68-70' Charger Rear Window/Glass: **UPDATE**

[Captain D]

Hi all,

I was just curious where you can purchase new repro rear window/glass for 68-70' Dodge Chargers, if at all possible. A friend and I both have 69' Chargers' and we were checking round' to see what's out there. So far, no luck at safelite and a few other places, but we're still looking. Thought that I would post here to see your experiences. Front windshields are pretty common, but not the rear windows. Any info on new rear glass/windows by chance?
Thank you for any responses!
Aaron

[Captain D]

Whoops, my bad, I just came across a link under a search and just found that Auto Metal Direct may still sell them at $349.95 a pop clear or tinted...please disregard this newbie, lol. On this subject while I'm here, I might as well go ahead and ask if anyone has purchased from this company before. If so, how are they to deal with? Or, know of any other place that sells the rear window any cheaper than this company in comparison?
Thanks again,
Aaron

[bill440rt]

Here ya go, if originality doesn't count:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-70-Dodge-Charger-Back-Glass-DB4051_W0QQitemZ230322139639QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33684QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Free shipping, to boot.

[69charger2002]

Here ya go, if originality doesn't count:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-70-Dodge-Charger-Back-Glass-DB4051_W0QQitemZ230322139639QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33684QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Free shipping, to boot.

WOW no wonder used ones don't bring 200-250 anymore. that's CHEAP! sweet
trav

[Captain D]

Hey cool, thank you for the link!  You're right, that's a sweet deal! I went ahead and called the company and was just curious to see if they sell the clear glass and what their price may be in comparison of others. As expected, they run well into the $300 range. Even though I was looking for the clear, this is "definitely" something worth considering!  Thank you again there Bill, and I've got it saved under my favorites to ponder over...

High regards,
Aaron

[Tilar]

Here ya go, if originality doesn't count:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-70-Dodge-Charger-Back-Glass-DB4051_W0QQitemZ230322139639QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33684QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Free shipping, to boot.

I'd be curious to know if it is the exact same glass... Thickness and all.

[bill440rt]

I ran across that auction right before seeing this thread. Even as I passed by it, I thought to myself, "self, that sounds like a slammin' deal."

Here ya go, if originality doesn't count:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-70-Dodge-Charger-Back-Glass-DB4051_W0QQitemZ230322139639QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33684QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Free shipping, to boot.

I'd be curious to know if it is the exact same glass... Thickness and all.

I'd be curious, too. Wouldn't hurt to contact them and ask. 

[Captain D]

It's certainly tempting for sure. So, just so that I know...glass with the greenish tint is not historically accurate/original from the factory, is that correct?

Also, we keep going back n' forth over the greenish tint because we're building a General Lee and that's why we were leaning towards the clear glass. The glass on those Chargers appeared to be clear, and besides, an orange car w/ green tinted glass makes us a lil' weary. We're just trying to balance not only General Lee specs, but also what's historically accurate/factory for the 69' Charger as a whole. BUT...I'm not ruling out this particular glass. These are just some things that we're thinking about. Just out of curiosity, if anyone happens to have any pics with this glass in their car, especially in a General Lee, that would be great to see a visual of the whole package  .

Thank you again for your time,
Aaron

[bill440rt]

Cars with A/C had the tinted glass. Non-A/C cars had clear.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Aaron, the green tint is very subtle...the only way you can really see it (in pictures anyway) is to put it on a white sheet.

FWIW I contacted PS Auto glass and questioned them on the glass.  They stated the glass is as thick or maybe less than the thickness of a credit card thinner.
I got them to sell me a package deal of green tinted rear glass,  2 tubes of urethane, a foam dam (like the glass installers used on bill440rt's car) for a whopping $175 shipped to my door.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,43619.0.html

[Mike DC]

Over the years, a lot of the automotive glass has been thinned out a little bit just because the grade of the materials has gotten better.  So don't assume it's for the worse any time you run across the issue.

[bill440rt]

Over the years, a lot of the automotive glass has been thinned out a little bit just because the grade of the materials has gotten better.  So don't assume it's for the worse any time you run across the issue.

