1968 Charger parts

moparnole · January 30, 2009, 07:09:44 PM

Hi, Im in the process of trading my 1989 Supra for a 1968 Charger project.Since I'm only in high school, money is somewhat of a problem for me, but I do have some(saved up Christmas money!!) the car itself needs frame rails, floorpans, and a new motor(it has a 440 in it now that has not run since the late 80's) also for some reason the wheels are locked up( possible brake issues?) anyway if anybody has any advice, or parts that they need to get rid of, please by all means send me some information, it would be greatly appreciated, when I get the car , and start work on it I will upload some pics.also, any recommendations as far as suspension?

Mean 318 · January 30, 2009, 07:13:02 PM

Hey welcome! I got my 70 when I was 15! No worries, it takes time but b4 you know it you will be goin down the road! Get some pics up!
As far as the rear wheels, prbly the brakes, but check the dif fluid just in case!

Steve P. · January 30, 2009, 07:31:32 PM

Welcome to the site. You have come to the home of incredible knowledge and just plain great people all around.

I would say to have someone qualified take a look at the Charger before you make the trade. It sounds like you have a running car now that you are trading out of and moving into a project that will be huge. In most cases where the frame rails are rotted there will be MUCH, MUCH more that you are not even looking at yet. This is a tough job at any age, but for someone fresh in the hobby it will be enormous. I'm not trying to scare you off, just giving you fair warning. This is a big job on any car, but parts for this car are NOT cheap.. Also getting anyone to come off parts they have been hording is tougher than pulling teeth out of a live snake.

Good luck and again, welcome...

dpm68 · January 30, 2009, 07:37:20 PM

I looove Supras! Post pics of it too. Is it red or white?

rav440 · January 30, 2009, 07:51:29 PM

post lots of pics .

moparnole · January 30, 2009, 08:58:42 PM

Thanks for the warm welcome, and advice, here is a VIDEO of the Supra...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZP9Fby2b8_A&feature=channel_page

enjoy

500hp_440 · January 30, 2009, 10:38:40 PM

Welcome to the site!

I'm 16 and I have a 69 440 charger. There ALOT more work and money then you could imagine if you new to this. Just make sure to tear it down all the way, don't cut corners and do it all right the first time! (especially the stuff that welded and hard to get/important) Not to rip on you but, very nice upgrade!

Since the brakes are locked one of your first projects could be to rebuild the axle, since it has to come off any ways and there easy.
Also this is the #1 in my opion place to get info and advice again welcome and congrats!

68pplcharger · January 31, 2009, 03:56:22 PM

You are very fortunate... I could not even touch a charger when I was sixteen. Good luck with the build

500hp_440 · January 31, 2009, 04:18:21 PM

Quote from: 68pplcharger on January 31, 2009, 03:56:22 PM
You are very fortunate... I could not even touch a charger when I was sixteen. Good luck with the build

Thanks you too, it took 3 years to find and my life savings + some luck

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 04:22:32 PM

Welcome aboard man!

I'm 14, and dreaming of a Charger Daytona clone.

The guys on this board will point you in the right direction, and there is knowledge about every part of that car by someone on here.

Check out autometaldirect.com for all you metal needs. Also, a member on here named Shakey has some extremely detailed restoration and reassembly threads. Used the advanced search to find his posts.

Good luck man, and I hope you hang around on here.

We need more young gun members.

Suspension depends on what you plan on doing with the car, what engine it originally had, and how you are going to treat the car.
Good suspension sources:
manciniracing.com is a great place for pretty much anything you need.
xvmotorsports.com for the more handling oriented builds (Pro-Touring)

Some general mods most guys do include reinforced lower control arms (mancini) and subframe connectors (mancini). Tubular upper control arms are also common. Deeper pocketed guys also hit up XV for a stronger lower rad support and their inner fender supports. They also have a stronger type of subframe connector, but it is harder to install.
Rear stuff could just be a set of extra heavy duty or super stock springs from Mancini, who also has all hardware to mount them.

