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RV2 A/C Compressor Oil

Started by BlueSS454, February 17, 2009, 12:28:04 AM

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BlueSS454

THis is in reference to the sump at the bottom of these A/C compressors.  The one I had on the Charger snapped one of the connecting rods I am guessing from lack of oil in the sump.  What oil is suppose to go in there?  From the looks of it, it doesn't use the refridgerant oil as it appears to be a completly separate system within the compressor.  There's a little plug on the side to add in oil also.
Tom Rightler

Nacho-RT74

there are diff kind of oils according with gas you are using ( R12, R134 or whatever )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

BlueSS454

I know what oil I need to use for the refridgerant, but what I need to know is...is there a specific oil for the "crankcase" of the compressor where the crankshaft and rods are.  Or does it run off the refridgerant oil in the system.
Tom Rightler

John_Kunkel


The oil in the crankcase isn't confined to the compressor, it circulates throughout the system; that's why it's important to flush the entire system when changing lubricant. On a new system the sump is filled with the prescribed amount of the correct oil and the operating level takes care of itself.

Rod and rod bolt failure isn't uncommon even when the oil level is correct, the condition of the surface where the rod contacts the crank tells a lot about the lubrication since the aluminum rod rides directly on the steel crank.

Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

BlueSS454

Thanks for clearing that up  :2thumbs:.  There are going to be 3 used components in the system (the A/C compressor, the expansion valve, and evaporator core).  Everything else is new.  The evap. core has been open for quite sometime but always in dry storage.  I'm kinda crossing my fingers that it's ok.
I'm doing R134a in the system since I have a full 30 lbs jug and another jug with about 10 lbs in it.  I have plenty of Esther oil and everything else needed to do this.  How much oil is suppose to go in the compressor (I'm guessing that's the easiest place to put the oil in and maybe a little in the dryer?
Tom Rightler

Nacho-RT74

sorry that I wasn't that specific on the info... but what John said !!! :thumbs:
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

John_Kunkel


The oil capacity for a dry system is 10-11 fluid ounces, I would go with the lower number if a new drier and condensor are installed and the compressor is drained of the original oil; too much oil causes other problems.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

BlueSS454

Thanks for the info guys  :2thumbs:.  I got the AC hoses in today, just have to order a condenser and I can finish up this last little item  :yesnod:
Tom Rightler

71 Bee Man

Quote from: BlueSS454 on February 19, 2009, 11:21:44 PM
Thanks for the info guys  :2thumbs:.  I got the AC hoses in today, just have to order a condenser and I can finish up this last little item  :yesnod:

I am really glad someone else is having problems with RV2 compressors - or in my case and RV compressor (didn't have any idea there were 2 types).

I have just put oil on all the moving parts in my compressor after rebuilding it. Can't get the stuff on your skin apparently. I replaced all the bits that needed doing, crank bearing, oil pump etc.....then found the bloody pulley bearing was stuffed. $88 they are out here for a crappy little bearing. It can wait a while.

Peter
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The70RT

Before you put on any thing new be sure to flush all the componets real good. When your compressor has a catastrophic failure it sends particles throughout the system. The expansion valve is hard to get clean and you may need another one. There is expensive flush that is like 35-50 bucks a quart and your cheap flush that is like 15 a quart.
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BlueSS454

The system wasn't on my car when I bought it.  When the old compressor blew, it was just on there by itself so no harm no foul.  I got new everything except the evaporator core and the comrpessor itself.  I had a spare one in my shed that came from somewhere.  I took it apart and checked it out, everything seems in order so we shall see as soon as the condenser comes in next week.
Tom Rightler

resq302

Tom,

When I was trying to flush out the A/C system in our el camino, I remember hearing or reading somewhere that laquer thinner could be used to flush stuff out.  I used that on the condensor and seemed to be ok but we still had other issues with the system.  We had a desicant pack break open in the receiver dryer.  Still eventually want to get that system fixed in the elky but just haven't had the time although we still have plenty of R12 laying around for it.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

BlueSS454

The only thing that would have needed to be flushed was the compressor.  I had it apart and it's clean.  I have 4 lbs of R12, but I'm kinda saving that for the Chevelle.  I have 2 30 lbs bottles of R134a I'm going to use in the Charger and plenty of Esther oil to go with it.
Tom Rightler