I think Chris is worried about the glass thickness affecting the fitment of the moldings and trim more than anything else. A big complaint on this board from other members has been the newer, thinner windshields leaking around the gaskets.

[daytonalo]

d

[Charger-Bodie]

Just a tip , DO NOT use urethane to install backlight , if so it will look like horrible . I'm not a know it all , but I did install glass for 5 years way back and now own a resto shop , here is what I do . This goes without saying , make sure there is no rust in pinchweld area , make sure all clips are OK , brush on black pinchweld primer , install two new rubber blocks , clean glass , take 3/8 windshield butyl tape and lay it on inside of glass even with edge of glass and make sure seam is on bottom , the reason I tape glass is that when installed with mouldings , you will barely see tape and it will be nice and even . Go look at maybe some of your own cars or go to a show and look , 9 out of 10 times it will look like crap .

Larry , normally I would agree with you on this topic....BUT , If they use the foam sealant barrier ( foam dam) I think it will be just fine.

[daytonalo]

 .

[bill440rt]

Just a tip , DO NOT use urethane to install backlight , if so it will look like horrible . I'm not a know it all , but I did install glass for 5 years way back and now own a resto shop , here is what I do . This goes without saying , make sure there is no rust in pinchweld area , make sure all clips are OK , brush on black pinchweld primer , install two new rubber blocks , clean glass , take 3/8 windshield butyl tape and lay it on inside of glass even with edge of glass and make sure seam is on bottom , the reason I tape glass is that when installed with mouldings , you will barely see tape and it will be nice and even . Go look at maybe some of your own cars or go to a show and look , 9 out of 10 times it will look like crap .

Larry , normally I would agree with you on this topic....BUT , If they use the foam sealant barrier ( foam dam) I think it will be just fine.

Another agreement here. 
My glass guy applied the black primer to the edge of the glass and pinchweld,  MASKING OFF the area on the glass so the black primer is hidden by the chrome moldings. Foam dam was used, and the glass was installed with urethane.
Looks great to me.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Larry, why delete your posts?  Would love to see more input on this matter

IIRC 3/8" tape is too thick to use if you have a vinyl top.   I believe this is the case on my rear glass right now.  My "check mark" moldings butt up against the rear window moldings & are bent upwards because the glass is too far out of the channel.  I thought 5/16" was the more correct size to get the trim to fit correctly?

Looking at this pic you can see how my drivers side check molding is bent upwards....also  the fact that my chrome trim is flush with my roof line where Bill's & others I have seen is recessed about 1/8".   This difference would make the moldings fit better IMHO

[tan top]

Larry, why delete your posts?  Would love to see more input on this matter

IIRC 3/8" tape is too thick to use if you have a vinyl top.   I believe this is the case on my rear glass right now.  My "check mark" moldings butt up against the rear window moldings & are bent upwards because the glass is too far out of the channel.  I thought 5/16" was the more correct size to get the trim to fit correctly?

Looking at this pic you can see how my drivers side check molding is bent upwards....also  the fact that my chrome trim is flush with my roof line where Bill's & others I have seen is recessed about 1/8".   This difference would make the moldings fit better IMHO

i used 5/16  on mine .. but the contact patch of the glass in not all that big ..its sealed but think 3/8"s would of been better 

[Charger-Bodie]

Larry, why delete your posts?  Would love to see more input on this matter

IIRC 3/8" tape is too thick to use if you have a vinyl top.   I believe this is the case on my rear glass right now.  My "check mark" moldings butt up against the rear window moldings & are bent upwards because the glass is too far out of the channel.  I thought 5/16" was the more correct size to get the trim to fit correctly?