Also, you really need to post some pics of your Fender Tag so the guys can decode it.

If you ever need any help with anything, pm me and I will be glad to help.
Wing

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 04:40:50 PM

Here is a good list of stuff to look over from Dans 68:

History of Vehicle
Get as much history and paper work on the car that you can from the guy.
Where did he get it (geographical location)/who did he buy it from?
Any known previous owners?
What has he done with it since he got it?
Where and how was it stored?
Has it ever been wrecked?
What work has he done on it?
Pictures when he got it.
Any pictures prior to or during restoration.
Did anyone else do work on it?
If so, check with them to see what they did and what condition the car was in. Get any documents, receipts, invoices of his expenses.
How much did he pay for it?

Throughout the entire process of looking over the car – always be looking for signs of the number one problem with cars this age – RUST!

Body & Paint

Walk completely around the car and look at/for the following things:

Hood
Does the hood line up and lay level with the fenders, front cowl and grill.
Lift the hood to see if it comes up evenly and doesn't bind on the hinges. Lower the hood and see if it comes back down in alignment.

Trunk
Does the trunk lid line up and lay flat with the rear quarters, rear deck and tail panel? Open and close the trunk to see if it latches properly.
Pull back the trunk liner to check the condition of the trunk floor pan. Are the drip holes plugged, are the seams all properly welded. Look closely where the rear wheel wells meet the trunk floor. This is a notorious place for rust and metal decay.
If you feel inclined, from the inside of the trunk look upward to the bottom of the rear window. Any rust or decay is an indication that the window well is bad or the window seal is leaking. That will also show up if there is any indication that water is dripping down onto the tops of the rear wheel wells inside the trunk.
Check both the front and rear valances for dents, etc.

The front grill/clip is primarily made of plastic. Check closely for cracks or missing chunks that could have been broken off.

Open each door to see if it swings straight out and closes easily. If it sags when opened and doesn't close easily, the door hinges are bad. The doors should close easily – there is no need to slam them.

Stand back on each side of the car so you can see the entire car from front to rear. Look for the body line that runs from the front to the rear. It starts at the front side marker on the fender and runs in a straight line along the fender across the door and along the rear quarter to the back side marker. Then go to the rear of the car and look down the body line at eye level to see if the rear quarter panel, door and front fender are aligned. If the line isn't distinct or straight, it is an indication that there has been body work on the fender, door or rear quarter.

Check all chrome i.e. window trim, door handles, bumpers, gas cap, drip rails, grill trim, tail panel trim, wheel well trim, etc. for pits, dimples, bends or dings.

Check the vinyl top to see if the overlap lines are straight and symmetrical.
Look for bubbles or tears in the top.
Feel around the top for the roof weld seams to see if they are flat. The rear seams run diagonally down from just below the top of the back window to just above the bottom of the rear side windows. The front seams are just below the top on the front door posts. If they bulge or are indented, there could be problems under the vinyl top.

Paint
Not only can paint hide a lot of things; it can also tell you a lot about the condition of the underlying metal.
Check for overspray, especially inside the engine bay, trunk and undercarriage. That will be an indication of how professional the paint job is; although, there was a lot of overspray and missed spots in those locations on original paint jobs from the factory.
Look for drips, runs, cracks, chips, scratches, dings and orange peel. Dark spots in the paint are an indication that water dripped on the paint when it was sprayed.
Examine all seams closely for scaling, bubbles or peeling of the paint – this is an indication of underlying rust. Critical areas would be around the sail panels, along the bottom of the back window, around the wheel wells, bottoms of the fenders and quarter panels, along the bottom of the rocker panels, etc.

