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synthetic oil

Started by flyinlow, January 30, 2009, 08:45:45 AM

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flyinlow

I have read a couple of post about synthetic oil not working well with addatives.

IF  I used 10w-40 synthetic with comp cam break in addative will that protect my cam?

firefighter3931

Unless your synthetic lube has an EP additive package you must add some sort of protection. Some oil companies claim that their synthetic formulations have enough EP goodies in them and recommend not adding any. Royal Purple Racing and Amsoil are two that come to and and are excellent choices.

I just run dino oil (VR1-20/50) with EOS and change it often enough to be safe.  ;)



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Challenger340

Why would you use an additive with the Synthetic Oil ?  Are you breaking in a new Cam ?

On a NEW Engine,
"Break-in", requires regular "Dinosauer Oil", with an additive, to allow both the many Engine Parts, & Camshaft/Lifters, to "wear in" and establish a wear pattern between parts mating to each other.
After the break-in period, THEN, switch to a Synthetic Oil if you so desire.

IMO
DO NOT "break-in" a "new" Engine on Synthetic Oil, the stuff is waaayy too slippery to promote good ring seating, etc. on a fresh build.

Bob out.
Only wimps wear Bowties !

flyinlow

Engine is broken in with 4000 miles on it using retell 15w-40 + comp cam break in additive.

Wanted to go to a 10w-40 and enjoy the advantages of synthetic oil. Also I am switching back to 971 pan  from a 7qt pan and will not have as much oil inthe engine,so I thought the higher heat capabilatys of a good synthetic will help.

Does all amsoil synthetic have enough zinc?

John_Kunkel

Quote from: Challenger340 on January 30, 2009, 10:21:39 AM

IMO
DO NOT "break-in" a "new" Engine on Synthetic Oil, the stuff is waaayy too slippery to promote good ring seating, etc. on a fresh build.

What about Vipers, Vettes and others that come from the factory with synthetic? My Viper was broken in with Mobil 1 and hasn't used a drop in over 30K miles.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Runner

Quote from: firefighter3931 on January 30, 2009, 10:13:03 AM
Unless your synthetic lube has an EP additive package you must add some sort of protection. Some oil companies claim that their synthetic formulations have enough EP goodies in them and recommend not adding any. Royal Purple Racing and Amsoil are two that come to and and are excellent choices.

I just run dino oil (VR1-20/50) with EOS and change it often enough to be safe.  ;)



Ron

 ron, im about as confused about what oil to run as i possibly can be.    ive been running vr1 with eos,  but ive recently read that the eos  doesnt have near the zinc in it that it once did.   now there is zddp plus, and that looks good. but i dont know if it is a good product or not. ive tryed to filter though all the junk on bob the oil guys sight and that confuses me even more, plus i dont know whos full of shit on the sight and whos not.    also from what ive read, the tearm "synthetic" is being used very loosly now days.     i really wish someone would come out with a good oil that is definalty flat tappet friendly with no additive required and market it as "muscle car oil" plus list the zddp package on the label.   ive read that brad penn is good stuff as well, but there again i just dont know.  


 im so confused about the state of oil now that ive decided to just run holy water in the crankcase, and only holy water that has been bleassed by the pope himself

71 roadrunner 452 e heads  11.35@119 mph owned sence 1984
72 panther pink satellite sebring plus 383 727
68 satellite 383 4 speed  13.80 @ 102 mph  my daily driver
69 superbee clone 440    daughters car
72 dodge dart swinger slant six

flyinlow

I guess a good 10w-40 like Mobil 1 and comp cams additive will be be my answer for now. The breakin additive says its compatable with synthetic oil and can be used regularly.

G Force

 I am also trying to understand when the addtional zinc is needed.

If you have Hydraulic lifters you do not need put any addtional additives?
If you have roller rockers you do not need to add and additives?
Solid lifters do need to have addtional zinc added to ALL oils?

The guys at Valvoline reccomend their Synpower for high performance engines.


firefighter3931

Quote from: G Force on January 31, 2009, 12:57:39 AM
I am also trying to understand when the addtional zinc is needed.

If you have Hydraulic lifters you do not need put any addtional additives?
If you have roller rockers you do not need to add and additives?
Solid lifters do need to have addtional zinc added to ALL oils?

The guys at Valvoline reccomend their Synpower for high performance engines.




The EPA mandated lower zinc levels approx 2 years ago.....an emmissions thing. The zinc was supposedly causing premature catalytic converter failure and new engines now use roller cams so the zinc is no longer needed to keep the cam alive. Read the thread at the top of this page.....it's all explained in there.  ;)



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

firefighter3931

Quote from: Runner on January 30, 2009, 06:19:41 PM
Quote from: firefighter3931 on January 30, 2009, 10:13:03 AM
Unless your synthetic lube has an EP additive package you must add some sort of protection. Some oil companies claim that their synthetic formulations have enough EP goodies in them and recommend not adding any. Royal Purple Racing and Amsoil are two that come to and and are excellent choices.

I just run dino oil (VR1-20/50) with EOS and change it often enough to be safe.  ;)



Ron

 ron, im about as confused about what oil to run as i possibly can be.    ive been running vr1 with eos,  but ive recently read that the eos  doesnt have near the zinc in it that it once did.   now there is zddp plus, and that looks good. but i dont know if it is a good product or not. ive tryed to filter though all the junk on bob the oil guys sight and that confuses me even more, plus i dont know whos full of shit on the sight and whos not.    also from what ive read, the tearm "synthetic" is being used very loosly now days.     i really wish someone would come out with a good oil that is definalty flat tappet friendly with no additive required and market it as "muscle car oil" plus list the zddp package on the label.   ive read that brad penn is good stuff as well, but there again i just dont know.  


 im so confused about the state of oil now that ive decided to just run holy water in the crankcase, and only holy water that has been bleassed by the pope himself


Mike, have a look in the "warning" thread stickied at the top of this page.....there is a current VOA report for Brad Penn 20/50 that member Max62 shared with us. The Zn/Phos ppm levels are very good !  :2thumbs:

From what i understand, the new EOS was simply relabelled but is still the same formulation as before. ZZDP + is supposed to have even more EP goodies than EOS.



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs