How to strip to bare metal, step by step for new guys.

[cudaken]

 First, I am not a fan of stripping unless there is a reason. Cracked paint, peeling paint or just to much paint. Chemical strippers, well I guess they have there places just not in my garage or shop. Reason I don't like chemical stripper is two fold.

1 Never takes it all off, still have to sand off what it won't get off.

2 Chemical will eat out old body filler that is still good, and will eat up rubber and plastic as well.

That not counting the smell, waring rubber gloves (it burns) or of you miss and residue it can lift fresh primer and paint!

When I must strip I use a Buffer or grinder and a 3 M Stikit Disc Pad #05579 $36.00. Right now I am using a cheap $80.00 buffer ($300.00 was stolen), reason I prefure the buffer is I can adjust the speed of it to cut down on heat. When you get the paper hot paint melts and clogs up the paper.

[cudaken]

 Car is 41 Husk 1970 Challenger. I normal use 80 git paper on the pad when stripping. Work's well on single layer enamel and base clear. Allen said he had a cheap paint job done I think he said around 1992. Well it was a lacquer paint job

Lacquer melts real fast and will clog up the paper in 2 minutes if that. So I had to it a little driffrent.

Great care must be used if you have to do this, I used a 36 griding dics to start with. YOU MUST STAY OFF BODY LINES! With this being a Challenger the center line was a problem. As you will see I did not take all the paint off with the 36 grit, just knocked down the top layers. You will see some bare metal but 36 marks never got very deep.

Allen would have to refresh me but I think he said the Challenger was painted Red 2 times, then a heavy coat of primer then 1 to 2 Yellow Paint jobs.

Took me about 5 minutes to get to this point.

[cudaken]

 As you saw I stayed away from the center. Hit a few a small spots but no harm done.

Next I used the pad with 80 grit paper.

[cudaken]

 Took me about 10 minutes with the 80 grit paper in that last PIC.

Now TWO BIG TIPS!

1 Move the pad all the time and 1 to 2 feet sweeps.
   Heat can warp the metal if you stay in one spot to long. (does not take 1 second, more like 35)
   Will make the paper last longer, hot paint melts and clogs the paper and it not cheap.

2 Hit body filler back off. No reason to ground out a old repair that has not failued.

Next I clean up he panel with 80 grit DA. It will not hurt the bodyline un less you really work at it, and will get into spots that the 8" pad will not. I also like to get rid of as many on the swriel marks as I can.

This took about 20 minutes.

[cudaken]

 In the last PIC you can see where I left old filler. It will need new filler over the top of it, but will be easyer to repair plus you can see where the dent is.

Next I use 120 grit (41 Husk had 150 which is fine) to get rid of the 80 grit marks. High fill primer will hide the 80 grit marks, but I found this step will save a little blocking.

You will not get rid of all the marks but will about 60% of them. I did for get to take the PIC of the Right side but here is a PIC of the Left quater and right door.

Total time on the right quater was around 1 and 1/4 hours inc Cam 2 breaks.

Reason the top of the quaters where not stripped is neither 41 Husk or I know how to get the chrome off from around the top.

                                    Cuda Ken

[jaak]

Dam, Cuda Ken, if you wrote a book on mopar body-work, I'll be the first to send ya a check!!! Seriously, I have been reading you posts on blocking, stripping and all body-work related stuff. I give you props for taking the time to take photos and write post to help us "paint & body" challenged. I have (very little) body and paint experience, I took auto shop in high shool but that was 92-95, and worked in a couple of different shops after school and durring summer. But after reading you post it gets me fired up wanting to do all my body-work myself, because around here (North Alabama) it is hard to find someone who likes/wants to work on old cars and to be honest I can't afford a 5,000+ paint job now. Just keep up the great job and wanted to give you a much-deserved thanks.

Jason

[cudaken]

 Jason, glad you are learing and en joying the posting's. Hope to make it to Allens this coming Friday to get some filler and primer on the Challenger.