Looking at this pic you can see how my drivers side check molding is bent upwards....also  the fact that my chrome trim is flush with my roof line where Bill's & others I have seen is recessed about 1/8".   This difference would make the moldings fit better IMHO

i used 5/16  on mine .. but the contact patch of the glass in not all that big ..its sealed but think 3/8"s would of been better 

If you use the 5/16 square butyl tape , you get better contact. 3/8 is too big.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Well I got my glass today from PS Auto Glass.  Packed nicely with foam & bubble wrap in a box.  came with the 2 tubes of urethane & the foam dam.
Nice piece of green tinted glass thats scratch free
Make sure to check out my non-logo'd piece of glass at Carlisle

[tan top]

Larry, why delete your posts?  Would love to see more input on this matter

IIRC 3/8" tape is too thick to use if you have a vinyl top.   I believe this is the case on my rear glass right now.  My "check mark" moldings butt up against the rear window moldings & are bent upwards because the glass is too far out of the channel.  I thought 5/16" was the more correct size to get the trim to fit correctly?

Looking at this pic you can see how my drivers side check molding is bent upwards....also  the fact that my chrome trim is flush with my roof line where Bill's & others I have seen is recessed about 1/8".   This difference would make the moldings fit better IMHO

i used 5/16  on mine .. but the contact patch of the glass in not all that big ..its sealed but think 3/8"s would of been better 

If you use the 5/16 square butyl tape , you get better contact. 3/8 is too big.

oh right  i see thanks for the info  ..the butal tape i used was the 3m stuff  but was not square , it was round  once you lay the glass on  & apply pressure it squashes & seals but not the whole width of the tape

[bill440rt]

Well I got my glass today from PS Auto Glass.  Packed nicely with foam & bubble wrap in a box.  came with the 2 tubes of urethane & the foam dam.
Nice piece of green tinted glass thats scratch free
Make sure to check out my non-logo'd piece of glass at Carlisle

Awesome! 
Can I take your picture with you standing in front of your green tinted scratch-free glass? Maybe you can autograph it for me? 

[Captain D]

I also received my rear glass today as well, but I decided to go with the clear from Auto Metal Direct. I was a lil' nervous about the glass during transit, but it was well packed and the shipping was really fast too. Thank you guys for taking the time to answer my questions in this thread! 

High regards,
Aaron

[68r/t]

I,m up to this stage now,  but can someone please tell me what the foam dam is?
Thanks

[maxwellwedge]

Cars with A/C had the tinted glass. Non-A/C cars had clear.

You could get tinted or clear on A/C or non-A/C. Tinted was recommended on A/C cars but not mandatory.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I,m up to this stage now,  but can someone please tell me what the foam dam is?
Thanks

See the grayish band on the pinchweld in this pic of bill440rt's car?  Thats the piece of foam that holds the urethane back from entering/squishing into the car when you install the glass..

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Cars with A/C had the tinted glass. Non-A/C cars had clear.

You could get tinted or clear on A/C or non-A/C. Tinted was recommended on A/C cars but not mandatory.

I concur

[mopar_nut_440_6]

Cars with A/C had the tinted glass. Non-A/C cars had clear.

You could get tinted or clear on A/C or non-A/C. Tinted was recommended on A/C cars but not mandatory.

I have a 68 non AC car with complete tinted glass.

[68r/t]

I,m up to this stage now,  but can someone please tell me what the foam dam is?
Thanks

See the grayish band on the pinchweld in this pic of bill440rt's car?  Thats the piece of foam that holds the urethane back from entering/squishing into the car when you install the glass..

So the foam acts like a spacer, is the foam 5/16 thick or thicker and it squashes down?
I tried to get the black tape today but I can only get the thermal type where you stick the to 2 wires on a battery
to melt it. The guy said it is 5/16 but will probally press down a fair bit.
Is 5/16 the right thickness when installed or is there a bit of room to move?

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I dont think you use the butyl tape with the foam dam...it is used only with urethane adhesive....see Bill's original thread....


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,43619.0.html

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Here ya go, if originality doesn't count:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/68-70-Dodge-Charger-Back-Glass-DB4051_W0QQitemZ230322139639QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33684QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Free shipping, to boot.

I'd be curious to know if it is the exact same glass... Thickness and all.

Well heres a small update to this inquiry about the thickness of the PS Auto Glass repro vs. my original.....I'd say they were REAL close

Original first followed by repro

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Hey how'd that get on there?