Interior
Check the top dash pad for cracks and tears.
Check to see if the doors lock from both inside and using the key from the outside.
Crank the windows up and down to see if they slide smoothly. All windows, especially the rear side windows should go down below the window trim.
Open and close the front wing windows. They should move easily and close tightly against the rubber.
If there is a remote lever for driver's side rear view mirror, move it around to see if the mirror moves.
Slide both bucket seats back and forth to make sure they glide smoothly.
Lift both bucket seat backs to make sure they fall forward evenly.
The head rest should move up and down.
The front seat belt portion on the door side of the seats should pull up to about the middle of your waist and retract (they are the only belts that retract). The portion on the console side does not retract but comes across and adjusts to fit. The back seat belts lay flat on the seat. Fasten the belts to see if they clasp and unlock.
Check the head liner to make sure it is tight all around.
The sun visors should swivel back and forth and up and down.
A critical place to check is the bottom of the rear window around the package tray for water leaks and rust on the inside window trim.
The console tray door should lift up easily and lock in the closed position.
The door panels look pretty good in the photos.
Turn the steering wheel back and forth to see if there is any play in it. If there is a lot of play, there could be a problem in the steering box.

Undercarriage
Go dressed to get down, underneath and dirty.
Jack the car up and examine the undercarriage.
Use a small hammer, if the owner will let you, to tap around to check for rust (just tap – you don't need to hammer on things)
Tap the frame rails to make sure they are solid.
You probably won't be able to lift the carpet from the inside to check the floor pans but you can check them from underneath. Tap them.
Tap the exhaust system from front to rear, including the mufflers. You can also wear a pair of gloves and run your hand along the length of them. Examine the mufflers for rust around the seams (indication that they are leaking). Pay particular attention to the pipes from the mufflers back. They go up over the top of the real axle (if stock) and can rust out on top. Make sure the tail pipe tips are welded on.
Make sure the rear springs are tight and properly attached.
Check the shocks, front and back for leaks. Rock the car front and back to see if the shocks stabilize within one bounce.
Make sure all drive train bolts are present and accounted for.
Try to see if the motor mounts are solid and the rubber is in good shape.
Look for leaks and dents around the gas tank.

To be continued...

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 04:43:08 PM

...continued:

Front End
While you have the front end jacked up, grasp the tire front and back and move it side to side to see if there is any play in it. If there is movement, could be a sign of wear in the steering linkage or front bearings.
Check the ball joints for wear. There should have signs of grease around the grease fittings and joints indicating proper lubrication.
The sway bar should be tight – looks like the guy replaced it.
Make sure the torsion bars are tight in the frame in the back and tight up front in the lower control arm.
Check the front tires to see how they are wearing. Could reveal a need for an alignment or replace shocks.
Check the steering linkage to make sure it is tight. Look for wear on the tie rods.
If possible, pull off a front tire to check the brake pad wear and rotors.
Look for signs of oil and coolant leaks underneath.
When driving – take hands off the steering wheel and see if it goes straight down the road. Drifting to one side or the other is an indication of a need for a front end alignment.

Engine Bay
Look for signs of oil and/or coolant leaks.
The hood has a pad on the underside. Look for stains on it.

Drive line – rear-end, engine, transmission

Rear-end
There should be a tag bolted on the side of the rear end with the gear ratio noted.
Check for oil leaks around the pumpkin.
The 440, if the car was equipped with one when new, probably has either the 8 -3/4 or 9-1/4 rear end. The 8-3/4 is identified by having a drop out "chuck" on the front and a solid back. No plate to unbolt.
Check around the inside of the rear rims for leaks coming from the axle – sign of bad seals.
Jack rear end up and rotate tires back and forth to detect any play in the rear end.
While driving, listen for grinding, whining, clanking, etc. – indications of bad bearings or worn gears in differential.

Engine
Now is the time to start the engine. Start it when it is cold. Feel the valve covers, exhaust manifolds, radiator or heads/block to make sure it is cold.
Listen to how it sounds when it starts.
Does the carburetor kick down when it is warmed up?
Does it idle smoothly – depending upon cam?
Listen for tappet/lifter noises
Listen for exhaust leaks around the exhaust manifolds.
Have someone check the exhaust when first started. Blue smoke – oil burn; black smoke – mixture too rich

Transmission (manual)-You didn't mention which your car has.

