers on it - but, unfortunately, they are on the back side where it meets the transmission and can't be seen unless you take them apart. If it's aluminum it definitely isn't the stock piece. I'm sure that the inspection cover (and therefore the hole in the bottom) is different but I don't know the measurements and I don't know how many teeth will be visible with either. I only have the 11" versions. Maybe I can get close enough to one to find a way to identify it.

If you can get to the top of it there should be a date code and possibly a VIN number.

Troy

[c00nhunterjoe]

I have the centerforce dual friction 11" clutch in mine. Its fine on the street but does not like slicks at the track and powershifts.

Can you elaborate on what it does?  I am assuming you mean it slips, but just want to know what to look for. 

Part of what I meant to write above (about it working fine for me, but I had not tested it by dropping the clutch with the engine at high RPM) was that I had not tested it as you describe.   I hope to go to the track sometime and figure it would be god to know what to look for or whether there are precautions I should take.

Side step launch at 6k on slicks results in disc odor. Powershifts result in slight flair. On the street it is fine.

[six-tee-nine]

To extend this a bit. I have stock 11" cast iron bell wich I'd like to keep. I have no flywheel yet, but I see the stock 143 tooth flywheels passing by from time to time on the forums over here in Europe.

My question is, should I buy one and save a buck or should I invest in a aftermarket billet flywheel.
I have no real racing with sticky tires intentions, but some street battling with the occasional power shifting will be the case more than often.

[Troy]

To extend this a bit. I have stock 11" cast iron bell wich I'd like to keep. I have no flywheel yet, but I see the stock 143 tooth flywheels passing by from time to time on the forums over here in Europe.

My question is, should I buy one and save a buck or should I invest in a aftermarket billet flywheel.
I have no real racing with sticky tires intentions, but some street battling with the occasional power shifting will be the case more than often.

I am no expert... but I don't see any reason why a good factory flywheel wouldn't do exactly what you need. A few years ago when I was looking the "performance" flywheels all seemed to be the smaller ones. Probably because the after market scatter shields all take that size and they must have *assumed* that if you were racing it wouldn't be with a stock bell.

Troy