Update on my bodywork

[jaak]

I have been working over alot, but was off today, I finally finished the mudwork on my quarters and got to spray on some polyester primer (Slicksand), on the back half of the car I was real pleased with how everything looked while the primer was wet, found a couple of dings I missed but nothing major. I am so stoked, I know this is no big deal to the pro bodymen out there, but doing this myself I took my time and was worried how it was gonna turn out....but the lines are razor sharp, I cant wait to start blocking it to get it even straighter.
Well anyways here are some pics.

Jason

[jaak]

couple of more....

[daytonalo]

Looks great !!! We stopped using Polyester primer 10 years ago , we only use Urethane surfacer .

[Charger-Bodie]

Looks great !!! We stopped using Polyester primer 10 years ago , we only use Urethane surfacer .

Care to share why you would do that?

[Charger-Bodie]

Looking good by the way!!

Slick sand is a great product!

[tan top]

some nice body work going on    looks good , keep the progress pictures coming 

[The70RT]

Nice job. Looks like you got plenty of room in your garage 

[Drop Top]

Poly primers tend to shrink up more then Urathane primers and will peal if not used properly. They will seal themselfs over after a 24hr period. A few tips on useing poly primers. If the primer sits over 24hrs after being sanded or blocked. You'll want to scuff back over it with your sand paper (a new scuff pad will work also) before spraying anything else on it. You dont want to sand too hard and mess up all that hard work you just finished, just enough to reopen the pores. This will open the pores of the primer back up so the next coat will adhere properly. Another tip, before the final blocking and after you spray your last coat, you will want to let it stand in the sun for at least a week maybe two, more in colder climets, before you do your last blocking. This will minimize any shrinkage problems.

[Charger-Bodie]

Drop Top, I think you got that backwords.....Poly surfacer is pretty much shrink free and urethane 2k primer surfacer is more apt to shrink if misused.

I have NEVER had poly surfacer shrink,ever....Ive used slick-sand, U-pol and Sikkens with AWESOME results.

[Drop Top]

Your right I could be wrong. Just going from my experance. I've used what is called Poly Prime in the past. It filled ok but not as well as the other urathane primers that I have used and same with the shrinkage. But in eather case they have all shrank to some degree within a year but not so bad that I couldn't color sand it out. Those brands arn't available in my area. The Poly Prime is very populare here but only because of cost. The rules have changed at the begining of the year and alot of the old materials are no longer available here in the valley. I'm going to ask my supplier to check and see if I can get the primers that you are useing Thank You. Witch one do you like the best?

[69 OUR/TEA]

Looks good Jason,keep up the good work!!!I use PPG's omni line MX polyester primer,works great,never had a problem with it shrinking on me.

[69*F5*SE]

Looks like some good work going on there. You going to tape the bodyline and block to it?

[Silver R/T]

Nice job, you're doing just fine

[jaak]

The reason I used poly primer is the quarters had alot of mudwork, they were solid, just dinged all up especially on the bodylines. Some guys on an autobody forum suggested I use it after the bondo stage. I Plan on doing my front fenders with poly also. The hood and decklid was very straight so I'll probably just go directly to urethane with them. After blocking the poly, I plan on using 2K urethane (probably a couple of coats). I am planning on letting each coat sit a week before blocking.

Looks like some good work going on there. You going to tape the bodyline and block to it?

Yes, infact I used it when doing my mudwork too... I think that is one of the most valuable tools (and a long block) to getting everything straight.

Nice job. Looks like you got plenty of room in your garage 

Its a 32 x 40 and the Charger is the only one in there. So I have plenty of room... I do need to do a major cleaning though!

Looks good Jason,keep up the good work!!!I use PPG's omni line MX polyester primer,works great,never had a problem with it shrinking on me.

I may have to wind up getting a quart of poly, if I do I'll give it a try. There is a PPG/Omni jobber thats on my way home from work. I had to order the slicksand online, because no one sells it locally. About how much does it cost?


Thanks everyone for the kind words and advise.
Later,
Jason

[superbirdtom]

is that slick sand like amak or feather fill primer where it uses a fiberglass clear liquid hardner??

[jaak]

is that slick sand like amak or feather fill primer where it uses a fiberglass clear liquid hardner??

Yes. Slicksand and Featherfill are both made by Evercoat, they are both poly-primers.

Jason

[superbirdtom]

I used featherfill back in 1978 when i worked in healdsburg ca at an aircraft paint shop. we used it on all the fiberglass parts on planes , then shot them with corlar epoxy primer by dupont then used Imron paint. I then got a job at Winfields customs in 1981 and got Gene to use it on a car , well that turned out to be a big mistake as he was of the lacquer world and i was of the urethane enamel world. We did a lead sled which was a ton of bondo  form end to end ,I will never forget the name on the can FILLERUP bondo. 

             Anyway back then I never realized lacquer stuck to nothing but other Lacquer products and the featherfill worked great to fill the bondo heap and blocked out nice and straight, but we then sprayed lacquer blue metallic paint on it and polished and buffed it. a month later the customer in vegas called and said the whole paint job started to peel so they razor bladed the rest of it off . man I felt like crap. If we would only have used some epoxy primer over the featherfill I believe the lacquer would have stuck. This cost gene a load of money so I left with tail between legs. I went back a while later and all was forgiven. but I never messed with lacquer again.

             One more time when lacquer was being phased out around 1984 I pained a beemer with lacquer red then the paint store Thompson lacquer. was actually telling customers that the new rm 2k urethane clear could be painter right over it like modern base clear systems. lord it was a nightmare . The guy brought the car back to my aircraft paint shop at the burbank airport and the clear was peeling off in sheets. so Ihad to razor blade and bloff all the clear and sand off all the lacquer and use some single stage delstar enamel which turned out pretty well.

                 So since then I used amak and featherfill on vettes etc but always used epoxy over that then most paints will stick to it.  but you never want to finish it off with anything coarser than 400 otherwise it gets too slick for anything to stick to it. it does fill like hell though but needs a month to shrink out all the way.