painting over rustoleum

[TK73]

OK

O rattle-canned rustoleum onto the '73 a few years back to protect it from bad weather.

Does it need to come all the way off to put a primer/sealer over it or can we scuff it real good?

[bill440rt]

1) Your paint job is only as good as what's underneath.

2) Whatever you put over the Rustoleum is only gonna stick as good as the Rustoleum does. (Think about that one for a minute).

3) Key is in preparation.

4) Did this answer your question? 

[Silver R/T]

take it all off start from the base metal and work from there.

[mopar_madman]

  Its aerosol, it will come off easy with a DA and some 80 grit, this will give a good surface for primer. I would take it down to bare metal, then hit it with a metal conditioner (like dupont 5717s) to clean and etch the surface. Then epoxy prime.

[TK73]

Thanks guys!!  Not taking it to metal, just gonna shoot something on to make it one color....

[Chatt69chgr]

Rustoleum is fabulous stuff.  It's great for outdoor machinery that is already rusted.  I've seen somone brush the scale off an old cement mixer and apply damp proof red primer with a brush to it and 7 years later sitting outside it had not rerusted.  That said, I have never had any luck painting over rustoleum with anything but rustoleum top coats.  Therefore-----------take all the rustoleum off and start from bare metal with a good acid etching primer.

[Silver R/T]

On a side note, whatever happened to you moving to Spokane? I could've helped you with bodywork/paint on your Charger.

[TK73]

Canned that, I LOVE Seattle!!

[daytonalo]

In that case , go to Home depot , buy a gallon of Rust -Olem and a roller , case closed . plese post a pic

[Silver R/T]

In that case , go to Home depot , buy a gallon of Rust -Olem and a roller , case closed . plese post a pic

lol they have rustoleum in gallon cans?

[mopar_madman]

http://horsepowersports.com/paint-your-car-with-a-roller-for-under-100/  Its been done

[chgr500]

Here's more details on roller painting your car...This Charger  is the fellow that started this huge trend..plenty of reading here

Paint job on a budget..$50

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

Hmmm...

[jaak]

You don't necessarily have to take it down to the bare metal, but you do need to get the rustoleum off. It will come off easy with a D/A, and 180 grit disc.

Jason

[plum500]

Here's a shot I just took of my front bumper.
Sico Corrostop plastic enamel, 10 coats, anywhere from 55:45 to 60:40 mineral spirits to paint mix(yes, THIN), foam brush, NO sanding before coat 8, Heat assisted drying
1500/2000 before coats 9 and 10 respectively
Hit with Meguiars#1/#2/#3/detailer (cleaner/polish-swirlmark-glaze/wax/detailer) and a $25 Sundance palm buffer - all terry cloth bonnets, detailer applied by hand with 100% cotton cloth
ICI 1594 - Windsor Purple

(the blurry pic taken with my shaky hand, doesn't quite do it justice - finish is like wet glass)

[squeakfinder]

The bumper looks nice. Have you used that stuff before? I'm just wondering how it holds up without a clear coat or catalyst.

[bill440rt]

Wow. Not bad.
Is that a paint similar to Rustoleum? Looks like it's only available in Canada? 

Has anyone ever used Ace Hardware's Rust Stop paint? Looks like it is similar to Rustoleum as well.

[plum500]

Thanks for the feedback on the bumper. I've been experimenting with this stuff for a bit - I had also been looking at Sherwin Williams industrial stuff, but settled on this partially because I could get it tinted to the exact color I wanted. Not sure how close the formula is to Tremclad/Rustoleum, but it is an alkyd, urethane silicone based DTM paint.

I figure, with what I have worked out I am going to get a finish that is at very least as good as I would if I were shooting a traditional single stage - which is what I would have gone for if getting it shot, or shooting it myself. This method is much more managable for me - I find it really workable, both going forward, and backing up - if something goes wrong. Still need lots of fresh air supply, but no isocyanates from a hardener - though, you can add a generic hardener to this stuff if you want. Though this stuff dries to a very high gloss -- if you thin it and spray it, it's like glass.

The way I figure it though, this stuff is engineered for some pretty tough applications, and just because it is engineered to work without a catalyst, doesn't mean it is going to be sub-par in the way "it" is designed to work -- especially in terms of my requirements, resources, expectations, method etc. This is not a forumla from 30 or 40 years ago.

As workable as I find it, the stuff is tough as nails, and sticks to anything. Once I was done with the polish/wax/detailing of the bumper, the best comparison I can make, is when I grip it to pick it up -- feels somewhat like it has been powder coated if that makes any sense. But again, I haven't got it on there thick either, the coats I put on were extremely translucent. Basically just wetting it each time.

As far as clear coat -- I really like a solid, high impact, single stage enamel on these cars anyway -- in particular '71 and up... so not much of a concern there... kind of the look I want. The paint has UV protectors in it, plus, I will be keeping it waxed and protected to the nth degree. Again, though, I am confident I am going to get the results I would get if I were doing a traditional shoot of a single stage enamel... in terms of my resources, situation, application etc. If in 5 years I find I want to brighten it up -- and my body work holds up, and all else is good -- I'll just scuff it back some, lay a few fresh coats, and polish her back up. Though, the plan is for a garage kept sunny evening cruiser, so I suspect it will last for years to come.

Anyhoo, sorry for the book  

[SeattleCharger]

Hey Chris, what's up.   Will be cool to see your car.   My two cents, if you paint over the rustoleum, are you going to use rustoleum?  don't know why that wouldn't work.   But just in case, at least put down some primer over the rustoleum  so your new paint will bond to that.    glad you're staying around seattle and keeping your car, but if you want to get rid of it, . . .             

[69DodgeCharger]

My buddy has painted many vehicles with rustoleum and then wet sanded and clear coated them and then wet sanded and buffed and they come out looking "mint" for under $500. And made quite a bit of money along the way doing so.

[SeattleCharger]

My buddy has painted many vehicles with rustoleum and then wet sanded and clear coated them and then wet sanded and buffed and they come out looking "mint" for under $500. And made quite a bit of money along the way doing so.

Did he use spray or roller? 

[69DodgeCharger]

My buddy has painted many vehicles with rustoleum and then wet sanded and clear coated them and then wet sanded and buffed and they come out looking "mint" for under $500. And made quite a bit of money along the way doing so.

Did he use spray or roller? 

He sprays them with a cheap cup gun.