Will have some more up dates on the AMX later today. Need to get done to make room for the next car. Either a 68 Charger or a 71 Challenger.

I went to Votek school around 1980 or so for body work. Ran shops most of my life. I like helping poeple here on the site and get rid of some of the mysterys surrounding body work. It not that tuff if you have a clue as what you are trying to do.

                         Cuda Ken

[ipstrategies]

Cuda Ken,
As Jaak has said thank you for the great information. Your experience and attention to detail with the great pics is helping me build confidence to do some of this work myself to my 71 Charger. I have focused on the mechanicals up to this point so it is drivable and safe.  The next phase is the body work and I log in every day to get the latest tips and pics from you. I am not sure where you are located? If you were close enough I would be offering to pay $ for some training on my Charger. Email me if you are interested in a muscle car bodywork clinic? russ@71charger.com

Thanks Again.
Russ

[CB]

  great help Ken, thanks for your detailed advise. 

[cudaken]

 ipstrategies, you got mail.

CB, good luck with yours.

               Thanks Guys. Make it all worth while.

                                           Ken

[Charger_Fan]

Looks great, Ken! 
Damn, I wish I could afford to get mine going, this is definitely some inspirational stuff!

Did you use a DA with 80 grit on the door jamb? It looks really clean.

[cudaken]

 41 Husk had a lot of the paint off when I got there. I used a DA and a Jitter bug to get it a little cleaner. What is left will need to be done by hand or a hand held sand blaster.

                               Cuda Ken

[41husk]

I will get that hopefully Friday, but I still need to figure out how to get that boot molding off around the quarters?  I think I can get to it with the back door pannels removed and the back seat?

[Drop Top]

Hi Ken. Looking good.
To get the trim off is a real bear. I've restored more then a few Mopar Convertables in my time. There are some really small screws holding it on from the inside. In between the trim and the top. You can feel them if you can get your fingers between the top and the trim. Like I said not an easy task. It helps if you put the top about half way up and get some slack in the top.

Just want to add for those just starting out and not as experanced as Ken. If your striping your car this way and not removing the stainless. Put a couple layers (2 to 3) of duct tape over the stainless. This will help too keep from damaging it with the sander or buffer/grinder if you happen to get too close. If you do hit the tape. Stop and replace the tape before going on. If you go through the tape your still going to hurt the stainless. Also keep the rotation form the grinder/buffer going away from any edges not into them. This will help NOT to destroy the body lines.

[41husk]

Thanks, drop top, I think I may leave it on tape the trim and do up close by hand.  Is it any easier to do from inside with the pannels and back seat out or is the well in the way?

[AirborneSilva]

Great info Ken, the mods should make this a sticky.  I will be picking your brain WHEN I get around to starting on my Charger (that is if all goes well)... 

[cudaken]

 Allen, when or if you pick me up Friday remind me to get the S screw driver, and clean rags. The S -srew driver is shaped like a S and I think it will get to the srews.

Tony, thanks again. Hope you have some good luck as well.

                                      Ken

                           

[41husk]

Ken, if we go Friday it will be around 3pm.  I have practice in the morning and need to get supplies to finish the bathroom in the club house.  It will be the same time Saturday as practice will end at 2.  I will give you a call.

[41husk]

we got a lot done this weekend since we only actually worked about 5 hours, but we both forgott cameras.  Sorry hopefully we will have some pics in primer next week.

[BBMoparFreak]

Thanks Ken!  I'm looking at a 67 Coronet right now that is rust/dent free, and am wanting to do the paint/bodywork myself.  I'll be looking for more posts!
I'm also looking into getting the LpLBodyworks videos seen here: http://www.lplbodyworks.com/VideoSet.html .  I figure for $48 it should allow me to do the body work necessary, and possibly do a paint job as well.  The only way I'm gonna learn is to see it on video, or to try and do it myself.   