The transmission should be an A-833, small drive pinion with 23 splines.
While driving, listen for whining, clanking or grinding in the transmission.
Shift into reverse and drive backwards for a short distance.
Shift through all gears from 1st to 4th moving forward. Then slow down and down-shift through all gears from 4th to 1st. The transmission is more likely to come out of gear while downshifting.

Electrical and vacuum

With engine running, now check the electrical system.
Lights
Check to see if all light are working:
Dash and gauge lights – roll dimmer switch up and down on dash
Console lights on each side of console
Overhead light
Turn signals
Check to see if the hood mounted signal lights are working . Parking lights in front valance
Side marker lights both front and rear on both sides
Tail lights
Brake lights
Put in car in reverse and see if reverse lights work – clear plastic light cover above and between the two tail lights on each side.
Turn on the headlights and see if the vacuum system is working to open and close the covers.
With covers open, check low and high beams. There are two headlights on each side – low beam is one and both are on for high beams.

The headlight cover doors in the grill are the best indicators to see if the vacuum system is working. If they don't come up or close properly there is a problem. They both should open and shut simultaneously. Could be a leaky hose or the canister is not holding pressure. The vacuum canister is located under the battery tray.

Turn on windshield wipers to see if they work. Also, check to see if the windshield washers work.

Check to see if the radio works.
All speakers should work. Turn up volume to check for broken speaker diaphragms - rattles and/or vibration.

Check to see if the heater works. If the heater squeals, there could be a problem with the fan.

Wing (Thanks Dans 68!)

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 05:46:22 PM

......wow, you said a mouthfull!!!!!!!

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 05:47:08 PM

Thank you.

Anything I can do to help!

I can go on for days with stuff if you want.

Firm Feel Inc. is also a great resource for steering and certain suspension components.

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 05:56:37 PM

I'll test you, how can you convert a Charger to nuclear power?

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 05:57:35 PM

Quote from: moparnole on January 31, 2009, 05:56:37 PM
I'll test you, how can you convert a Charger to nuclear power?

Ford tried that in 1958. Too dangerous.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Nucleon

On a slightly different note, my dad works at a power plant that was going to be nuclear, but was converted to coal before it started up. The first on earth to do so!

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 06:04:27 PM

Could you help me on my homework too?!?!?!?!?!?!!?

ALso, how do you put pictures on this site?

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 06:05:52 PM

Quote from: moparnole on January 31, 2009, 06:04:27 PM
Could you help me on my homework too?!?!?!?!?!?!!?

ALso, how do you put pictures on this site?

A good idea is to save them into a internet photohosting website. photobucket.com is a great place, and is what I use.

Save them to there from your computer pics, then use the last url "IMG Code" the pictures can have, and there you go!

Here is an example:
Hit the quote button to see it.

"No, that is not my car. I wish it was though

"

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 06:17:11 PM

Like so?

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 06:19:05 PM

Absolutely!

Now, if your computer crashes, those will still be there and be backed up!

You can also add any pictures you find on photobucket to your account by clicking "add to my account."
Your car looks good man!

So, what is your plan with it? Street Car, Street/Strip, Pro-Touring, Strip Only, Daily Driver, or What? I can give you more info if I know what you wanted to do!

We need a Fender Tag picture!

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 06:29:24 PM

Well if Im trading my Supra for it, it would have to be a daily driver. It was originally a 383 car, but now has a 1969 440 sitting in there that has not run since the late 80's. Ultimatly I would like to take one of the NEW 6.1 liter HEMIS and let her rest in there. The car itself sat in a field in Meeeeeechigan for 20 odd years, ( looks good for going through that) and the guy needs to get rid of it. Already it seems like it wouldnt be a bad Idea to replace everything under it ( I live in North Florida, so the frames of cars around here arent usually rusted up, the car is in Baltimore), as well as the floorpans. To finish it I would like to have it painted Charger Red, with a black vinal top, and black interior.( It has a White pimpin interior in it now.)