Michael

[cudaken]

 Michael, might not be a bad idea. Might also check out the AMX posting as well. Wish I knew how to post video, other wise I would.

                                                    Cuda Ken

[41husk]

I agree, I have learned alot just watching and helping as much as I can.  i try to do the crap work, areas that have to be stripped by hand, stuff Ken would rather not do, but he is a great resource.  I wish I had more time to work on it but for now a little at a time will have to do. 

[Silver R/T]

I like to use stripper on outside panels. Of course you have to take precautions and take off anything that might get damaged, trim etc. strong stripper will have no problem taking paint off, Ive done it on my Charger. I do not like using sanding on resto as it'll remove metal and make surface more uneven. Of course best way would be to media blast the whole car, but more costly

[cudaken]

 Silver R/T, there are pro and cons to everything. Strippers maybe better now than what I used but this is the reason I never use stripper again.

When I was in Votch School we where aloud to bring in are or other peoples car to work on. I was supporting the family by working on people cars at school. I was doing a 67 GTO and had to be stripped. Asked the owner if the GTO had ever been wrecked (bought new) and said no. All was going good till I hit the right quarter, it was soild filler from the door to the tail lights! Stripper ate the sh-t out of it. Took me 15 hours to fix the mess! If I had done it like 41 Husk, I could have backed off and saved a lot on un needed work and that = $ in a shop.

When I call the owner and told him about all the filler and that he said it had never been wrecked? He told me "it was never wrecked, that where my son ran into with a motorcycle". Sounds like a wreck to ME

                                Cuda Ken

[Silver R/T]

Silver R/T, there are pro and cons to everything. Strippers maybe better now than what I used but this is the reason I never use stripper again.

When I was in Votch School we where aloud to bring in are or other peoples car to work on. I was supporting the family by working on people cars at school. I was doing a 67 GTO and had to be stripped. Asked the owner if the GTO had ever been wrecked (bought new) and said no. All was going good till I hit the right quarter, it was soild filler from the door to the tail lights! Stripper ate the sh-t out of it. Took me 15 hours to fix the mess! If I had done it like 41 Husk, I could have backed off and saved a lot on un needed work and that = $ in a shop.

When I call the owner and told him about all the filler and that he said it had never been wrecked? He told me "it was never wrecked, that where my son ran into with a motorcycle". Sounds like a wreck to ME

Cuda Ken

well looks like different people have different perception of "being wrecked"
as far as stripper ya... I wouldnt want to use it over panels where there's filler, but on my charger I like to remove all old bondo anyways and redo bondo work if its needed or replace whole panel, depending how bad its damaged. My left quarter is ALL bondo so its getting cut out

[41husk]

I think as soon as I get it in primer I will get the exhaust on and get her running, before finishing paint and body

[41husk]

she is now 1/2 in primmer and gettin closer every day

[41husk]

My patch pannels are here hopefully Ken can give a class on installing them, and we will have some more pictures to post.

[41husk]

she is 95% in primer

[cudaken]

 Have you made it to the Mopad yet Allen? Leve any baite? Inside joke. I will call you Tuesday. Screw the Pool Table, think BIG HO TRACK.

                                           Ken

[41husk]

I will get over there tomorow and bait the trap!!!  I am still leaning towards pool table.

[cudaken]

 There is room for both. Just need to move some beer can. Find the door bolts and will have it in primer this week.

Hum, then what do we do on the weekend?

                               Ken

[AirborneSilva]

There is room for both. Just need to move some beer can. Find the door bolts and will have it in primer this week.

Hum, then what do we do on the weekend?

                                              Ken

My vote is for the HO slot car track 

[41husk]

Then we move the AMX, 69 Charger or Miss lumpy to the Mopad and mess with them,  or we could just sit around and drink the bait   That is a big enough room to get both in,  I was planning on taking that parts shelf to the basement as soon as the rehab was done.