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 06:32:27 PM

It will take a ton of work to get a classic Charger up to par as a daily driver. It will have problems, realize that. I guess being in Florida means you won't have to worry about cold starting with a carb, but you better at least have a 26in. radiator.

Yes, if a daily driver is your angle, almost everything should be replaced, or refinished. Okay, so it was a original 383, now wearing a locked 440. So, is it a Manual or Automatic. What options can you tell outright that the car has?

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 06:32:58 PM

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/i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt60/moparnole/chargerbackend.jpg[/IMG]

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 06:34:40 PM

Column Shifted Automatic, pretty nice.

Standard steering wheel. Can't see if you have a tic-toc-tach or not.

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 06:36:15 PM

It's an automatic, can you think of any modern chassis that would fit under a gen. 2 charger?
As far options, i'm not sure, but I'm not entirely sure that the white interior came standard?

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 06:37:42 PM

you mean THIS tic-toc tach?

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 06:38:21 PM

Quote from: moparnole on January 31, 2009, 06:36:15 PM
It's an automatic, can you think of any modern chassis that would fit under a gen. 2 charger?
As far options, i'm not sure, but I'm not entirely sure that the white interior came standard?

No. Chargers are unibody, which means the car has no removable frame. They are welded to the body as "subframes." The suspension is bolted to those.
What makes you think your car isn't a original white interior?

YEAH!! Tic-Toc-Tach!!!

Troy · January 31, 2009, 06:38:33 PM

That's got a rear defroster too.

Troy

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 06:42:57 PM

I mean that it came standard on Chargers.....

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 06:44:04 PM

Quote from: moparnole on January 31, 2009, 06:42:57 PM
I mean that it came standard on Chargers.....

You could choose White, Red, Green, Saddle Tan, Black, and Grey with fabric inserts. Did your car have a original vinyl roof?
How about some engine pics?

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 06:49:48 PM

the sleeping beast, which inside probably beats a heart .....of pure arthritus

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 06:51:51 PM

Quote from: moparnole on January 31, 2009, 06:49:48 PM

the sleeping beast, which inside probably beats a heart .....of pure arthritus

I see a 22in. Radiator, and that you have manual four wheel drum brakes. No power steering, and TWO COILS??

Also, your car wasn't originally equipped with A/C.

Since your car originally had a 383, you probably have a 8-1/4in. or 8-3/4 rear end. Here is a id guide. You need to figure out which one you have.

Is the 440 locked, or does it turn, or whats up with it? Also, are the rear brakes locked or the front?

Based on the condition of that 440, it might be a better idea to go for a 5.7L new HEMI...

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 07:01:14 PM

More than likely the 440 is indeed locked up, I dont know yet what rear end is under it, but i am getting some underneath pics of it either tonight or tommorow(maybe shouldnt have said that) ...or next week

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 07:03:33 PM

The brakes are locked up, I know they are locked up in the back, the front...I'm not sure, could be something else if not the brakes. But still, it seems good shape for sitting in a field for 20 years...

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 07:05:48 PM

Quote from: moparnole on January 31, 2009, 07:01:14 PM
More than likely the 440 is indeed locked up, I dont know yet what rear end is under it, but i am getting some underneath pics of it either tonight or tommorow(maybe shouldnt have said that) ...or next week

Most guys will swear by the 8-3/4. The drop out chuck makes them easy to work on. If your car is going to be a daily driver, and you keep the 440, don't forget that a 440 is a big block! Your gas prices will go through the roof. If you keep it, you need a 26in. radiator, or you might overheat. You can find them for sale used on boards like this. Also, whatever the rear end is, a 2.76 open gear set will help you with gas mileage.

I think your car will have a 727 auto transmission, which is a great setup. It will need to be rebuilt, as will the rear end. If you want to free that engine up, there is a thread I will post a link to about people giving their best ways.

The engine being locked up could lock the car. Is the tranny in neutral?

Update:
Here is the freeing a stuck engine info:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52566.0.html

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 07:12:20 PM

......................It MAY, or MAY NOT be in neutral, but I do plan on doing something else with the 440 and tranny (727, yes) possibly trade , or sell for parts, because as you mentioned, a 440 isnt exactly a Prius, but one of the new Hemis should set me up with decent mileage, instead of non existent with the 440.

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 07:16:47 PM

Quote from: moparnole on January 31, 2009, 07:12:20 PM
......................It MAY, or MAY NOT be in neutral, but I do plan on doing something else with the 440 and tranny (727, yes) possibly trade , or sell for parts, because as you mentioned, a 440 isnt exactly a Prius, but one of the new Hemis should set me up with decent mileage, instead of non existent with the 440.

5.7L engines are nice in older cars. xvmotorsports makes a lot of parts to install them, including a adapter to mount a 5.7L to a 727. However, if you install a 5.7, you will need to convert your car to a floor shift auto, because the column linkage won't clear the 5.7. A couple of members here have installed these engines, and i'm sure you could get help from any of them. In fact, down in the clasifieds, somebody posted a 5.7L out of a 300 for sale in Pittsburgh.

You could probably find one at a junkyard also.

TTI makes headers and motor mounts for the install.
I think guys use a Viper fan and shroud for cooling. You need several parts from mopar. Also, if you want the engine or mileage, keep the injection. Don't convert it to carburetor.

That passenger fender looks a little rough...

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 07:34:01 PM

Yea, may need to replace that fender........, or put a decorative pillow over it...no one will know

WingCharger · January 31, 2009, 07:38:51 PM

Quote from: moparnole on January 31, 2009, 07:34:01 PM
Yea, may need to replace that fender........, or put a decorative pillow over it...no one will know

Got to go out for dinner. Will post more when I get back.

Auto Metal Direct is your friend for metal body parts and glass.
Mancini Racing for suspension rebuild pieces and necessary chassis stiffening. (Most Guys Say Subframe Connectors Are GREAT!)
XV Motorsport's for 5.7 swap parts and other chassis stiffening.
Firm Feel Inc. for steering parts and a K-Frame strengthening service.
Just Dash's for dash restoration.
Redline Gauge Works for gauge restoration. (Autometer internals is a option to be installed in your gauges when they restore them.)
Legendary Auto Interiors for interior parts.

Got to go.

Daytona R/T SE · January 31, 2009, 08:00:48 PM

That Charger is five years and $50,000 away from moving under it's own power. That's if you can do a huge amount of the work yourself. Do you have that kind of scratch? Do you have something else to drive in the mean time? Do you really think that when it's done you are actually going to drive a 45 year old car every day? Seriously, would you even want to? The front end of that thing has dropped down. Does it have a broken torsion bar? More than likely the torsion bar cross member has rusted out from sitting in the field for 20 years, I'm sure the rest of the car is pretty rusty too...front and rear frame rails, floor pans, rockers, trunk floor, fenders, quarters, etc.etc.etc. It's going to need it all...

What you want to do is possible, but you need one of two things to pull it off-

1. A butt-load of cash

2. Huge amount of knowledge,tools, workspace and experience to fix it yourself, and you STILL need the butt-load of cash...(Ok that last one is five things, but you get the picture)

From the looks of the car, I'd say walk-no RUN away fast as you can...

Troy · January 31, 2009, 08:18:43 PM

Ok, guys, this is becoming a private conversation and not all of the information Wing is giving out isn't exactly the best. You can't exactly put a modern "chassis" under that car and trying to do so will be cost prohibitive. Work with what you've got - it has a lot of strong points.

Overall, interior colors for a 68 are:
Gray, Light Blue, White & Blue, White & Green, White & Gold, Green, White & Tan, Tan, Gold & Black, Turquoise, Red, Silver & Black, White & Red, White & Black, Black, and Gold
I don't know that Chargers came in every one of those combinations but they were available. That car appears to have a white interior (although the dash pads look green?).

You can build two 440s for what it costs to retrofit a 5.7 Hemi - especially if you already have a 440. You can also pick up 383s for cheap and it will bolt right in where the 440 was. If you really want a 5.7 I have one that I will sell and I've done a lot of research on the swap. You better have a fat wallet. The XV stuff does away with the EFI and uses a carb. My 440 gets about 10 mpg. However, it would take me about 5 years to offset the cost difference between it and a Hemi. A member here dropped a 5.9 Magnum and overdrive trans in his Cuda and gets 26 mpg for less than half of a Hemi conversion. My 318 cars average 20+ mpg and many people get 18-22+ with a 383 so, again, keep all your options open.

The standard radiator for a 440 car without A/C was a 22" (my R/T has one if you'd like to see). Swapping to a 26" is a bigger deal than adding another row to a 22" radiator (the hole in the radiator support is too small) - but doing it like the factory will work too.

If the car was a 383 originally it should have had an 8 3/4 rear. Most likely it also had 2.76 or 3.23 gears (depending on 2 or 4 barrel carburetor).

There's lots of great info here and many people willing to help. Most will tell you that this isn't a "cheap" endeavor though. I drove a 68 Charger all the way through high school so it can be done.

Troy

69charger2002 · January 31, 2009, 08:24:24 PM

those frame rails are DEFINITELY shot at least in front, so make sure you realize how much is involved there when trading(i still think it's worth trading for an 89 supra), just know that even with a fresh motor/tranny and brakes, interior etc. that car still may be far from SAFELY roadworthy.
good luck with your project if you trade!

trav

Troy · January 31, 2009, 08:36:26 PM

After looking at the pictures...

that's a major project! In addition to what else has been said, there's a baseball size hole in the *top* of the fender. I bet everything under it is wasted too. Still, the parts on that car are worth more than an 89 Supra so maybe use what's left to build another (hopefully one that's more solid). I agree, there's no way that thing will be a "driver" any time soon and if you're going to have to scrape up pennies to even get it you're heading for disappointment. I hate to say that but it's very easy to get discouraged on these cars and sooner or later you're just going to want something to drive.

Troy

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 08:52:54 PM

Thanks for the info, as for something to drive, we have a 1979 ford Ranger, that my Grandma is always saying "That thing needs driving!!!" so its looking like she may get her wish.
Do you think that selling off the 440 and tranny would be a semi-good idea, so the inards of the car could get worked on? (I have a 360 and tranny we used to run at the local irt track before it shut down, but its not like it would be going anywhere anyway)

Troy · January 31, 2009, 09:07:55 PM

A locked up 440 and trans won't get you much (maybe enough for one front fender). The 360 would be ok but is it a race engine?

Troy

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 09:13:22 PM

It was a race engine, used in pure stock, but you know racers.... its not stock. I cant remember us using it all that much, because we wond up switching motors.

Troy · January 31, 2009, 09:21:03 PM

Tough to say - although I'd say the least of your worries at this point is the drivetrain.

By the way, if you don't mind, can you get the VIN and fender tag (in the engine compartment on the driver's side inner fender) information for the Registry? I'd love to see how it was optioned. Thanks.

Troy

moparnole · January 31, 2009, 09:30:31 PM

I am getting pics of the fender tag, underneath (joy) and the floorpans, hopefully tomorow.
Also, just throwing this out there, would it be plausible to put suspension from a Viper under it, just a thought....

Troy · January 31, 2009, 09:56:23 PM

Quote from: moparnole on January 31, 2009, 09:30:31 PM
I am getting pics of the fender tag, underneath (joy) and the floorpans, hopefully tomorow.
Also, just throwing this out there, would it be plausible to put suspension from a Viper under it, just a thought....

With enough money, you can do anything. The Viper has an IRS out back so there's a challenge already. The Viper is also a lot lighter so you'll have to do a bunch of math to get the spring rates where they need to be. An degree in engineering wouldn't hurt (for the knowledge or the cash). I do believe I've seen someone do it though (maybe it was a Challenger?).

Troy

moparnole · February 01, 2009, 01:52:55 PM

What would you recommend as far as suspension goes?

Troy · February 01, 2009, 02:08:06 PM

Quote from: moparnole on February 01, 2009, 01:52:55 PM
What would you recommend as far as suspension goes?

Do you want a daily driver or a race car? The factory suspension works well with only a few tweaks. Look around the site for NYCMille's car (Mr Angry). It was in the Bull Run TV show and there are also multiple videos of it on various tracks. When most of those videos were shot it was running a mostly stock suspension with better sway bars and shocks. For upgraded/beefier components look to Firm Feel (links posted earlier). I think a complete setup will run right around $2,500 with a faster steering box. If you want to go all out check the XV Motorsports link posted previously but, again, you better have $$$. With any stiffer suspension you'll want to reinforce the unibody of the car. Check the tech section for examples. Don't forget brakes - there's a whole range depending on what you want the car to be capable of.

Troy

moparnole · February 01, 2009, 02:10:37 PM

Thanks for the input, I wonder if anybody ever has forgotten about the brakes.......

Troy · February 01, 2009, 02:25:15 PM

Quote from: moparnole on February 01, 2009, 02:10:37 PM
Thanks for the input, I wonder if anybody ever has forgotten about the brakes.......

More than you can imagine. Base model cars had 10" drum brakes but even the R/Ts only had 11" drums. These cars with a big block are nearly 4,000 pounds and modern cars (the traffic around and in front of you) can stop a whole lot faster. It's easy to focus on an engine swap for more power (and to go faster) and brakes/suspension are, unfortunately, an afterthought. There's a very good Mopar Action (magazine) article on swapping to later model disc brakes. It's cheap insurance.
http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html

Troy

moparnole · February 01, 2009, 04:03:10 PM

Thanks, that was a good read.

moparnole · February 02, 2009, 05:24:25 PM

Where would you guys recommend I get parts for suspension wise, Mancini, or XV?

WingCharger · February 02, 2009, 05:33:53 PM

Quote from: moparnole on February 02, 2009, 05:24:25 PM
Where would you guys recommend I get parts for suspension wise, Mancini, or XV?

Mancini makes a lot of resto parts. XV like Troy said, is for deeper pockets and for more Pro-Touring style builds.

Finn · February 02, 2009, 05:50:10 PM

Hmm. If you could pick it up for cheap and keep the supra I think that would be a better option than an out ride trade.

moparnole · February 02, 2009, 06:58:10 PM

Well, right now I have not started my job yet, so paying for the charger would be a little much right now.

moparnole · February 03, 2009, 06:05:44 PM

What about floorpans, where would be the cheapest place to pick that up?

500hp_440 · February 06, 2009, 07:18:21 PM

Quote from: moparnole on February 03, 2009, 06:05:44 PM
What about floorpans, where would be the cheapest place to pick that up?

Cut down the old "road work ahead" signs that they never take to the next job and pound them to shape,:D or is that just a "Jeep Thang"?

moparnole · February 06, 2009, 07:52:41 PM

..COuld just be a Jeep deal......(always wondered why older Jeeps always had orange bottoms....)

moparnole · February 07, 2009, 01:54:18 PM

pic of charger

moparnole · February 07, 2009, 01:55:56 PM

Side

moparnole · February 07, 2009, 01:56:44 PM

Decklid

WingCharger · February 07, 2009, 02:15:54 PM

You have a nice Charger man.

Wish I had one.

Finn · February 07, 2009, 03:49:40 PM

So did you get it then?
Also, do you have any shots of the frame rails?

moparnole · February 07, 2009, 04:32:27 PM

No, I have nt gotten it yet, and those pics of the frail and fender tag I said were coming, I havent recieved those yet either.I am trying to find one a little bit closer to home and in better condition, but this one is still there.

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